Squeaky/Creaking Steering Wheel Shaft - How to fix?

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  • NC Rover
    2nd Gear
    • Dec 2007
    • 288

    Squeaky/Creaking Steering Wheel Shaft - How to fix?

    So the steering shaft (basically the section right below the steering wheel and right above where the shaft disappears into the dash) has started to squeak/creak really really loud to the point where its embarrasing making turns...especially in parking lots. Its pretty ridiculous actually.

    I took the steering wheel completly off, but the actual steering shaft area that is producing the noise is not accessable from up top or from outside the metal shaft it resides in. Or mabye it is and I'm not doing something right?

    I tried getting some WD40 to leak down the shaft but to no avail.

    Can anyone give me any clues on how to tackle this problem?
    1971 Series IIa Hybrid: 2.5L MILSPEC 5-Main Bearing Engine|Turner Engineering Performance Head w/ oversized hardened steel valves & phase shift/increased lift cam|LT77 Tranny/LT230 Transfer Case|11mm Ignition Wires/Super Coil|Jacobs Ignition/Petronix Ignitor|D90 Axles|Galvy Frame|Old Man Emu Coils|Cust Rear/Side Fuel Tanks|Cust Drive Shafts|
  • greenmeanie
    Overdrive
    • Oct 2006
    • 1358

    #2
    I presume you are running a steering column that is either late IIA or SIII vintage. If that is the case there should be a small bearing at the top of the column tube that support the column itself. The other support is the two bearings in the steering box at the bottom. If it is a SIII column you will also have the steering lock next to the ignition barrel.

    Given this assumption you need to do three things.
    1. Make sure the steering box is topped off with oil. This is no cost, easy and can't hurt.
    2. Remove the steering wheel. Check for signs of galling where the steering wheel rotates. Now take that can of WD40 and out it in your tool box for a rainy day. Run a little gear oil down the inside of the column or at worst a squirt of PB Blaster. Make sure that top bearing gets a good soaking.
    3. Remove the steering lock and check for galling. Lubricate everything and reassemble.

    4. Go slightly deaf and ignore it until something breaks.

    Cheers
    Gregor

    Comment

    • LaneRover
      Overdrive
      • Oct 2006
      • 1743

      #3
      I had this problem once in my 69 109 and sprayed WD-40 up between the steering column and the collar that the steering wheel attaches to. If I remember correctly it didn't fix it immediately but lessened the noise and then a day or so later the noise went away completely and hasn't come back.

      Brent
      1958 107 SW - Sold to a better home
      1965 109 SW - nearly running well
      1966 88 SW - running but needing attention
      1969 109 P-UP

      http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...2&l=64cfe23aa2

      Comment

      • NC Rover
        2nd Gear
        • Dec 2007
        • 288

        #4
        This is where the squeaking is coming from....its basically inside the metal shaft I am pointing at. I guess I'll try to squirt more WD or PB blaster down past the bearing in the steering wheel. Is it easy to remove the bearing?





        1971 Series IIa Hybrid: 2.5L MILSPEC 5-Main Bearing Engine|Turner Engineering Performance Head w/ oversized hardened steel valves & phase shift/increased lift cam|LT77 Tranny/LT230 Transfer Case|11mm Ignition Wires/Super Coil|Jacobs Ignition/Petronix Ignitor|D90 Axles|Galvy Frame|Old Man Emu Coils|Cust Rear/Side Fuel Tanks|Cust Drive Shafts|

        Comment

        • leafsprung
          Overdrive
          • Nov 2006
          • 1008

          #5
          might be the horn contact

          Comment

          • NC Rover
            2nd Gear
            • Dec 2007
            • 288

            #6
            Originally posted by leafsprung
            might be the horn contact
            Already went through all of that. The sqeaking is coming from further below the horn...almost where the steering shaft disappears into the dash.
            1971 Series IIa Hybrid: 2.5L MILSPEC 5-Main Bearing Engine|Turner Engineering Performance Head w/ oversized hardened steel valves & phase shift/increased lift cam|LT77 Tranny/LT230 Transfer Case|11mm Ignition Wires/Super Coil|Jacobs Ignition/Petronix Ignitor|D90 Axles|Galvy Frame|Old Man Emu Coils|Cust Rear/Side Fuel Tanks|Cust Drive Shafts|

            Comment

            • LaneRover
              Overdrive
              • Oct 2006
              • 1743

              #7
              I sprayed the WD-40 up into the collar that is further up from your finger towards the steering wheel. I would give 'break free' a try and spray a fair amount of it up there while turning the wheel back and forth. I know that someone will tell you how that won't do a damn thing but that is what I did and it worked - potentially I had a different squeak or squeal but this fix is very easy and simple to try.

              If you are not familiar with break free it is available at gun stores.

              Brent

              Put some paper towels on the floor of the Rover to catch any drips
              1958 107 SW - Sold to a better home
              1965 109 SW - nearly running well
              1966 88 SW - running but needing attention
              1969 109 P-UP

              http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...2&l=64cfe23aa2

              Comment

              • greenmeanie
                Overdrive
                • Oct 2006
                • 1358

                #8
                The trouble is that there is nothing to make contact inside the column at that point. On the late IIAs columns the steering shaft is supported by the bearing you can see at the very top of the column; on the early IIAs it is a bushing. After that there is nothing until you get to the bearing at the top of the box.

                THis leads to one of two conclusions:
                1. There is something that has worked its way into the shaft at that point.
                2. Something is rubbing and because of the design of the column and it's support it sounds like it is coming from the point you describe.

                From memory you can just pull that top bearing out and replace it. Make sure the preload spring is still good while your there. Is there any radial or axial play is the steering wheel? Another cheap thing to check is that the column mountings are tight, both at the bulkhead and in the engine bay.

                One from left field here. Have you lubricated the indicator doohicky as mine sqeaked something fearsome until I sprayed some lube into the wheel housing?

                Squeaks are rather hard to diagnose over the interweb.

                Cheers
                Gregor

                PS. Your truck looks great with the truck cab.

                Comment

                • I Leak Oil
                  Overdrive
                  • Nov 2006
                  • 1796

                  #9
                  Mine used to squeek. Found it to be the cancelling wheel on the turn signal stalk. Might be worth a shot to take the unit off and see if it goes away.
                  Jason T.
                  Jason
                  "Clubs are for Chumps" Club president

                  Comment

                  • NC Rover
                    2nd Gear
                    • Dec 2007
                    • 288

                    #10
                    Originally posted by LaneRover
                    I sprayed the WD-40 up into the collar that is further up from your finger towards the steering wheel. I would give 'break free' a try and spray a fair amount of it up there while turning the wheel back and forth. I know that someone will tell you how that won't do a damn thing but that is what I did and it worked - potentially I had a different squeak or squeal but this fix is very easy and simple to try.

                    If you are not familiar with break free it is available at gun stores.

                    Brent

                    Put some paper towels on the floor of the Rover to catch any drips
                    I was going to spray up in the collar...but I ended up taking the entire steering wheel off. Tried spraying WD40 directly down the shaft....still squeaking. I guess I will have to somehow get that bearing out?
                    1971 Series IIa Hybrid: 2.5L MILSPEC 5-Main Bearing Engine|Turner Engineering Performance Head w/ oversized hardened steel valves & phase shift/increased lift cam|LT77 Tranny/LT230 Transfer Case|11mm Ignition Wires/Super Coil|Jacobs Ignition/Petronix Ignitor|D90 Axles|Galvy Frame|Old Man Emu Coils|Cust Rear/Side Fuel Tanks|Cust Drive Shafts|

                    Comment

                    • NC Rover
                      2nd Gear
                      • Dec 2007
                      • 288

                      #11
                      Originally posted by greenmeanie
                      The trouble is that there is nothing to make contact inside the column at that point. On the late IIAs columns the steering shaft is supported by the bearing you can see at the very top of the column; on the early IIAs it is a bushing. After that there is nothing until you get to the bearing at the top of the box.

                      THis leads to one of two conclusions:
                      1. There is something that has worked its way into the shaft at that point.
                      2. Something is rubbing and because of the design of the column and it's support it sounds like it is coming from the point you describe.

                      From memory you can just pull that top bearing out and replace it. Make sure the preload spring is still good while your there. Is there any radial or axial play is the steering wheel? Another cheap thing to check is that the column mountings are tight, both at the bulkhead and in the engine bay.

                      One from left field here. Have you lubricated the indicator doohicky as mine sqeaked something fearsome until I sprayed some lube into the wheel housing?

                      Squeaks are rather hard to diagnose over the interweb.

                      Cheers
                      Gregor

                      PS. Your truck looks great with the truck cab.
                      I will attempt to pull out the bearing and replace it as well as the spring. But the squeak is definitly coming from inside the shaft where my finger is pointing. Bearing does not squeak at all...nor does the turn signal indicator wheel. I checked top and bottom mounting and they are tight. Steering column has no play whatsoever. Maybe once I get that bearing out I can get some WD or PB blaster down the steering shaft. It literally sounds like a squeaky old door....like the kind you see in haunted house movies or scooby doo episodes. I have a case of the haunted steering wheel shaft.

                      Oh and thanks for the compliment. I just need to get the back part of the truck cab painted to somewhat go with everything else. I've discovered the truck cab is great for summer with no windows as its just as cool as not having a top and keeps the sun off your head like a bikini top.

                      1971 Series IIa Hybrid: 2.5L MILSPEC 5-Main Bearing Engine|Turner Engineering Performance Head w/ oversized hardened steel valves & phase shift/increased lift cam|LT77 Tranny/LT230 Transfer Case|11mm Ignition Wires/Super Coil|Jacobs Ignition/Petronix Ignitor|D90 Axles|Galvy Frame|Old Man Emu Coils|Cust Rear/Side Fuel Tanks|Cust Drive Shafts|

                      Comment

                      • greenmeanie
                        Overdrive
                        • Oct 2006
                        • 1358

                        #12
                        You say you sprayed WD down the shaft. What the others are alluding to is whether you lubed the horn contact ring at the top of the column i.e the large copper bushing on the outside of the column. This is a fairly early form of slip ring for the horn connection to the steering wheel and can produce sqeaks. Lube inside the collar with the mating contact when the steering wheel is off too.

                        Cheers
                        Gregor

                        Comment

                        • NC Rover
                          2nd Gear
                          • Dec 2007
                          • 288

                          #13
                          Originally posted by leafsprung
                          might be the horn contact
                          I checked that as well. The noise is not coming from anywhere near the steering wheel itself.....its literally down in the shaft...basically where the shaft disappears into the dash.
                          1971 Series IIa Hybrid: 2.5L MILSPEC 5-Main Bearing Engine|Turner Engineering Performance Head w/ oversized hardened steel valves & phase shift/increased lift cam|LT77 Tranny/LT230 Transfer Case|11mm Ignition Wires/Super Coil|Jacobs Ignition/Petronix Ignitor|D90 Axles|Galvy Frame|Old Man Emu Coils|Cust Rear/Side Fuel Tanks|Cust Drive Shafts|

                          Comment

                          • greenmeanie
                            Overdrive
                            • Oct 2006
                            • 1358

                            #14
                            Not trying to sound alarmist but the only time I have had a steering column that creaked, and I mean really creaked like an old door as opposed to have an "I've not been lubricated in a while" kind of squeak was on my 101. In that case the reason was a failed bottom bearing down in the steering box was allowing the end of the column to ride on the casting instead of the ball bearings. The final outcome was a steering failure, fortunately at low speed in my driveway. The reason it sounded like it was at the top of the column was all the bracing holding it in place made the bottom section stiff so it did not resonate.

                            If lubing the top end doesn't help it might pay to look at the bottom end. Make sure the bolts holding the steering box are still tight. Pull the side plate and check for water in the housing and then have a good look at the scroll and if possible the support bearings.

                            I think these tings are a pretty long shot but, if you haven't been in there before it is always fun having a poke around and seeing how things work.

                            Cheers
                            Gregor

                            Comment

                            • NC Rover
                              2nd Gear
                              • Dec 2007
                              • 288

                              #15
                              Originally posted by greenmeanie
                              Not trying to sound alarmist but the only time I have had a steering column that creaked, and I mean really creaked like an old door as opposed to have an "I've not been lubricated in a while" kind of squeak was on my 101. In that case the reason was a failed bottom bearing down in the steering box was allowing the end of the column to ride on the casting instead of the ball bearings. The final outcome was a steering failure, fortunately at low speed in my driveway. The reason it sounded like it was at the top of the column was all the bracing holding it in place made the bottom section stiff so it did not resonate.

                              If lubing the top end doesn't help it might pay to look at the bottom end. Make sure the bolts holding the steering box are still tight. Pull the side plate and check for water in the housing and then have a good look at the scroll and if possible the support bearings.

                              I think these tings are a pretty long shot but, if you haven't been in there before it is always fun having a poke around and seeing how things work.

                              Cheers
                              Gregor
                              Thanks Gregor for this info. I will definitly look into this. I've noticed on occasion that there is a popping in the steering....so I'm afraid this may be the culprit.

                              Is there anything difficult about getting into the steering box? Anything to look out for or something that is difficult?

                              thanks again.
                              1971 Series IIa Hybrid: 2.5L MILSPEC 5-Main Bearing Engine|Turner Engineering Performance Head w/ oversized hardened steel valves & phase shift/increased lift cam|LT77 Tranny/LT230 Transfer Case|11mm Ignition Wires/Super Coil|Jacobs Ignition/Petronix Ignitor|D90 Axles|Galvy Frame|Old Man Emu Coils|Cust Rear/Side Fuel Tanks|Cust Drive Shafts|

                              Comment

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