Prop shaft wiggle

[Tim Smith]

I've got about 1 mm of wiggle on the rear output shaft. This doesn't seem right because I just changed the seals around the output shaft but they are now leaking again (about 2000 miles later).

Should there be any wiggle like this or should I just not worry about it.
Is there any adjustment on the output shaft bearing?

I have the drive shaft out along with the e-brake and want to know if I should pull the whole assembly from the speedometer housing to get this right.

I'm also a bit frustrated at this... I've had to dump the 90wht way too many times lately.
:mad:

[I Leak Oil]

There shouldn't be any play in the output. First thing to do would be to make sure the nut is tight. If so and it's still loose then you'll need to take it apart to find out why or live with it as is. Sounds like it could be a bearing issue though.
Jason T.

[Tim Smith]

Yeah, I did make sure the nut was tight. I even removed the wax ring and tightened down to make sure that wasn't taking up too much room. Definitely looks like a bearing issue to me. I'll have to tear it apart now to find out what is wrong.

And I just put my new locking differential in. Really wanted to test drive it tonight but there really is no way now.
:mad:

Thanks for responding.

[Tim Smith]

Update.

I did open it up and it just looks like a little play in the bearing. Funny thing is, is that now that I'm in there the amount of wiggle doesn't seem that bad.

What to do, what to do... :confused:

[luckyjoe]

There is a stack of shims behind the speedo housing. You'll have to adjust the shim stack height to remedy this (kinda like the swivel pin shims). It's detailed in the Green Bible...

Do this while you already have it apart.

Tom P.

[I Leak Oil]

There is a stack of shims behind the speedo housing. You'll have to adjust the shim stack height to remedy this (kinda like the swivel pin shims). It's detailed in the Green Bible...

Do this while you already have it apart.

Tom P.

The slop can be adjusted out but you better have a look at the bearing and cone to find out why it lost the pre-load. If you have a bad bearing then removing some shim will just be masking the real problem. If the bearing is O.K. then go ahead and re-shim the housing.
Jason T.

[KevinNY]

Tim, I have a few transfer cases in the garage, get in touch.

[Tim Smith]

There is a stack of shims behind the speedo housing. You'll have to adjust the shim stack height to remedy this (kinda like the swivel pin shims). It's detailed in the Green Bible...

Do this while you already have it apart.

Tom P.Where in the green bible? I looked but could only find out about how to fill the transfer case up... maybe a little more but nothing on setting the shims. :confused: The sections on the transfer case and e-brake were sort of lacking in anything other than general maintenance.


The slop can be adjusted out but you better have a look at the bearing and cone to find out why it lost the pre-load. If you have a bad bearing then removing some shim will just be masking the real problem. If the bearing is O.K. then go ahead and re-shim the housing.
Jason T.
How do you mean bearing and cone? Mine looks like a pressed on bearing. I could be wrong though. A cut-out image of this area would be helpful as I've still got the transfer case in the truck. It's a bit tough to get an complete view of everything.

While I was under there, I could confirm that the bearing to the shaft connection looks good, as does the bearing to case connection. The slop is in the bearing it's self.

Thanks again guys!

Cheers,
Tim

[SafeAirOne]

Where in the green bible? I looked but could only find out about how to fill the transfer case up... maybe a little more but nothing on setting the shims. :confused: The sections on the transfer case and e-brake were sort of lacking in anything other than general maintenance.

I think they're talking about Pages 37-18 & 19 in the Series III workshop manual. Its under section 37.29.28 (Transfer Gearbox- Helical and Spur Type"). Paragraphs 38-44 ("Setting the Output Shaft Bearing Preload")

[luckyjoe]

In my S3 GB copy, page 37-12 details speedo housing removal with this image:
http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=951&stc=1&d=1213643704

Then on page 37-16 it shows this method to determing the proper shim stack (i.e. intermediate gear bearing preload):
http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=952&stc=1&d=1213643624

It's not a really quick job, as you can see. So you can play with the shim stack based n how much play you have at the output shaft.

Regards,

[Tim Smith]

Oh you guys are awesome! Thanks so much.

By the way, my green bible is the handbook for the lightweight. There isn't any information like this in mine.

Is this not the green bible? It's green... :confused:

[SafeAirOne]

*NOTE*

I was just noticing that luckyjoe's workshop manual reference was different than mine--There are 2 types of transfer cases listed. One having ALL helical gears and one having BOTH helical and spur gears.