Best bushings?

[Paul Rossmann]

I am contemplateing replacing my spring (not parabolic) bushings in the near future. Any recommendations? I do mostly road (and a little trail) driving. Thanks.

[KingSlug]

The stock ones are nice and will probably last another 30 years. If you do go poly I would suggest greaseable bolts ($$) from GBR or elsewhere.

Jared

[TeriAnn]

The stock ones are nice and will probably last another 30 years. If you do go poly I would suggest greaseable bolts ($$) from GBR or elsewhere.
The movement on a stock Land Rover (metalastic) bushing is the 3/16 inch thick vulcanised rubber stretching. Metalastic bushings are known as bound bushings because the rubber is bound to both the inner and outer sleeves and the only movement is the rubber stretching. This is why when you convert to an unbound bushing (poly bushing), you will increase the suspension travel/articulation by 10% or so. You will also improve the ride quality with unbound bushings especially on rougher roads because a bound bushing starts to decelerate the suspension movement when you start to approach the elastic limit of the rubber.

Poly bushings can not stand heat well. They become soft and disintegrate. Standard poly bushings usually comes with a lube, but that lube doesn't last all that long before you hearing the standard dry poly bushing suspension squeak. Washboard roads case nearly constant motion of the poly bushings and the friction from dry moving bushings builds up heat ... and they die.

The theory behind greaseable poly bushings is that you can easily regrease them without any disassembly. So if you remember to lube them you don't get suspension squeaks and the friction stays low enough that the bushings don't come apart from excess heat. Neat huh!


Here's some pictures of the greasable poly bushings that Great Basin Rovers sells:



http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/GRdetailPics/polybushings.jpg


http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/GRdetailPics/polybushTube.jpg

http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/GRdetailPics/polybushEnd.jpg

:thumb-up::thumb-up::thumb-up::thumb-up:

[Mercedesrover]

Sasquatch runs poly bushings in his truck. So do Martian men, the jolly green giant, and most Republicans looking out for the common man.

If there’s on thing that doesn’t seem to fail on Series trucks, it’s the spring bushings. And if I’ve seen one aftermarket part that doesn’t seem to live up to its promises, it’s poly bushings. I was following a RRC once that had new blue poly bushings in his truck and after 30 miles in the Anza-Borrego desert all four of them had self-destructed. He looked like Hansel and Gretel leaving a trail of blue bread crumbs behind him.

Jared is right….The originals lasted 30 years, the replacements should too. Stick with OE in this case.

Sorry TeriAnn, I disagree with you on this one.

[S11A]

I have a set of nylatron (similar to poly) on the track/autox car, and the manufacturer has extensive experience with these on that sort of vehicle, since around '01. They advise that they be lubricated every 1,500 miles. And the nylatron is supposed to be a bit less sensitive to poor lubrication than regular poly.

You can buy grease zerks and drill and tap many of the mounts these are fitted into, but I am not sure if all of them on a Series truck can be.

[TeriAnn]

I was about to say that my rubber bushings were mostly disentigrated and the inner steel tubes were loose, but then I remembered my stock frame bushing were over 30 years old when I replaced them in the early 90's.


Sorry TeriAnn, I disagree with you on this one.

No problem. Not the first time & likely not the last. I respect your opinions and know there is no single answer that covers all aspects of the question.

Besides life would be way too boring if everyone were to agree with everyone else.

I do agree that stock bushings should provide the longest service life though. I just want a bit more movement out of mine.

[I Leak Oil]

For me it's a toss up. I really don't think I'd notice any difference in ride quality but I think I'd rather change 50 sets of poly bushings than go through the hell of changing the stock ones on a 40 year old vehicle again.
Jason T.

[Mercedesrover]

I just want a bit more movement out of mine.

Articulation is for trucks without lockers! :)

[yorker]

For me it's a toss up. I really don't think I'd notice any difference in ride quality but I think I'd rather change 50 sets of poly bushings than go through the hell of changing the stock ones on a 40 year old vehicle again.
Jason T.

IDK- My first set had lasted from 1965 to 1997- they outlasted the first frame they were in! That isn't too bad a record for the stock bushings.

[leafsprung]

I dont think the quality of the replacement rubber bushings is as good as the originals Ive had several fail within a short period of time (2-3 months) . And had a set of RM rubber spring bushings fail in a matter of hours in moab. Since then Ive jumped onto the poly-bushing bandwagon. Mostly due to ease of replacement. I can replace a poly bushing in 20 minutes without firing up a torch or sawsall. I could even do it on the trail if need be. If you get quality poly bushings, they last a good while. I dont mind replacing them, but I hate replacing the rubber ones.



Articulation is for trucks without lockers!

Tell that to this guy:

http://www.rockymountainmoggers.com/pix/jonathancorder02.jpg

[TeriAnn]

Articulation is for trucks without lockers! :)

I find more personal satisfaction in making it through without engaging the locker.

I reserve mine for when I think I otherwise might break something or might fail a climb with a treacherous back path or when I get stuck.

Hurry up & get the bulkhead on your 109 project! I want to see more pictures!!

Please ...:o

[yorker]

I dont think the quality of the replacement rubber bushings is as good as the originals Ive had several fail within a short period of time (2-3 months) .

That may well be who knows how the composition of the rubber compares- ground level zone might raise hell with them now too. I've had tires that were 30 years old and barely weather checked but had newer tires check after less then 10 years.

Don't you have one of those ball joint removers? I used one of them and a 3/4" impact with a pretty good degree of success. http://inpcars.com/ball-joint-and-tie-rod-tools/otctoolsequipmentspx-q.jpg

[leafsprung]

They are great at wedging the bushings in the frame.

[KingSlug]

Has anyone used the Bushwaka bushing replacement tool from DingoCroft? I have often thought of buying one then renting it out to series owner to spread the cost and reduce the anguish.

Jared

Part number: ZZBSWK01
Application: Series I, II, IIA & III, SWB and LWB. http://www.dingocroft.co.uk/Tools%20and%20Equipment/images/bushwaka.gif
N.B. non-specific photo - BSWK01 comprises 10 separate parts. Description: http://www.dingocroft.co.uk/Tools%20and%20Equipment/images/wakalogo.gifis a tool specifically designed to remove and insert "metalastik" type suspension bushes, without the aid of a press, in one quick and easy operation. It is ideal for all types of workshop from Army posts to Ambulance Services, Land Rover main Dealers to Local Specialists, The Royal Mail to Hebridean Quarries.
Fast one man operation, with component still in situ, the new bush pushes out the old one whilst being inserted.

[yorker]

They are great at wedging the bushings in the frame.

They buzzed them out pretty good for me- I never had them wedge in but you've no doubt done far more than I have. It worked better than burning/sawing and farting around like that for me.

[Mercedesrover]

Don't you have one of those ball joint removers? I used one of them and a 3/4" impact with a pretty good degree of success.

You can use a press for driving the old center out if you don't feel like contracting cancer whiltst burning them with a torch. Be careful driving them in with one.

Freeze the bushing, warm the frame and drive them in with a 3lb. hammer.

This ol' hammer killed John Henry, Can't kill me. Can't kill me.

[Paul Rossmann]

Thanks for all the input. Sounds like its just a matter of if you want to "maintain" the poly bushings and/or if you need the articulation. Most of my driving is on the roads and through fields and woods, so I dont need a great deal of travel. You have to look for hills and boulders in coastal South Carolina.

The last set I replaced, however wasnt as difficult as discussed on this forum. I got a short length of iron pipe the same diameter as the bushing and capped one end (the end I hit with a hammer). I heated the general area with a propane torch and sprayed it with WD40 while hot, so that as it cooled it would pull the WD into and around the bushing. I might have been lucky, but they drove right out. By "right out," I mean 15-20 minutes each.

[luckyjoe]

Ike,

Those are interesting comments.

WRT the standard metalastik bushing being under 'tension', are the poly bushes essentially 'free'? And articulation aside, how does this affect the overall ride?

Regards,

[leafsprung]

Dont think there is a vast difference in ride quality. Polys might have a slight edge . . .

[jp-]

I dont think the quality of the replacement rubber bushings is as good as the originals Ive had several fail within a short period of time (2-3 months) . And had a set of RM rubber spring bushings fail in a matter of hours in moab. Since then Ive jumped onto the poly-bushing bandwagon. Mostly due to ease of replacement. I can replace a poly bushing in 20 minutes without firing up a torch or sawsall. I could even do it on the trail if need be. If you get quality poly bushings, they last a good while. I dont mind replacing them, but I hate replacing the rubber ones.



+1

Count me in on those comments. The rubber quality of many aftermarket Rover parts has gone straight in the toilet. Motor and trans mounts are terrible! I think my 30 year old ones were in better shape than my new ones after 1 year.

I have also tried a puller on my old metal bushings only to have them wedge tighter. Never again. I'll change the polys every two years over the Rover's every 10 (even less with the newer rubber).

[luckyjoe]

Do these greaseable poly's replace the frame bushings only, or the spring (eye) bushings too?

Regards,

[TeriAnn]

Do these greaseable poly's replace the frame bushings only, or the spring (eye) bushings too?


Both frame and spring bushings are available through Great Basin Rovers.

[Alaska Mike]

I just got a set of greaseable polys for my Series III from Great Basin Rovers. I saved a little money (like $50) by buying an "irregular set" from them that has coarse threads instead of fine. A little drill bit work and it's done. I can't say how well they ride, since my Rover is far from being mobile. I will say after removing the stock ones, I'd rather replace the poly bushings periodically.