Parts for the 109s like mine

[chrismccarthy]

hey, i've been looking to purchase two items for my truck and can't find them. these two items are specific to the NADA 6cyl. 109. the gas tank is one, i know our sponsor here used to have it listed, but not anymore. and i am also was looking for the front brake cylinders for the 11 inch brakes. any ideas about locating hard-to-find parts? are you going to the Rovers motherland? are you looking for used parts only? or are you fashioning what you can out of whatever is available? the front brakes could be changed to disc, i guess..? like to hear what the thoughts are...

[Les Parker]

Chris,

RN has the wheel cylinders in stock:-

RNC600 RHF cylinder (2 required) @ $225.70 each
RNC599 LHF cylinder (2 required) @ $225.70 each

OR
RNC601 Wheel cylinder rebuild kit (does 4 wheel cylinders) $53.79

All the above is currently available from our stock.

:)

[jp-]

RN has those in stock, 543301, priced at $4.86 each.
Hmm, who said RN was expensive !!!

:)

Les,

You can raise the price of your jack handles, if you lower the price of your wheel cylinders. Just a thought.


I can probably have a machine shop make some out of billet for less...

[Mercedesrover]

Holy crap, Les. What happened to those wheel cylinders?
They were $66.85 a couple months ago.

Our host sells a 109 tank that will work with your truck. It's aftermarket but it'll do.

jim

[yorker]

Wow! did the dollar tank that badly?! ;)

[greenmeanie]

Look at the blower motor a couple of threads down. Classic British car ownership is going to be expensive with the doollar tanking and the cost of fuel affecting shipping.

The Chevy/Ford/Toyota drivetrain I'm installing in my NADA 109 is starting to look more attractive every day.

Chris, the parts are common with a 101 if that helps. In deference to our hosts I'll leave it up to you to look but the UK may provide more options.

If this was about a year from now I'd offer you the set from the front end of my truck but they're staying put until I get round to the disk conversion in the build.

Cheers
Gregor

[Mercedesrover]

For that money you can take the old cylinders to a machine shop and have them bore and install a stainless Speedi-Sleeve in them. You'll never have to touch them again. I've got all the old ones out of my 109...Think I'll do just that.....

[jp-]

For that money you can take the old cylinders to a machine shop and have them bore and install a stainless Speedi-Sleeve in them. You'll never have to touch them again. I've got all the old ones out of my 109...Think I'll do just that.....

Damn, that's a great idea! I think I still have my old ones too.

[Tom Santoli]

The fuel tank in my 109 has a twist locking ring (as opposed to a bolted flange) holding the sending unit/ pick-up in place. This seems different than the images in the catalog; is this part of the reason the tank is difficult to get as original?

Mine's leaking and I would swap it rather than try to seal it if a suitable replacement were available.

Tom

[leafsprung]

I like the tempered brass sleaves better than the stainless ones

[jp-]

The fuel tank in my 109 has a twist locking ring (as opposed to a bolted flange) holding the sending unit/ pick-up in place. This seems different than the images in the catalog; is this part of the reason the tank is difficult to get as original?

Mine's leaking and I would swap it rather than try to seal it if a suitable replacement were available.

Tom

Tom, is it leaking from the top? My brand new tank leaked from the top after installation. Trouble is that I only caught it a month later. The original tanks had a brass ring that was soldered to the inside of the tank. The screw holes were not tapped all the way through the brass, so there were no leaks as long as you put some type of gasket sealer on the gasket.

On the new one, I used the original screws with their lock washers and I put hylomar on the gasket. However, it still leaked. When I took off the top panel and rocked the truck to slosh the gas around I figured out that the gas was wicking up the screw threads! So I took off the sender and pickup tube and removed the lock washers from the screws. This time I not only put gasket sealer on the gasket, but also on the screws themselves. No more leaks.

This is just a caveat to all those installing new tanks without the original style brass screw insert.

[TeriAnn]

RNC600 RHF cylinder (2 required) @ $225.70 each
RNC599 LHF cylinder (2 required) @ $225.70 each


If you don't mind Allmakes brand instead of genuine

600201 RHF cylinder (2 required) @ $55.00 ea
600200 LHF cylinder (2 required) @ $55.00 ea

600210 rebuild kit for a 4 cylinders @ $12.50

[Donnie]

For that money you can take the old cylinders to a machine shop and have them bore and install a stainless Speedi-Sleeve in them. You'll never have to touch them again. I've got all the old ones out of my 109...Think I'll do just that.....
There is someone who does this brass sleeving work on both master & wheel cyls..you can find his name in Hemmings, for what that's worth. not costly either.

[chrismccarthy]

wow! ya'll got after this didn'tja?
i have an offer for a complete set of used front brake bits, and the relining idea i will investigate when next in a book store (i wonder if i could find it online?) but the tank is still an issue. well, everything is an issue, bt i didn't want a Ford so there you go...people are writing about 'new' tanks, and i'm curious if those are new old stock that they bought last year, or is there a source for the 109 tank?
right now i'm trying to drink some courage and go tackle the trans brake...i hate putting on shoes and this one seems to be the worse of the lot.
if anyone has had this 'resleeving' done, lets hear from you. sounds like a great idea, but not a real option

[TeriAnn]

but the tank is still an issue.
OK.

The company that makes the aftermarket tanks that use the twist lock style sender units is either out of production or out of business.

Most of the aftermarket fuel tanks currently available are made by a big company in Canada that sells wholesale only. This Canadian company makes most of the aftermarket tanks now available in the UK. If you buy a new fuel tank that takes a stock type sender unit, it was likely made in Canada.

[daveb]

white post, in VA. supposed to be the S**t...never used em, probably ought to though...not the cheapest, but...they give you a lifetime warranty, so how bad could it be?

http://www.whitepost.com/brake.html


There is someone who does this brass sleeving work on both master & wheel cyls..you can find his name in Hemmings, for what that's worth. not costly either.

[dunerunner]

For that money you can take the old cylinders to a machine shop and have them bore and install a stainless Speedi-Sleeve in them. You'll never have to touch them again. I've got all the old ones out of my 109...Think I'll do just that.....

What is the bore spec.?


but the tank is still an issue. well, everything is an issue..

Welcome to Land Rover Ownership!! The trick is to tackle one problem at a time and resolve it completely. Brakes first, fuel tank second, then each issue at its own pace. If the tank is leaking from the top, I think jp- has your fix! If not, I would try having the tank professionally sealed (brazed) and sealed at a radiator shop. Good Luck!

[chrismccarthy]

i agree, one problem at a time, not enough time though...
the tank is leaking from the bottom, there is an area of 3 inch diameter of surface rust, and probably all the way through. i bought the Eastwood repair kit for the inside, and their repair kit for the surface. but i've used the sealer kits before (Alfas, 'member) and they are very difficult to use. it almost makes spending the extra $$ worth it. as big as the tank is for the 109, it would be VERY DIFFICULT to adequately coat the interior, not to mention the swayback nature. you are essentially trying to coat two different sections. plus the top half's weld is coming undone. so do i have the weld fixed first, then try to rotate and coat in the interior? or what about having the the top half cut off, welded, coat the two halves and then welded together? no that can't work because of the flammability of the coating...see what i mean?

[greenmeanie]

I have just used the POR 15 sealer kit on my 109 tank and it worked well. Yo uneed to follow the directions exactly. That means you get the cleaner, the etcher and the sealer stuff. Lots of rolling the tank around the front yard and pickiing it up shaking it. Between that and the grunting and screaming I think the neighbours think my truck has finally driven me over the edge.

You get a quart of sealer which is more than adequate to coat the inside of the tank. In the low humidity of AZ it took about 1 week to set which gave plenty of opportunity for changing positions to get it into every corner. After draining I was left with about 1/3 of a can.

Seems to work well though. Get any joints that are accessible repaired before sealing. Having said all that the cost of reapairing seams + a sealer kit puts you well on the way to the cost of a new tank. Take your pick.

Cheers
Gregor

[chrismccarthy]

thanks Gregor for your input, i may call on you through a PM for more help. i bought the Eastwood kit, and it calls for an esther-based cleaner and some other additive to do the job, which it doesn't include. but the cost is not even close, the RN hosts used to have a 109 tank, but last i saw it was close to 600 american. my point is that that is not terrible, if you could find one. anyone know where?

[siiirhd88]

I didn't realize that the 6 cylinder tank was different than the rear mounted station wagon type tank. I bought the Proline rear fuel tank from our host last year, and installed it as a third tank in the wife's 109 regular. It was part number PLH650 and listed for $279.00. It uses the twist in type fuel sender retainer. If you send or post your 6 cylinder tank measurments I could compare tanks.

Bob
'96 Disco SE7
'80 SIII 109
'75 SIII 88 V8
'68 SIIA 109 V8
'6? SIIA 109

[greenmeanie]

From the parts book for the SIIA the fuel tanks for both the 4 cyl & 6 cyl station wagons are the same part - 543164. You should be able to pick up an aftermarket one as someone said previously and it will fit nicely. The change appears to be that they went from a bolted flange mount for the fuel sender to the twist type.

Part of the POR15 kit is a very strong alkali cleaner that removes the fuel varnish and also an acid etcher that helps the sealer to bond to the metal. Witout these steps the sealer is just not going to stick. It's all a big skiddle but if done right it works.

Cheers
Gregor