SIIA Engine Rattle

[kmurphy11]

I replaced my points a few months ago and replaced them again last week - perhaps they just needed to be gapped, but I had a new spare around and threw them in... Yes, it's time for an electronic ignition - but that's not my problem.

Since the new points were installed last week, I've noticed an engine rattle when the engine is accelerating under load - think 3rd or 4th gear going up a hill, or 2nd gear rolling through a light and accelerating... it sounds like a diesel, and once the rpm's kick up higher, the noise / rattle disappears. I'm inclined to call it dieseling, but I know it's not that. There is no vibration and no other indicators of something else being wrong.

The timing of when I replaced the points and when this noise started occuring leads me to believe they are all connected. I should probably just order the electronic ignition now and not waste everyone's time trying to figure this out - but since I'm down the road anyway, anyone have any thoughts?

Thanks,

Kevin

[J!m]

Did you re-adjust the timing after you installed the new points?

It sounds like you are too far advanced to me.

Another thing to look at is the vacuum advance, which could be damaged and/or the hose to it may be damaged or loose at either end. In this case, the initial timing would be good, but the distributor would not advance properly (if at all); BUT, this normally will not get better with more RPM, it will get worse (no power etc.).

So, I think idea #1 is where to start.

[a109]

Did you re-adjust the timing after you installed the new points?

It sounds like you are too far advanced to me.

Another thing to look at is the vacuum advance, which could be damaged and/or the hose to it may be damaged or loose at either end. In this case, the initial timing would be good, but the distributor would not advance properly (if at all); BUT, this normally will not get better with more RPM, it will get worse (no power etc.).

So, I think idea #1 is where to start.

Yes certainly. As the points wear (usually at the little cam follower pad) the gap closes and this changes the timing. So with new points it is usual to reset the timing a tiny bit.
John

[singingcamel]

its your timing !

re time it .

[yorker]

it isn't dieseling it is pinging. Check the timing. make sure the distributer is securely clamped too when done.

[Jared]

How do I adjust the timing?

The same occurred to me. While traveling uphill the rattling got so bad, eventually a sparkplug popped out of the block, and power was reduced significantly.

So how do I adjust the timing? Not mechanically inclinded so please be as detailed as possible in the explanation.

[txeagle]

I know this isn't a Land Rover document, but this is a timing document for an excellent Corvette tuner.

http://wiki.corvettefaq.com/index.php?title=Tuning

Give it a look see, I personally found it good to do the Vette and J@@p.

also, here is another link...this even has pictures!!!

http://www.centuryperformance.com/timing.asp

Ben

[yorker]

http://www.bayourovers.com/trick19.html

the spark plug popped out?!???

[TeriAnn]

The same occurred to me. While traveling uphill the rattling got so bad, eventually a sparkplug popped out of the block, and power was reduced significantly.

So how do I adjust the timing? Not mechanically inclinded so please be as detailed as possible in the explanation.

May I suggest purchasing a copy of the owners manual for your Land Rover? The owners manual (LSM 64 IM) has step by step instructions on how to do normal service items. It is really worth having. It will step you through setting the timing, along with a whole lot of other things.

Is sounds like you have preignition and need to retard the timing a tad. The best way to do it depends upon the distributor you have. Most original distributors have a metal knob by the base of the distributor cap. There will be an A and R by the knob. Turning the knob in the direction of R will retard the timing. Give the knob a full turn in the R direction then try it to see if the pinging is still there. If it is still there do it again.

If you have a distributor without the timing adjustment knob, loosen the clamp screw at the base of the disributor. Remove the distributor cap. You should see an arrow on the rotor. That shows the direction the rotor turns. Turning the distributor in the direction of the arrow retards the ignition. Turn the distributor just a tad, button it up & give it a try. Repeat if needed.

One thing I have learned while driving a series Land Rover for 30 years is that a Land Rover will provide you with the oppertuity to learn how to work on it. You will drive it and learn, or sell the vehicle or let it sit.

Also, it sounds to me like you should tighten your spark plugs down just a bit more. You want about 25 to 30 lb ft torque. Use a torque wrench until you get a feel for how tight is tight.

Good luck learning how to work on your rig! But GET THE OWNERS MANUAL

[kmurphy11]

Thanks for all the comments... I do own the Green Bibles but didn't recognize the pinging as timing... The last time I tried to self diagnose, I spent 3 days tinkering with the carb only to find out my points were shot.

I've actually never adjusted the timing, so this will be interesting - TerriAnn, thanks for the shortcuts!

Kevin

[scott]

i have a haynes manual for the series iia. it describes nicely how to adjust timing. i see a lot of the haynes mauals for sell on ebay. i found the best way to time is while it's running and with the distributor clamb loose, twist the distributor a degree or two slowly and listen to the idle. when it sounds it's smoothes tighten the clamp.

[Jeff Aronson]

"Rattle"

I'm with the majority here; I think you have a timing issue. If you had a bearing rattle, you should see the impact through your oil pressure gauge. If it dives when you hit the brakes, particularly if the oil is clean and up to level, then you might have bearings that are wearing out. Usually, you hear a bit of a rattle with an oil series engine only when you start up first thing. My engine, with well over 200,000 miles, now has a bit of that rattle when the choke is opened on that first morning start.

When you gap the points, you can change the timing. That's why you always gap the points first before you put on the timing light. I find that the gas I run also affects pinging on acceleration. Since I had this rebuilt engine installed in the early 90's, I've always needed at least mid-grade gas to avoid pinging, particularly if I'm running it on longer distances as higher speeds.

As for why you're "eating points," you might want to check for wobble in the distributor shaft. Remove the cap and then see if you have any wiggle at the rotor. If you can move it side to side, then you probably have wear in the bronze bushing inside. That shaft wobble will really wear out points fast. At one time I was having to change points with every 3,000 mile oil change. When I pulled the cap, I noted gold colored dust on the inside of the cap. That was the bushing wearing away. When I installed a "new style" Lucas distributor, the car became a cinch to tune and the points would last 12,000 miles per change.

Good luck,

Jeff

[jayray22]

pinging

If my engine is pinging only when I accelerate or have a heavy load is it the timing? It only does it when I hit the gas hard or up a hill or with a load.I drive a 1994 ford explorer.I also know that the engine rocker arm taps notorious for ford engines will that tap hurt the engine or just damn annoying?

[LaneRover]

If my engine is pinging only when I accelerate or have a heavy load is it the timing? It only does it when I hit the gas hard or up a hill or with a load.I drive a 1994 ford explorer.I also know that the engine rocker arm taps notorious for ford engines will that tap hurt the engine or just damn annoying?

I have a 1973 Ford that did that and it was the vacuum advance no longer working. Since the truck is rarely used a friend adjusted the weights in the distributor so that no it basically just has the mechanical advance and not the vacuum advance.

Of course it could be as simple as timing that is off and needing a higher grade of gas!

[J!m]

If my engine is pinging only when I accelerate or have a heavy load is it the timing? It only does it when I hit the gas hard or up a hill or with a load.I drive a 1994 ford explorer.I also know that the engine rocker arm taps notorious for ford engines will that tap hurt the engine or just damn annoying?

Sounds like initial timing is too far advanced, or you have the wrong distributor which is advancing too fast.

What is initial timing (vacuum advance hose disconnected; vacuum line from engine plugged)? What is it at 1000, 2000 and 3000 RPM (with advance re-attached)?

It should be pretty close to the book specs, or it will ping, especially on cheap gas. Good gas (higher octane) will help reduce pinging (detonation).

Prolonged pinging will burn pistons and or valves.