Swivel Rebuild

[Jim-ME]

I am in the process of replacing both swivel balls because they leak due to corrosion. I want to have everything on hand before I start and will be pre-assembling as much as possible to save lift time. I have several questions.
1. How can you tell the left swivel pin housing from the right swivel pin housing?
2. I know that the axle half shaft roller bearing presses into the axle housing end of the swivel ball. The RN cat. referrs to a retainer collar for the bearing and a bearing distance piece. Are these parts mounted on the axle half shaft or do they get pressed into the swivel ball with the bearing?
Thanks,
Jim

[I Leak Oil]

Jim,
The fill plug always faces to the rear of the vehicle. That's how you can tell left from right. The bearing race and collar press on to the inner axle shaft. You'll need to be creative to get the old ones off and the new ones on unless you have the "right" tools. If you replace the bearing you MUST replace the race that came with it. Don't chicken out and use the old race, it may not fit the new bearing.
Jason T.

[singingcamel]

Jim,
you will have to press in the new railco bushes on the top , as far as left and right swivel pins , just match up the new to the old, they are different.
I have a swivel pin rebuild on my site, have a look, any questions call me. Its fun to do. You can match the bearings locally, timkins are easy to find here. don't forget the races !
You will also need to press in new races along with the bearings.lower pin only.
don't forget to look closely at the hub seals races on the spindle, I would change these while you doing this job.
Also take a look at the inner and outer bearings and races repack , replace as necessary. goood luck and keep it fun.

[Jim-ME]

I've done the races on the swivel balls and the new hubs (S3 so that the rear lugs are the same as the fronts) so its only the half shaft bearings that I am concerned about at this point. Guess that I won't know for sure what condition they are in in until I take the old swivel balls off. Guess that I'll order new bearings, and the pieces that go on the half shafts to be on the safe side. I can always return them if I need to. I'm sure I'll have more questions as it get closer to actually doing the swap. My thanks to you both.
Jim

[greenmeanie]

When you're pressing in the swivel pin bush and bearig race make sure you put a block to support from top to bottom inside the swivel housing. When you start dealing with large presses it is quite easy to deform the housing.

I bought a new set of half shafts a while ago. I also ordered the extra pieces to go on the half shaft. I had a go at putting one on by heating and cooling but failed. I took them to a machine shop and they tried and failed with a 30 ton press. What is the trick with these things?

Cheers
Gregor

[leafsprung]

The swivel housings are interchangeable. When doing disc conversions I frequently swap them to put the fill plug at the front makes it a lot easier than fishing around under the caliper:

http://www.pangolin4x4.com/pangolin4x4/projects/pbr/images/frontaxle2.jpg

[I Leak Oil]

The swivel housings are interchangeable. When doing disc conversions I frequently swap them to put the fill plug at the front makes it a lot easier than fishing around under the caliper:

http://www.pangolin4x4.com/pangolin4x4/projects/pbr/images/frontaxle2.jpg

I DID NOT KNOW THAT! That's a great piece of info. Wish I knew that when I did my disc conversion because as you pointed out it is a pain in the ..... to get to the fill plug.
Jason T.

[leafsprung]

the one thing you have to do is machine a recess in the steering arm for the drain plug

[I Leak Oil]

Is that because the drain plug comes out at an angle?
Jason T.

[leafsprung]

http://www.pangolin4x4.com/pangolin4x4/projects/pbr/images/steeringarm.jpghttp://www.pangolin4x4.com/pangolin4x4/projects/pbr/images/plugdone.jpg