2.25 engine options

[PH4]

I would appreciate any and all advice in regards to experience with different suppliers of 2.25 rebuilds. The different options I am looking at are RN,BP, DAP, and any others suggested to me.

Also, what compression and what is signifigance between 3 bearing vs. 5 bearing. In addition any suggested upgrades "while I am at it"? Currently have a Zenith, keep?

[PH4]

Let me add Turner engines to the mix.

[yorker]

Also, what compression and what is signifigance between 3 bearing vs. 5 bearing. In addition any suggested upgrades "while I am at it"? Currently have a Zenith, keep?

The 5 bearing engines were the later engines and the bearings refer to the ones the crank shaft runs on, the 5 bearings offer more support for the crank. If given the choice between the two I'd choose 5 bearing assuming the price was the same or close to it.

[TeriAnn]

I would appreciate any and all advice in regards to experience with different suppliers of 2.25 rebuilds. The different options I am looking at are RN,BP, DAP, and any others suggested to me.
I'm sure each of these companies can provide you with a very high quality rebuilt engine. I doubt if anyone could find any difference in the quality of a pure stock remanufactured engine offered by any of these companies, or Turner for that matter. Where you start seeing differences is when you order "performance" engines.

Since the quality of each company's remanufactured engine is excellent, I would pay more attention to warranty and the cost getting the engine home. Just in case there is a problem, you don't want to have to ship the engine to the UK for possible warranty work then pay to have it returned to you. Also US remanufactured engines are likely to provide more for your dollar spent, since you are not paying for labour in pounds plus the shipping across the Atlantic. I'd likely pick the source closest to my home to keep shipping costs down. You might save a bundle if you can pick up the engine in person and drive it home.

Compare warranty & shipping costs.


Also, what compression and what is signifigance between 3 bearing vs. 5 bearing. In addition any suggested upgrades "while I am at it"? Currently have a Zenith, keep?
The Land Rover petrol and diesel engines shared the same block design. When Rover wanted to offer a turbo diesel they had to strengthen the bottom end. So the petrol version got 5 main bearings & the extra bottom end strength because the 2.25L turbo diesel needed it. I don't see any functional advantage to having a 5 main 2.25L petrol engine over a 3 main 2.25L engine unless you are planing on trying a turbo.

The five main bearing 2.25L engine was only used between 1980 and 1985. In 1985 the 2.5L five main engine was introduced. This engine is basically a stroked 2.25L main engine with more bottom end torque. If the price was right I would go for a complete 2.5L petrol over a 2.25L petrol.

The 2.5L was in production between 1985 and 1992 when the 200tdi was introduced. The 200tdi was such a superior engine that petrol four cylinder engines were discontinued.

Zenith? They are good carbs. If it is in good condition I recommend keeping it if you are going for a standard remanufactured engine. If you are going for a performance remanufactured engine I suggest a B series Rochester.

[PH4]

Is now the time to consider maybe putting in a tdi? I never thought I would but in looking at costs might not be that much different. Is there a tdi that will drop stright in without having to cut or move radiator?

Also, does anyone here have/had a Turner 2.25 and their experience?

[n6zt]

Also, consider the Robert Davis 3 litre engine. It is a wonderful replacement.

[n6zt]

Here is the link about the RD conversion.
http://www.lrfaq.org/Series/FAQ.S.options.RDconversion.html

[ajones]

TeriAnn,
Just curious but if someone had a 2.25 3 Main, would it be possible/feasible to stroke it by using the 2.5L connecting rods/crank, or would this be too much for the engine?
thanks

[TeriAnn]

TeriAnn,
Just curious but if someone had a 2.25 3 Main, would it be possible/feasible to stroke it by using the 2.5L connecting rods/crank, or would this be too much for the engine?
thanks

The 2.5L crank is a five main crank.

[TeriAnn]

Is now the time to consider maybe putting in a tdi? I never thought I would but in looking at costs might not be that much different. Is there a tdi that will drop stright in without having to cut or move radiator?


The 200tdi will bolt to a 4 cyl Series bell housing, with a stud pulled. You can use the stock Series radiator if you don't use the turbo.

Here's an introductory web page:

http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/200tdiconversionIntro.htm

The 300tdi had a different bell housing pattern and a different set of fit issues.

[ajones]

Hmm I guess I deserve a dope slap for that one! What about the connecting rods? Are they any shorter thus allowing for slightly larger displacement?

[Jim-ME]

Although I really want a 2.5 NAD if I were (and I probably will) to stay with a petrol engine I would definitely get a 2.5 over the 2.25. British Pacific offers 2.25 performance engines although lists no prices. I'd be tempted to talk to them and see if they could build you a 2.5. I'll bet you could get one of the rebuilders/restorers to build you one if you can't find one any other way.
Jim

[leafsprung]

Any Machine shop worth a salt can rebuild your 2.25 to the same tolerances for far less than you would spend on any of these rebuilds . . .

[Jim-ME]

Good point! The rebuilds are simply a source of convienence and less down time. Do you feel the same about Series 2/2a transmissions and transfers?
Jim

[leafsprung]

A good local transmission shop can rebuild these very simple transmissions, however, a careful shadetree mechanic (ie the average enthusiast) can rebuild a rover transmission just as well. This isnt rocket science. You can pick up a core 2.25 or rover trans for almost nothing, rebuild them in your spare times and swap them in with little down time. Its cheap, its easy and you learn a ton about your rover in the process.

[TeriAnn]

British Pacific offers 2.25 performance engines although lists no prices. I'd be tempted to talk to them and see if they could build you a 2.5. I'll bet you could get one of the rebuilders/restorers to build you one if you can't find one any other way.
Jim
No prices on the performance remanufactured engines because those are built to order and the buyer specifies what they want done to the engine. Its not a one size fits all kind of thing.

I doub't if BP has any 2.5L or five main 2.25L core engines as those were never sold in the States and no one really asks for them. I have no idea if the five main 2.25L block will accept the 2.5L crank. They can bore an engine out to increase displacement if you request but you can't put a five main crank into a three main engine.

The real advantage of the 2.5 is the longer crank ... and the cam (which fits the 2.25 engine) ... and the nifty spin on oil filter adapter ... and the dual throat weber (different from the after market 2 barrel Weber)

You reallly want to start with a 2.5L engine core if you want to end up with a remanufactured 2.5L engine

[Jeff Aronson]

I just want to note that I'm running a Rovers North rebuilt engine in my '66 II-A. The rebuild was installed sometime in 1995. It now has over 300,000 miles on it and it is still quite sound. My oil consumption is still around 800-1000 miles per quart; when the engine was new, it used no oil between 3,000 mile oil changes.

I also know of an enthusiast in Wyoming who bought a motor from Rovers North a few years ago and installed it in his II-A. Not long after, he drove the Rover from Wyoming to Maine, and then to college in Vermont.

I know there are other sources of rebuilt engines but I have been very happy with the engine I purchased from Rovers North.

Jeff

[PH4]

Jeff, I agree that RN has good quality parts and is the most helpful by far sales staff and they are definitely in the mix, however, they are only offering one type of engine at this time, standard rebuild with all ancillaries, and I already have mostly new ancillaries and want a little more BHP than the standard engine.

[leafsprung]

theres not much point in hopping up the rover engine. If you need power convert, theres not much point in spending money on a "performance" rover engine. It hasnt got any performance to offer.

[thixon]

Head and bottom end can be rebuilt at just about any decent machine shop. It will be cheaper to have them rebuild the bottom end and the head than it will to order already rebuilt from any of the sources you've listed.

Forget the performance rebuilds. There is not enough of a noticeable difference (if any at all) to justify the extra expense. Anyone who says there is, is saying so to make themselves feel better about the money they wasted, or is the one trying to sell the performance rebuild. (sorry guys, its the truth).

If you want the simplest/cheapest route to getting the truck back on the road, visit your local machine shop. It'll be done quicker than you think. (Like others have already adivsed).

If you're after more performace, and are up for a project/greater expense, go for the swap of your choice.

As for carbs, in my experience, Zeniths are great, and webers (1 barrel, not the 2) are great.

Good luck.

[Eric W S]

Jeff, I agree that RN has good quality parts and is the most helpful by far sales staff and they are definitely in the mix, however, they are only offering one type of engine at this time, standard rebuild with all ancillaries, and I already have mostly new ancillaries and want a little more BHP than the standard engine.

Ya better pull the trigger if your looking at a RN engine. They have one complete (turn-key) engine in stock. But it might be spoken for. I wasn't interested in it but thought I'd pass it on.

EwS