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cthulhu
03-09-2008, 04:54 PM
I just started having a similar issue. Here is what I have...

I had the ignition switch fail...
I ordered a new one from RN, it takes a week or so to arrive, in that time, the battery dies.
I change the ignition switch over, charge the battery and it works great.

Now, over night, the battery dies and when cold / cool the truck idles fine, but when fully warm, it will idle for about a minute, then start to die, recover, stumble, recover ( or die ), then stumble and die...

Weirdness, I did not have any problems with the idle OR the battery before the ignition switch went bad, while the ignition switch was failing ( a little jiggle behind the dash would start it ) there were no problems...

Oh I got a nail in a tire during all of this, but I am pretty sure that is not related :-)

I also have a leaking Clutch Master Cylinder, I already have the parts and a shop manual, but I was wondering if anyone had any tips / tricks to make the job easier?

Thanks in advance,

Alan

Guinness
03-10-2008, 09:43 PM
Alan,

Isn't Land Rover ownership a joy?! I can't comment on the ignition problems, however I replaced my clutch hydraulics, i.e. MC, SC and flex hose last fall. I would recommend replacing all of the clutch hydraulics while you are at it. Soak/spray all fittings with Liquid Wrench. The MC is a PITA to replace. I ended up removing the hood and the P/S fender skin to remove the clutch box. The problem was the sealant between the clutch box and the footwell made it difficult to remove. Once the clutch box is free, replacing the MC is easy. Rather than using sealant to seal the clutch box to the footwell, I used camper-seal tape (use to seal truck caps), that way it will be easy to remove next time. The SC is easy to replace, just be careful not to pull the piston out of the throw-out bearing...and only use Castrol GT LMA brake fluid...

cthulhu
03-13-2008, 12:58 PM
OK, so a new development. I was talking to a friend of mine and he suggested, charging the battery and disconnecting it over night and checking it in the morning.

Which is what I did and it was still fully charged, ok so, now there goes the easy answer. Now the difficult one.

What is draining the battery, it has started to get worse. I used to be able to drive it to work, park it for a few hours and drive it home, I did that yesterday and I had to jump it.

Any ideas on how to trouble shoot this is greatly appreciated!

msggunny
03-13-2008, 03:13 PM
What kind of battery do you have?

Did you put the ignition cylinder in correctly?

Did you put any new accessories on before or after the ignition problem?

After you charged and restarted the vehicle, did you drive it around long enough to make sure the battery got fully charged?

Is your alternator puting out juice?

cthulhu
03-13-2008, 04:59 PM
What kind of battery do you have? Some kind I got while living in New Zealand - ~2 years old

Did you put the ignition cylinder in correctly? - I think so

Did you put any new accessories on before or after the ignition problem? - No

After you charged and restarted the vehicle, did you drive it around long enough to make sure the battery got fully charged? - Yes

Is your alternator putting out juice? - Yes, otherwise when I drove it, it would not charge the battery to restart. If I drive the car even a short distance, say 2-3 miles, the car will restart reliably. If it sits more than a couple of hours, it dies.

Crap, I wonder if I have switched two wires on the ignition switch. I will have to make sure, it only has 4 wires and a plug. Thanks for the thoughts.

cthulhu
03-19-2008, 02:36 PM
YAY another problem!!

I was driving home last night and suddenly, she started to over heat... I recently ( like in december ) replaced the water pump and I think I burped the coolant system completely. There is water in the resevoir, but it was not as hot as the gauge said it was and there was very little pressure in the resevoir when I cracked the cap. Is that normal?

Thanks,

Alan

cthulhu
03-19-2008, 03:25 PM
Here is something else, on the drivers side rear of the valve cover is a little black plastic "thing" ( cover with a grid of holes in it ). I noticed that it would turn when I bumped it and that it was pretty crusty, so I popped the cover off. It was sitting on a round pedestal, but it was completely crusted up, I then replaced the cover. I was thinking of popping the plastic cap back off and using a shop vac and a toothbrush to clean it, then I decided to ask first...what the heck is that thing!

Thanks in advance,

Alan

TSR53
03-19-2008, 04:00 PM
1994-95, 97 Defender 90 NAS 3.9 litre V8 valve cover breather. Two parts are required for replacement. RNM091 Cap and RNM026 Filter Element.

http://c7716.r16.cf2.rackcdn.com/RN-Forum/users/TSR53/D90-engine-pcv-vent.jpg

RNM091 CAP - Valve Cover Breather V8 (http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-3303-cap-vc-breather-v-8.aspx)

RNM026 FILTER ELEMENT - VALVE COVER V-8 (http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-3304-filter-element-valve-cover-v-8.aspx)

http://www.roversnorth.com/store/images/Product/large/RNM091.jpg

cthulhu
03-19-2008, 04:09 PM
Wow that engine compartment looks familier! Sooo there is supposed to be a filter under that cap?! Mine had nothing but crusty scrunge. I guess I will need to have that, what is it made of, can I get something at a local place?

Any other quick hits of wisdom for the other problems I am having?

Thanks for the quick response!

Alan