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Jim-ME
01-22-2008, 04:42 PM
I am in the process of gathering the parts up for a complete swivel ball replacement. I am in a quandry as to if I should go ahead and replace all the bearings (assuming that the current ones are OK). I plan on all new parts from the SBs outward except for the SB housings and the hub spindles. I have no reason to suspect bad bearings but I have absolutely no idea how long they have been in use. Any opinions will be greatfully accepted.
Jim

jp-
01-22-2008, 04:59 PM
Replace the upper railco and definitely replace the lower bearing and race. I have never seen a good one. All the dirt gets trapped in the bottom bearing and it gets eaten alive. The bearing that supports the axle is generally ok. If it has flat spots on the rollers, replace it.

Daurie
01-22-2008, 05:43 PM
I have all the parts sitting and waiting on me to get motivated to do that same job. My swivel balls are pitted and leak. Did you buy all the parts as a kit? In addition to swivel balls I also got a swivel pin kit that came with new bearings, ralico, swivel pin, shims, all the seals....It's all been siting for a month. I still need to get a fish scale so I can measure the resistance during reassembly. Let us know how it goes so I'll know what to look forward to!

Jim-ME
01-22-2008, 05:49 PM
I picked up pieces from all over creation as finances, E-bay or gift certificates allowed. Couldn't swing a kit all at once. I have the raicos and lower bearings but was wondering about the axle support bearing and the hub bearings. Thanks guys. I think we are all on the same page.
Jim

Mercedesrover
01-22-2008, 05:56 PM
I've got a really nice set of swivels on Ebay right now, if you haven't already bought them. They have new Railco bushings and axle bearings in them.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Series-Land-Rover-swivel-balls-used-Series-II-IIA-III_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ42609QQihZ002QQitem Z120213682586QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Jim

Jim-ME
01-22-2008, 06:26 PM
Thanks Jim I saw them and kicked myself for not waiting longer to buy replacments. I finally realised that you live in my old home state. Lucky you.
Jim

Mercedesrover
01-22-2008, 06:28 PM
I finally realised that you live in my old home state. Lucky you.
Jim

Funny...We're thinking about moving to Maine!

jim

Jim-ME
01-22-2008, 06:33 PM
Was being scarstic. If you like fewer people, higher taxes, mud season instead of spring and long winters Maine's the place to be. Wouldn't live anywhere else on the east coast.
Jim

chester rides again
01-22-2008, 07:51 PM
Jim - You're selling my balls!!!:eek:

You're right they have under 200 miles on them, one trip from vt to southern ny. Purchased from our hosts, and gently installed...

Glad to see the truck is serving you well - it looks like you are doing great work.

Jeff

Mercedesrover
01-22-2008, 08:12 PM
Hey Jeff!

Ya know, I took those axles apart last summer and put all the pieces in boxes. When I was making my list of new parts for the rebuild I didn't remember how good these were and ordered new ones. Well, I'm putting the axles back together this week and openend the boxes again to find a pair of perfect swivel balls. I'm a dummy. Anyway, I don't need two sets so these are up for sale.

Thanks for the word confirming their condition.

Gotta get up there and see your new truck. Say hi to your wife and kids for me and hope all is well up there. Your old 109 is coming along well and I'll come up there and see you when it's done. Here's a link to some pictures of its progress: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8169

Jim

singingcamel
01-23-2008, 10:18 AM
I would also , obviously replace the inner and outer bearings and races in the drive assymbly as well. railco bush and waffer as mentioned.
one problem that i encounter is the wheel stud comes out with the nut due to over zealous tightening by some folks, breaking the weld in back of the stud, be prepared for this..
Also take a hard look at your axle spines for wear and twist,also look at your drive phalanges for wear..don't forget the adjust the free play in the stearing, setting thhe swivel pin play as mentioned in the manual..A fish scale works fine..
its a fun job (really) have fun.
Oh put the swivel pin seal on before you mount the swivel pin..

Jim-ME
01-23-2008, 02:30 PM
Thanks Marc! Thanks to our hosts I have a new pair of S3 hubs that will finally match the S3 rearend I had to put in. Only 2 new brake backer plates, a new set of front drums, and all new fasteners left to go before I tackle the job.
Jim

TJR
01-23-2008, 09:30 PM
Hello Jim, I did this swap a while back on my never ending project SIII and overall it was quite easy. I also collected new parts before I began. I recall the inner axle support bearing seemed like overkill any were in good shape on my axle, They were easy to change out and replace. The inner race for the bearing is pressed onto the axle shaft. I was able to easly seperate them w/ a shop press and bearing splitter. OR If you cut a narrow slot in the old race nearly all the way through w/ a die grinder and cut off wheel, you can usually split the race w/a cold chisel and a hammer blow. They key is to not nick the shaft. BTW, the old pieces they make great "drivers" for pressing on the new one, and can be slid of quite easily if the slot is there.
Also.. I didn;t bother to reuse the 6 bolts that hold on the swivel ball. I replaced them w/ grade 8 fine thread bolts and locking nuts from the local hardware store. 3/8-24 if I recall right. they fit perfect.

I do recall I may have snapped of a small bolt that hold th ewiper seal into the knuckle. With some local heat I was able to get it out.

Now is a good time to check your u-joints,
You also may want to change out the spindle seal/bearing distance pieces since they get grooved.

pressing the bearing race and bushing into the ball was a bit akward, but manangable. I supported below each flange as I did it.

the fish scale method worked well.

send my your email address and I can send a few pics of the project in this stage. trickard a t metrocast d ot net

greenmeanie
01-24-2008, 09:03 AM
For those who replace bearings you have to be careful how you load the races to prevent damage, especially with ball bearings. As th efit of the race onto the shaft is so light a very easy installation method is to warm the baearing up in an oven (Waiting until your wife has left for the day is a wise idea.) set at its lowest setting. Leave the bearing in there for about 1/2 an hour to heat soak and expand. It should then literally drop onto the shaft.

My question is about those seal/bearing distance pieces. I bought new half shafts and new distance pieces. There was no way pressing or heating that they were going on that shaft. Is there a trick or have I somehow got the wrong mix of parts.?

Cheers
Gregor

Mercedesrover
01-24-2008, 10:49 AM
The I.D. of the distance piece, seal race and bearing race is 1.3735"
The O.D of the axle shaft is 1.3740"
This makes for a good interferance fit and the should press together pretty easily. Check everything for the proper measurments...Maybe they sent you a couple of wrong parts.

greenmeanie
01-24-2008, 12:17 PM
So that would be Land Rover genuine parts for the loss then! I had thought something was out of tolerance so I'll measure everything and try again. I'd like to have them built up and on the shelf for the next time I'm in there.

Cheers
Gregor