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View Full Version : Throw out (clutch relase) bearing replacement



msggunny
04-26-2008, 01:55 PM
Ok, so has anyone been able to do this without taking the transmission completely out of the truck?

Looking to do it right but with minimal hassle.

Thanks.

Moose
04-26-2008, 03:41 PM
It is possible to do the throw out bearing without pulling the gearbox completely out. You need to undo the props at the gearbox ends, remove the floors and tunnel cover, disconnect the parking brake linkage and then separate the engine and gearbox. The gearbox is then moved rearwards (something like 6 - 8 inches) and there you go, access to the bearing.

The tricky bit is balancing the gearbox. A floor jack and extra hands help here a lot.

Brett

msggunny
04-26-2008, 05:34 PM
It is possible to do the throw out bearing without pulling the gearbox completely out. You need to undo the props at the gearbox ends, remove the floors and tunnel cover, disconnect the parking brake linkage and then separate the engine and gearbox. The gearbox is then moved rearwards (something like 6 - 8 inches) and there you go, access to the bearing.

The tricky bit is balancing the gearbox. A floor jack and extra hands help here a lot.

Brett

Thats what i was hopeing for. I think the manual wants you to take it out for better access to the release fork.

If i can find a camera guy i will have him employed to document it.

Thanks again.

haydukelives
04-27-2008, 08:26 AM
I replaced my clutch and pressure plates along with the throw out bearing earlier this year. I moved the gearbox about 6 inches back and was able to slide everything in there. The toughest part was "offering" the gearbox back to the flywheel housing. Someone on the GnR site, offered a good idea, back out two opposite flywheel housing studs, go to the hardware store, match the threads(coarse I think) with a 5-6" bolt. Grind off the head, so when you slide 'em together you have guide rails to line it all up again. Best of luck.

Noel

Daurie
04-27-2008, 10:46 AM
Some may argue the worth of it, but I find that the effort required to remove the seat box pays for itself. Once its out of the way theres very few things you have to crawl under the truck to do. :thumb-up: The less under the truck time the happier I am.

57109
04-27-2008, 06:33 PM
the bolts to cut down are 3/8" course and it's makes it a LOT easier to matethem back up. Cut slots in the outer end to help unscrew them when you are done!
Gord'n