Series III steering box adjustments

[Aztec Rover]

Hi guys,

Just joined today and have a quick question.

Is there any way to adjust the steering box on my series III?
I am assuming its the steering box anyway?
There doesen't seem to be much play in it but my truck wanders all over the road when above 40mph.

Thanks,

[LaneRover]

Hi guys,

Just joined today and have a quick question.

Is there any way to adjust the steering box on my series III?
I am assuming its the steering box anyway?
There doesen't seem to be much play in it but my truck wanders all over the road when above 40mph.

Thanks,

Define 'Wandering', though the series steering is perfectly good it has at times been described as 'vague at best' when compared to modern cars. Before adjusting the steering box I would take a look at the balljoints. If those are 'past due' you could have wandering without feeling any play in the steering wheel especially if other parts are a little stiff from not being used much.

There is a bolt that allows you to adjust the steering box of a Rover but if you don't feel much play now I would doubt that it is the box itself.

Brent

[Bostonian1976]

mine was wandering a lot when I first got it because the bolts to the steering column where it meets up with the frame were coming completely loose and the column was flexing without the support. I'm lucky I didn't get into an accident because, being new to Rovers at the time, I thought it was 'normal'. Steering should be nice and tight when everything is properly adjusted...

[Aztec Rover]

Define 'Wandering',

By wandering I mean it is near impossible to keep in a straight line without correcting from left to right. I got stopped the other night as the cop thought I was drunk due to my weaving along the road.

[Bostonian1976]

By wandering I mean it is near impossible to keep in a straight line without correcting from left to right. I got stopped the other night as the cop thought I was drunk due to my weaving along the road.

that's not right. Let me see if I can dig up my old thread that helped out a lot...

[Bostonian1976]

hmm looks like it got lost when the forum converted to the vbulletin board.

anyway - just follow the steering assembly until you end at the wheels. Check all linkages and connections along the way (there are quite a few). The first thing to check for is flex in the steering column itself due to loose connections - just turn the wheel back and forth while looking through the open hood - if you see the steering column itself moving back and forth, you've found your problem. If not - keep going - you will find the loose connection (it should be obvious with a little turning of the wheel). Fix it though - it can make for dangerous driving...not to mention unpleasant

[Aztec Rover]

Bostonian1976,

Thanks bud.

[greenmeanie]

Find a willing assistant to saw the steering wheel back and forth and lets get dirty. Things to check on your steering:
1. Steering box to frame mounting as described above. This is pretty obvious if you grab it with your hand. or just try and tighten the fasteners. Same should apply for the bulkhead mountings.
2. Ball joints. Again fairly standard. look for one bar moving before the next starts kind of thing. Grab and pull and check for free play. Don't forget the fore and aft arm from the steering box to the steering relay. While your there add some oil to the relay as most people forget it on their regular maintenance schedule.
3. The steering relay. Check for free play in the shaft. I found this on my new 109 on Saturday and it explained the huge dead spot in the steering.
4. Check that the upper and lower steering arms are properly clamped to their splined shafts on the relay.
5. Bent steering arms. These can affect tracking which can make you directionally instable and wear out your tyres.
6. Swivel pin preload. Jack her up and pivot the wheel back and forth and feel for looseness. If you want to do it properly you can pull the wheel and pop the ball joint and I think take the swivel seal off and check the preload with a spring balance. Loose swivels usually manifest themselves as chronic shimmy when you go over a bump.
7. Tyres. A good radial AT tyre will track a lot better than a bias ply mud plugger.
8. A very outside chance would be your steering wheel splines to the column are worn but I'd be very suprised if thata as your problem.

Finally, you can remove some of the backlash in the steering by tightening the adjuster on the side of the steering box. This will not help if any of the other items are aproblem. You have to back off the large jam nut (I use a 24mm spanner which equates to something imperial) and then use a (10mm in my case) spanner to gently tighten the adjuster. DO NOT crank down hard on the adjuster as it won't help. Top off the oil in there while your at it.

That's about it.

If well set up the steering should be precise enough that you can pick a line into a bend and hold it easily without constant 'Dukes of Hazard' style steering inputs.

Cheers
Gregor

[LaneRover]

By wandering I mean it is near impossible to keep in a straight line without correcting from left to right. I got stopped the other night as the cop thought I was drunk due to my weaving along the road.

I agree that kind of weaving and wandering is WAY to much. Having an assistant to move the steering wheel back and forth is a huge help to help locate what the problem is. Everyone is giving good advice about starting at the top and working your way down.

I would even go so far as to double check the u-bolts that attach the axles to the springs and the spring bushes too if everything else doesn't fix your problem.

Rover steering does require somewhat consistent input unlike some of todays cars that you can drive with a finger.

Brent