Rusted Parts

[PH4]

The acid bath thread made me realize someone on this board may have a handy solution for me. I have a lot of parts mainly nuts and bolts that are rusted on the outside (think bolts and nuts holding hinges on tailgates and the like). I believe these parts would be ok if I could get the rust off. I have tried soaking in paint stripper and kerosene (not combined) and it does not seem to do the job. Would this be a good candidate for a homeade acid wash or is there an over the counter product I could use or should I toss parts and replace. I prefer not to replace. All advice appreciated.

[sailtech]

The acid bath thread made me realize someone on this board may have a handy solution for me. I have a lot of parts mainly nuts and bolts that are rusted on the outside (think bolts and nuts holding hinges on tailgates and the like). I believe these parts would be ok if I could get the rust off. I have tried soaking in paint stripper and kerosene (not combined) and it does not seem to do the job. Would this be a good candidate for a homeade acid wash or is there an over the counter product I could use or should I toss parts and replace. I prefer not to replace. All advice appreciated.


I use a $20 rock tumbler, with ground-up walnut shells, on my rusty nuts, bolts and washers.

[greenmeanie]

The issue here is that any protective plating/coating has already failed because the nuts/bolts are corroding. If you get them clean you'll still have bare steel which will corrode even faster this time unless you replate them.

I'll agree that the cost of fasteners can be deceptively expensive but it is a lot less hassle in the long run to just buy replacements.
Cheers
Gregor

[LaneRover]

My brother bought something that allows him to put metal bits in a tub of solution with an electrode attached and then he leaves it over night. I am not sure if he has actually used it on any Rover parts but I had a sheet metal heater shroud that my house's PO had glued fake brick onto and it looked like crap!

He couldn't fit the whole thing in at once but did one side and then the other and I was amazed how well it came out. I will send him an e-mail and see what it is exactly and where he got it.

Brent

[Enigma]

I have used a small sandblaster to clean up parts. Quite good on nuts and bolts although I have found that they rust easily after treatment. If excessively rusted, sometimes the correct wrench is too big.

Another tool I use is one called Threadmate. It has 2 hardened cutters and you place it on the bolt, tighten the cutters down and then thread the cutters up and down. Works for all pitches. I have saved many of the unusual British bolts from oblivion.

Cheers

[S11A]

Eastwood sells a couple of different tumblers as mentioned above as well as the plating kits.

Note of caution: I used a wire wheel on a bench grinder, and launched a bolt at very high velocity across the garage. I am still to this day shocked at how fast and with what force it went...

[S11A]

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=381&itemType=CATEGORY

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=134&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=400&iSubCat=407&iProductID=134

[Eric W S]

There are chemical rust removing products out there. Google the rust store. They work well.

You can also buy kits to replate your bolts. It is a large bucket with a current and kit to coat with. You can't do some coats, but you can cadmium plate them, black them, chrome them... Around 150 out the door.

or take the bolts to a galvanizer and have them dipped and coated.

EwS

[Momo]

If you can paint a given fastener, then sometimes they are worth saving.
The rock tumbler is a great method since it does the work for you.

But for fasteners that are better off plated, I just replace them. For example, for all the 7/16 nuts & bolts used on hardtops, truck cabs, and soft top frames, I just get cad plated fine thread grade 8 stuff at the hardware store.

For the odd British stuff, like the panhead super-coarse thread bolts used
on the floor boards, there are vendors that sell kits. Buy a handful of extras and store them in your spare parts cache.

Generally my rule is unless it must thread into an original part or captive nut, I will find a good quality replacement at the hardware store. The cad plated stuff is great, it looks right on the truck and it is cheaper in the long run in every way.

[greenmeanie]

I'm supprised you can cad plate. EPA amongst others is very much against it these days. Even the likes of Boeing, Airbus & most military equipment manufacturers won't allow parts using it any more.

I would suggest some research on any chemicals before skiddling with them in the garage as there are some good reasons why some of them are no longer allowed in industry. Look for MSDS sheets.

Cheers
Gregor

[thixon]

You can always Ospho them, and then put a coat of paint on them.

[PH4]

Looks like I may just go with new. I had considered cleaning and then spraying with galvinized paint. I have always been concerned in regard to using the correct fastner because of corrosion issues. I find it incredible that a 60s series will often have less corrosion issues than a defender.

[greenmeanie]

Looks like I may just go with new. I had considered cleaning and then spraying with galvinized paint. I have always been concerned in regard to using the correct fastner because of corrosion issues.

Stick with anything with a goldy/yellow coating or zinc plated and you will be fine. It is the grade of bolt that is more important. Use plenty of anti sieze and you'll thank yourself later.

I find it incredible that a 60s series will often have less corrosion issues than a defender.

In corporate speak that is called 'making efficiency gains' and to the rest of it is known as cutting cost. They ain't made like they used to be.

Cheers
Gregor

[txeagle]

So, if you are looking for a cheap and fairly safe way to remove rust from various rusty parts, here's a site that I found that shows you how to remove Rust using Electrolysis.

If nothing else, it's interesting reading.....

http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

Ben

[Dav1550]

So, if you are looking for a cheap and fairly safe way to remove rust from various rusty parts, here's a site that I found that shows you how to remove Rust using Electrolysis.



http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

Ben


It's a simple enough set-up useful on doing the odd bit that's to be painted afterward and especially so if the part is thin or frail.

Here is a pic of what I've used........ The charger and the plastic drain pan I already had, the baking soda went un-noticed, though there was some question of a missing spatula by the Misses.:nono:

[Alacrity]

Molasses - I kid you not.

Luck
Alac

[Momo]

yeah but we all know Molasses is slow :D

[LaneRover]

Can the electrolysis method only be used for ferrous metals (steel, iron and such) or can it be used for any metal that will carry a current? Or in other words can it also be used with Aluminum if you use another hunk of aluminum as the sacrificial electrode?

Brent

[S11A]

I am thinking yes. I have seen a kit sold for household use that consists of a sheet of metal (anode or cathode) and a powder that is basically the washing soda as described in the link above. The metal sheet and the powder go into a bucket with water and the pieces to be de-tarnished are dipped in. It does a great job of removing tarnish from silver, brass, etc., i.e.- polishing the silverware. Light tarnish is removed almost instantly.

But w/o the power supply, it is probably going to be a lot more gentle, as you would want for silver.

On a similar note, on Mythbusters (Discovery channel show) they used a DC power supply and salsa to erode metal bars (simulating a jail break) and they managed to eat through a thick iron bar in about a month. AC didn't work at all.