PDA

View Full Version : Saving bulkheads



PH4
01-22-2008, 10:08 AM
The front bulkheads on both my IIAs are in good condition but am fighting a rust battle with them. I inspect them often and apply a waxoxyl type product on them twice a year. I am especially concerned with the areas along the doors where the weatherstripping is attached, however, also concerned with all other areas. I live on southeastern coast. Any advice or help appreciated.

In addition, If i have rust pop up underneath the paint, should I go ahead and cut it or grind it off? What best to use to fill or cover cut out? Thank you.

leafsprung
01-22-2008, 11:00 AM
galvanize them or move west

greenmeanie
01-22-2008, 11:03 AM
Well rust never goes away by itself so I say treat it as early as possible.

To prevent rust from occuring there are two methods:
Physical barriers.
Steel does not rust without coming into contact with an oxidising agent. If you remove rust treat the area with a rust inhibitor and then paint ASAP. Keeping the paint coating as intact as possible can only help. If you do not want to go as far as galvy I would at least look at stripping the bulkhead and applying some marine type undercoat.

Galvanic.
If rust is that invasive where you live I would consider going with the old school marine method of sacrificial protection. Obtain a block of zinc and connect it to your bulkhead and chassis. The zinc should corrode away before your bulkhead rusts as long as you keep the connections in good order. Inspect often and replace as necessary although I expect you will find a block of zinc to be quite expensive at today's prices.

It's one of the very few things that makes me glad I live in the desert - my chassis are in perfect condition after 37 years and I can reasonably expect them to still be here sometime next century.

Cheers
Gregor

PH4
01-22-2008, 11:10 AM
How well does the galvinized spray paint prevent rust and can I then prime over it and paint over primer?

leafsprung
01-22-2008, 11:18 AM
its slightly better than normal spray paint.

Jim-ME
01-22-2008, 11:31 AM
Ike,
It's pure and simple we need you on the east coast or perhaps in the middle of the country. Better still, if space wasn't an issue what would it cost to buy the equipment you need to make new bulkheads?
Jim

PH4
01-22-2008, 11:35 AM
Does anyone know of a place I can ship a good bulkhead with some minor spots to be repaired and entire bulkhead to be galvinized?

In addition, how much of a pain in the neck is it to remove a IIA bulkhead. Difficulty and time estimate?

Jim-ME
01-22-2008, 12:06 PM
I have never removed the bulkhead and I must admit the idea scares me to death but as far a sending it to someone I would not hesitate to have Ike Goss at Pangolin 4X4 do what you want. Check out his website http://www.pangolin4x4.com/ and look at Pabst Blue Rover project. That will give you an idea of his impressive skills. You could also contact Matt Brown at http://overlandengineering.com/. I have been told by someone in the Rover comminity that I completely trust that he does excellent work as well and will galvanize. Unfortunately, I have no personal experience with Matt but plan to in the next several months.
Jim

PH4
01-22-2008, 12:29 PM
Anyone know of a good site/document showing detailed removal and explanation of removal? I have the "Green Bible" but looking foe more detailed explanation.

KevinNY
01-22-2008, 12:29 PM
its slightly better than normal spray paint.

The ArcAir brand you buy at welding supply shops works well. I have a mount for a front steering damper welded to the frame and it remains rust free after 2 NE winters.

thixon
01-22-2008, 12:49 PM
Does anyone know of a place I can ship a good bulkhead with some minor spots to be repaired and entire bulkhead to be galvinized?

In addition, how much of a pain in the neck is it to remove a IIA bulkhead. Difficulty and time estimate?

Removing the bulkhead is not difficult. It can be done by one person, in an afternoon, while having a few beers. In a nutshell, some things to deal with are: removing bonnet and wings, releasing hydraulic lines (clutch and brakes, the pedal boxes can stay in place until after the bulkhead is free), unhooking and pulling wiring back through, unhooking steering linkage, windshield removal (to lighten the load), removal of doors, removal of floor pans and tunnel, removal of two large bolts in feet of bulkhead. I sure I missed some small details, but those are the basics.

On my current IIa project, I removed the bulkead and stipped all parts off, alone, in about 2.5 hours.

ajones
01-22-2008, 03:55 PM
I would concur with thixon, when I replaced my bulkhead I had my whole truck stripped down to rolling chassis and drivetrain in one day. Take pictures during removal to aid in replacement but don't sweat it.

Tim Smith
01-23-2008, 08:46 AM
I have to agree. Taking the bulkhead off is easy! Took me about a day with lots of oh-n'-ah moments and fiddling around with bits.

Unfortunately, that was about 4 years or so ago and I still haven't gotten around to putting it back on.
;)

leafsprung
01-23-2008, 05:34 PM
Its easy, but taking every tiny fixture,fastener, clip, grommit, bracket of the firewall is more time consuming.

greenmeanie
01-23-2008, 05:39 PM
Well gents, I am considering a LWB station wagon as a new project. Well the wife wants to add another wee 'un to the family so I have to add to my family to create more seating space - you know how it goes.

My question is how much should I expect to pay to galvy a bulkhead, chassis and B-pillars?

If I do it I would be looking to build something with a very long life and some upgrades to improve safety and reliability.

Cheers
Gregor

leafsprung
01-23-2008, 05:56 PM
It verys greatly from region to region. You best bet would be to call around to local galvanizers and ask.