driving a 45 year old vehicle

[Rosie]

I would appreciate hearing some of the ways you all use your series II or IIa.
For instance, what kind of use can I expect from it that makes sense for the vehicle.
Obviously I know these things cannot do what a new car can do...
but how do some you on this forum use these vehicles? Thanks, I appreciate it!
Rosie

[martindktm]

I think that we could ask what a new car cannot do compare to a series. A series will do anything you want and go almost anywhere. But not at the same speed and not at the same level of comfort. Theres lots of place a new car won't ever go in its life. The series will, there design for that.

[EASTTNROVER]

"Ruby" is my daily driver, but I have everything I need within 15 miles. I do preventive maintence every weekend for half hour or so, after a solid year only one issue, slave and master cylinder replacement. Not bad for a forty year old truck.

[Rosie]

Ruby, what type of weekend maintenance?
Thanks!
Rosie

[IIA Lightweight]

Other than taking the wife out on the town.... I drive mine

[leafsprung]

Mines a bit older and not quite as cushy as a newfangled SIIA but it:

-goes on cross coutry trips
-hauls stuff to the dump
-takes the dogs to the park/lake
-hauls firewood
-takes us out to dinner
-takes us to the ski lodge
-hauls groceries
-leaves stains in the driveway
-brings the latest project home
-hauls the rafts to the river
-hauls the bikes to the hills
-cruises the dunes at the coast

[Eric W S]

Daily Driver. No other car. I'll wheel it once I figure out which way to go.

[Jim-ME]

Mine is a daily driver. If I go more than 3 hours I use our Prius or our 99 Chevy Venture van. The next time the van breaks it goes to scrap. I like the Prius but still prefer the Rover to anything.
Jim

[scott]

Mines a bit older and not quite as cushy as a newfangled SIIA ...

leaf thanks, i've never really considered mine a cushy ride but compared to yours mine is a delux model.

daily driver and therapy. when the world get to me i use mine to drive off to where few vehicles could go or i sit in my drive and pull something off it rebuild and put it back on. a simple truck that simply goes

[Rosie]

Thanks you all!!
I appreciate hearing the duties of your series!! Exciting!
I gotta get one!
Rosie

[Tim Smith]

Mine does everything I ever want of it. Right now it is my on again, off again daily driver. The other car is an older, big cushy Mercedes so thats it's competition. And guess what, I'd rather be driving the rover every time.
:eek:

I'll give the truck some attention like checking the fluids about once every 3 months (more often if I break something wheeling it) and probably do a proper service (change oil/filter, check points and valves etc...) about once every 6 months. If I drove it more, then it might need a little more servicing but not much.

One of the best things about a series truck is not just driving it but actually owning it. They do require more maintenance than a new car but none of it is beyond the ability of your average person willing to learn. The great thing about them is that you actually can work on them. It's quite empowering once you figure it out.

Do be honest with yourself though. If you can't deal with lifting the hood for maintenance or using your muscles to stop and turn, then this might not be for you. Also, if you are one of those people that finds themselves racing around everywhere, then these trucks won't satisfy.

The only down side (that I see ;) ) to driving and owning a series truck is that your fingernails may never be clean again.

[greenmeanie]

[quote=Tim

The only down side (that I see ;) ) to driving and owning a series truck is that your fingernails may never be clean again.[/quote]

What fingernails? I haven't hada nything other than cracked and worn nubs ever since I got my third truck.

[EASTTNROVER]

Ruby, what type of weekend maintenance?
Thanks!
Rosie

Same as everyone else...check oil and grease every zirc fitting there is. Check over all seals, just to see if the leaks got worse. I like to clean up her good...she rides better. You have to get one, this is the best truck i have ever owned.

[Rosie]

What are the pros and cons of driving a diesel series II or IIa 88 truck?
And compared to the petrol, which one would be better for mostly on-road driving?
Thanks!

[leafsprung]

Personal preference. Either could be considered better. Depends on what your values are. Comfort? = Gas, Fuel Economy? = Diesel. Read back to my reply in response to your email on this.

[thixon]

Rosie,

I drove an SIII for 7 or 8 years as a daily driver. I sold it, and have regretted it ever since. The IIa I'm rebuilding now will be a daily driver. I'm planning on selling my current ride (and audi allroad) once its done.

[Rosie]

Travis, what kind of driving are you going to do with the IIa you are working on?

[thixon]

Travis, what kind of driving are you going to do with the IIa you are working on?

Rosie,

A fair amount of highway driving, with some around town and trail mixed in. I'm generally not in a big hurry to get anywhere, and live in a smallish town (augusta, ga).

Keep in mind, that I know what I'm getting into. These trucks are loud and slow. You really need to think about that before you jump in. On the other hand, if you do jump in, and decide its not for you, the resale is good.

[petru]

Rosie,

FWIW - This is my first LR and was somewhat concerned about driving one of these. It is true they are loud, the leg position is a little cramped (6' with achy knees), you go no-where fast, the ride is fairly rough, and they smell ;) . The smell is due to all the fluids leaking. That being said I am truly enjoying ownership of this unique vehicle. I recommend it to anyone. You will either love it or will have gotten the need to own one out of your system.
Good Luck.

[gudjeon]

Howdy Rosie,

I drive a 51 year old Landy as my daily driver. I live in a small town and use it locally and do some gentle off roading. I used to drive my '68 a few times a year on a 1000km one way trip to the coast. I will take my '57 on about a three hour highway drive. I still make it earn its keep.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d187/gudjeon/RoverRocks001.jpg
I did a full frame up resto and I have never had any major issues since putting it back on the road. They are reliable enough as long as you have time to tinker with them once in a while. Also, you have to expect a larger repair, hopefully at larger intervals. I guess it just comes down to your own confidence level with mechanical abilities when it comes to reliability. They are a great way to learn and there is much help available on forums such as this one. The only parts taken to a shop was the cylinder head and getting the flywheel grind.

Best of Luck

[thixon]

I did a full frame up resto and I have never had any major issues since putting it back on the road. They are reliable enough as long as you have time to tinker with them once in a while. Also, you have to expect a larger repair once in a while. I guess it just comes down to your own confidence level with mechanical abilities when it comes to reliability. They are a great way to learn and there is much help available on forums such as this one. The only parts taken to a shop was the cylinder head and getting the flywheel grind.

Best of Luck

Rosie,
Since Gudjeon brought it up, I'll expand. He's right. There really is no better vehicle out there in terms of learning repair skills. Parts are cheap and readily available (for the most part). The design is simple and straight forward. You have plenty of room to work, and don't need to buy any weird tools (for the most part) to do repairs and maintenance. Armed with the green bibles, you can figure out (on your own), how to do almost any mechanical repair imaginable. Even if you have little to no skills, you will still be surprised at how much you can actually do yourself. If you get stumped, there are a number of us on this board that can bail you out (as you've noticed I'm sure). Some of what you read on this board may seem intimidating, but theres nothing requiring you to do a frame swap right off the bat. The truth is, you can go buy a reasonably priced set of tools at sears, and complete most repairs on your own without much trouble.

As for reliability, I can only say this. With every brit car I've owned, I've found a few things to be constant. While its possible to keep one from leaking fluids, its usually not worth putting yourself through the anguish of trying. Unless its excessive, just live with the leaks. You'll notice that people knock the electrical systems of most brit cars (rovers included). I've found that once you run through the systems and staighten out any problems, they can be very reliable. I have a buddy who has driven an MGA for the past 20 years as a daily driver. It has the original harness and electrics, and is as reliable as can be. It just requires some preventative maintenance (which is the fun part).

[Rosie]

Oh what a nice pic of your truck Gudgeon!!!
Sweet!!
Tales of fun and better living!!! I like it more and more!! By the way, my husband thinks I am crazy for wanting a series LR.
I guess that is pretty common stuff with spouses right? Pobably the other way around most of the time, the wife probably just tolerates the husbands mania! My husband and I have switched a bunch of things. He does the laundry far better than I do!

[Eric W S]

Not all leaks are good. Let's not indoctrinate poor Rosie with that it's British so it leaks BS.

[Rosie]

Thanks Travis, I was wondering if any special tools are necessary for repair, outside of the standard tools my husband would have for fixing other vehicles.
Easy to get at is real nice to hear!!!

Can anyone tell me what are acceptable leaks?
From what part of the vehicle and how much drip?
Also, what leaks would suggest major problems?
Much appreciated!

[greenmeanie]

Rover leaks:

The brake system should be leak free for fairly obvious reasons.
Clutch hydraulics shouldn't leak.
Engine coolant should not leak.These systems are no different than any other car and are easy to keep tight. On any used vehicle of this age I would expect to replace the brake system rubbers as a matter of course anyway for my peace of mind.

You then get to the oily bits.

There is no reason for a differential to leak. The same goes for the hub caps and drive flanges.
A steering box should not leak although you will probably find some oily crud in the protective cover when you remove it. Many people use swivel grease in here which helps.
The engine should be oil tight. Again, it is no different than any other old engine. Keep up with the seals and gaskets and it'll be good. Some have open breathers that will leave a light oily residue in the engine bay but this should only be noticeable over a considerable time.
I've yet to see a steering relay that was not damp on the bottom but it should not leave drips. This is probably the most often forgotten and abused item that requires lubricating.
The swivels will also most likely show some dampness just beacuse they move a lot. This should not extend to oil drips on the inside wall of the tyre.That gets us to the biggest culprits which are the gearbox and transfer case. There are plenty of access plates an joints between housings. These are the same as any other vehcile and should be sealed accordingly. Known leak points are:

The gear selector rods are an often overlooked source of oil leaks. There is a cheap and very successful trick using pieces of heater hose that solves this one.
The gearbox input shaft has either a lip seal (SIII) or a wind back seal. If these are worn they will leak out the bell housing drain hole. The SIIA clutch linkage also has a small o-ring that can leak.
The transfer case has two outputs with lip seals that can wear. THe rear output seal behind the hand brake is somewhat notorious. It's sealing relies on several factors including correct shimming of the bearing, wear on the running surfaces, felt seal failure, correct torque of the shaft nut and I'm sure there's a couple more.
THe drain plugs use a copper crush washer. Reusing the copper washer or failure to tighten properly leads to leaks.Finally, the engine, gearbox, transfer case and axles all have rotating equipment in oil that cause the case to pressurize. Failure to make sure the breathers are clear will cause oil to blow by the seals.

Oil leaks on a 25 year+ old truck are not magic. On a Rover of this age there is wear to take into account and there are a lot of potential leak paths to keep up with. As Thixon said, trying to prevent them takes a lot of energy - monitor them and live with it and you'll be fine. For instance, the oil stain in my driveway that has developed over the past 5 years from my three trucks can be seen from space and I'm fine with that.

There are many different views on the best method and material to use for sealing joints but I've been typing for too long and my fingers are tired.

Cheers
Gregor

[Rosie]

Gregor!!!
Many thanks for all your typing!!
You really answered my question!
I'm going to print this stuff out and keep it handy!!!
Thanks!!!!

[greenmeanie]

Rosie,
I forgot the hub seals. Most owners get familiar with replacing them after a while. THey shouldn't leak but they are lip seals. The most common error is either installing them slightly squint or not looking at the collar on the stub axle for wear. Any sign of a groove or pitting on the collar and it needs replaced or it will eat the seal in no time flat.

Signs of a bad hub seal are a radial spray of oil on the inside wall of the wheel. Usually by this time, of course, your brake shoes are nicely contaminated and the brakes pull to one side. Who needs a idiot light.

When replacing your hub seal take the time to inspect your wheel bearings and repack them with grease.

For giggles I'll start an arguement and mention that many people use the one shot CV grease in the swivel housings as it is less prone to leaking out if the seals are marginal. I'll make a sharp exit now.

Cheers
Gregor

[thixon]

Rosie,

Just in case it did'nt sink in, Greenmeanie did an excellent job of proving to you that there is a vast amount of knowledge and help to be had from the members of this board. He (and others) know their stuff, and most are willing to walk you through just about any project you might be willing to attempt. That in and of itself should make you very comfortable with owning a series truck.

Green,

if it makes you feel better, once mines on the road, I'll be using grease in the swivels until I get around to rebuilding. They're pitted, and last on my list of things to do.

[Rosie]

Does anyone have a pic of a bad hub seal? I guess you can tell it is bad by your description and the leak right?
How often should they be maintained?

[jp-]

How often should they be maintained?

At least once every 45 years.

[Rosie]

jp, how much are you joking?

[jp-]

jp, how much are you joking?

Well, a little I guess. It's like everything else on a Land Rover. The squeeky wheel gets the grease. No one bothers to check the hub seals until they start leaking, so I guess the answer is that if yours are leaking they need attention.

[scott]

...Can anyone tell me what are acceptable leaks?
From what part of the vehicle and how much drip?
Also, what leaks would suggest major problems?
Much appreciated!

i've flown in a lot of leaky CH46s. Some of the oldest airframes still flying Marines around and the crewmen always tell ya, don't worry about the leaks 'til they stop. but since i don't have the budget they do i check levels a couple of times a month on mine, which leaks very little from the crank case, none from the diffs and the front hubs leak only when ingaged. i have found that my tranny level goes down and the transfer case goes up and the OD leaks a bit.

[Rosie]

Scott are you in Iraq?
If so, be careful!!
Does anyone know this vehicle for sale?
1967 Landrover Series II; 88” wheelbase, Safari top, 54,500 original miles; Landrover Limestone original and restored color.
I have driven the vehicle about 100 miles since rebuild. Engine runs very smooth, 60 psi oil pressure.
Rebuilt Items: (All parts from Rovers North)
Chassis
New Galvanized Chassis
New left front fender
Rebuilt firewall, new footwells (replaced all rusted sheet metal)
New fuel tank
Body completely disassembled, painted, and reassembled
New rubber seals between roof and body
New weather stripping around all doors
New sliding window seals driver, passenger, sliding rear compartment windows
New Safari roof spacers
New galvanized splash guards
New galvanized front bumper
Engine
Rebuilt Rovers North engine (British Military overhaul with dyno test)
New engine mounts
New Clutch
Rebuilt slave cylindermaster cylinder
Electrical converted from generator to alternator, positive ground to negative ground
New voltage regulator
New coil
Radiator boiled and cleaned
New radiator hoses
New fan belt
Exhaust
Complete new exhaust system: pipe, muffler, hangers
Suspension
New leaf spring assemblies (4)
New shocks
New check straps
Brakes
New brake shoes all 4 wheels and emergency brake
New brake cylinders all 4 wheels
New brake lines (complete)
Rebuilt master cylinder
Interior
New upholstery all seats and seat backs
Electrical
New wiring harness
All lights are in working condition except turn signals (needs flasher or work on turn signal itsel)
Drive Train
New wheel seals (all 4 wheels)
New wheel bearings all 4 wheels
New output shaft seals, both differentials
Rebuilt knuckle joints in both front wheels
All gear oil replaced with AMSOIL synthetic gear oil
Warn hubs
New u-joints
New transmission mounts
New boots on: drive shaft, transmission shifters, clutch shaft
Things To do:
Vehicle is equipped with stock 15 inch wheels and tires (might be original tires). 16 inch wheels and tires would be better.
Need to finish interior upholstery; roof liner and door liners
Need to install heater hoses from engine block to heater
Need to install defroster hoses from heater to windows
Need to work on windshield wiper motors
Need to work on turn signal switch

[Tim Smith]

I'm sorry Rosie but with all those new things listed out like that, I kinda doubt you will find that owner using the truck like (I assume) most of us are.

I could claim and probably show you the receipts for those item but I have more than one truck. So, I really think you need a local to search out the truck for you if you are going by stats.

It sounds great but the reality could be different.

End of line is that you or someone you trust should check the truck for you unless you get very good feedback about the seller.
Otherwise buyer beware.

Good luck!

[Rosie]

The 73 series from Ill. on ebay looks alright. I spoke with the owner. Treated gently for it's whole life according to him.
Has anyone looked at it?
Since I am going to use this as an on road vehicle, this might work.
Thanks for comments from everyone!! I really appreciate the advice!

[Eric W S]

The 73 series from Ill. on ebay looks alright. I spoke with the owner. Treated gently for it's whole life according to him.
Has anyone looked at it?
Since I am going to use this as an on road vehicle, this might work.
Thanks for comments from everyone!! I really appreciate the advice!

I have yet to see a nice series from Illinois on ebay. Have you looked at the undercarriage pics? The shocks looked shot, as do the springs, and bushings. Something's amiss as he doesn't show the any shot's of the full undercarriage. What does the oil pan and engine look like from underneath? Same for the transmission? Same for swivel balls. No frame protection like waxoyl? Where they use salt? There is rust and leaks that he is not showing, IMO. What does the engine look like?

Original drive train, brakes, wiring, hydraulics, and steering components? No way to even tell how horrid it may drive.

It looks repainted as well. Tub floor looks like the original shade of limestone.

Never seen that truck at any club event or show.

[Rosie]

Eric,
You have the right questions! I am so thankful you guys are here!
I am going to ask him for pics of this stuff.
And the 1960 that I was waiting for pics on...well, looks pretty rough! All his talk about everything new...well, why does it all look so rusty?
And the interior looks like a granade hit it!!
Can anyone tell me how much a paint job could cost when the entire interior needs to be done as well as the exterior?
Thanks so much for all your help! You are forewarning me about the pit of snakes up ahead!!!
I hate buying used vehicles!
But I am determined to find a good one!

[EASTTNROVER]

Rosie,

Dont know what all websites you check out but take a look at land rover exchange, you should find something good eventually...

[adkrover]

I found my truck on Land Rover Exchange but you may need to reconsider your budget if you want a sweet truck with no issues.

[Eric W S]

Eric,
You have the right questions! I am so thankful you guys are here!
I am going to ask him for pics of this stuff.
And the 1960 that I was waiting for pics on...well, looks pretty rough! All his talk about everything new...well, why does it all look so rusty?
And the interior looks like a granade hit it!!
Can anyone tell me how much a paint job could cost when the entire interior needs to be done as well as the exterior?
Thanks so much for all your help! You are forewarning me about the pit of snakes up ahead!!!
I hate buying used vehicles!
But I am determined to find a good one!

I have met very few people that have spent 30k on any vehicle.

To properly paint a rover requires removal of each part. Wings, bulkhead, seatbox, tub. Might as well galvanize while your there. I have priced the aforementioned from 3 to 7k for a good paint job. It isn't cheap at all. Finding straight panels like inner wings is a pain.

Back to square one. Passed on the truck. Bulkhead was toast. And it wasn't leak free as described. I wasn't expecting a museum piece, but the transmission had 1/2" of oil on it.

Heading over to Cooper Technica to talk to Dave. Guess I'll have to pony up for one of his clients trucks.

For what your looking for, Lanny Clark, Land Rover Ranch, or Ike are most likely the only folks who are going to have a truck that will fit your needs.

[Rosie]

I just drove a series truck today for the first time! Yea, I had never even seen one in person before! Went to look at one that was for sale. Under 4k. It was pretty scruffed up. Lots of farmer style repairs. But it was SO fun!!!
Before today I was not 100% sure I would like one of these in the actual...everything has been in the virtual....
and I am now totally totally excited!!!!
This is the coolest little vehicle!!!
Much better in the real than in the pics!! I thought they were bigger!! They are so small!! Perfect size!!!
....You guys must think I am crazy...

[Moose]

....You guys must think I am crazy...

Sure you're crazy... just like the rest of us. But it's a good crazy.

Glad to hear you enjoyed your first drive in a Series.

Brett

[thixon]

Congrats Rosie,

You've been infected. Now there's no going back. Keep up the wait for the right truck.

I've had a bunch of collector cars over the years, and I mean the following: There's one thing that can get you into trouble fast, and that's letting you're want for a rover (or any other car) cloud your sensible side. Keep looking, I promise you you'll find a decent one sooner or later.

Keep asking questions, posting picks of what you look at, or even asking one of us to go look at a prospective purchase with you or for you. I travel alot for work. If I'm ever close to one you're interested in, I'd be glad to take a look for you.

Good Luck!

[ShootingCar]

Here's one from Copley in Mass. I looked at their vehicles and talked with them last year prior to buying mine from ECR. They seemed to be pretty straight shooters but I don't have any direct experience with them.

Jeff

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Land-Rover-Series-II-88-1960-Land-Rover-Series-II-88-Lucy_W0QQitemZ160264672505QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item 160264672505&_trksid=p3286.m14.l1318

[Rosie]

Thanks Travis, will have to find out where you are located!!!
Jeff, I looked at the ad for the British "Lucy" truck. It has right hand steering...no good for me!
Price is over the top.
Does anyone know about the 67 advertised by Davida on the 3rd page of the RN series trucks for sale? I have pics, it looks like a really nice job.
He says he has to sell because of back surgery.
He said he had a few calls but no follow ups.
Thanks!

[thixon]

Rosie,

I'm in Augusta, GA. However, I travel all over the US. I have distributors in every state that I visit from time to time. If I'm ever close to one you're looking at (or planning to be), I'd be glad to swing by and run through it for you.

By the way. My first series was a righty. There are actually things I really liked about being on the other side of the truck. It takes very little time to get used to it. I would'nt let that steer you away from a prospective purchase. You just have to endure the mail truck jokes!

[SafeAirOne]

I looked at the ad for the British "Lucy" truck. It has right hand steering...no good for me!

Out of curiosity...Why is right-hand drive no good? It's easy to get used to and adds a bit of extra character to the truck (as if a Rover needs MORE character). Only drawback really is paying tolls and hitting the McDonald's drive-through. That and turning on the windshield wipers every time you try to use the turn signals when you drive your "normal" car.

[Rineheitzgabot]

Yeah, and maybe you can up-sell your milk-delivery services to delivery right to people's mailboxes. :)

[Rosie]

Right hand steering won't work! I'm one of those middle line of the road huggers.
So basically, with all the parts for a series available at a parts store, like RN, you could build your own series truck from new parts alone, without having a vehicle to begin with, is that correct?

Travis your mail box is full!!
What's your personal email and I will get you the pics.

[greenmeanie]

Righty's should also have better access to the clutch reservoir if it is a late IIA or SIII truck. No more cutting access panels or removing wings to check fluid levels.

[thixon]

Rosie,

I just deleted some messages, but my email is thixon@frtw.com

[Eric W S]

So basically, with all the parts for a series available at a parts store, like RN, you could build your own series truck from new parts alone, without having a vehicle to begin with, is that correct?



No. Some parts are NLA or No Longer Available. Important parts.

[greenmeanie]

No. Some parts are NLA or No Longer Available. Important parts.

Oh it was done about 5 or so years ago back in the UK and featured in one of the landyrags. IIRC it was one of the Bearmach family that did it so they had it a lot easier than the rest of us. It was a bit of deliberate PR to show the extent of their spares holding although it was a SIII.

It would be neither cheap or easy to do. I think that before you could start importing 110s it was an often visited idea to build one as a kit car from parts. At that time it was reckoned to cost about $80K and that was before the dollar tanked.

As stated previously. Much better to start with a project with at least the basics.

Cheers
Gregor

[Donnie]

Rosie,
Since Gudjeon brought it up, I'll expand. He's right. There really is no better vehicle out there in terms of learning repair skills. Parts are cheap and readily available (for the most part). The design is simple and straight forward. You have plenty of room to work, and don't need to buy any weird tools (for the most part) to do repairs and maintenance. Armed with the green bibles, you can figure out (on your own), how to do almost any mechanical repair imaginable. Even if you have little to no skills, you will still be surprised at how much you can actually do yourself. If you get stumped, there are a number of us on this board that can bail you out (as you've noticed I'm sure). Some of what you read on this board may seem intimidating, but theres nothing requiring you to do a frame swap right off the bat. The truth is, you can go buy a reasonably priced set of tools at sears, and complete most repairs on your own without much trouble.

As for reliability, I can only say this. With every brit car I've owned, I've found a few things to be constant. While its possible to keep one from leaking fluids, its usually not worth putting yourself through the anguish of trying. Unless its excessive, just live with the leaks. You'll notice that people knock the electrical systems of most brit cars (rovers included). I've found that once you run through the systems and staighten out any problems, they can be very reliable. I have a buddy who has driven an MGA for the past 20 years as a daily driver. It has the original harness and electrics, and is as reliable as can be. It just requires some preventative maintenance (which is the fun part).
Parts are CHEAP???????????????????????????????????????????

[Eric W S]

Oh it was done about 5 or so years ago back in the UK and featured in one of the landyrags. IIRC it was one of the Bearmach family that did it so they had it a lot easier than the rest of us. It was a bit of deliberate PR to show the extent of their spares holding although it was a SIII.

It would be neither cheap or easy to do. I think that before you could start importing 110s it was an often visited idea to build one as a kit car from parts. At that time it was reckoned to cost about $80K and that was before the dollar tanked.

As stated previously. Much better to start with a project with at least the basics.

Cheers
Gregor

Land Rover UK built four SIII 88's during a BBC telethon at one point. LROI had a blurb about it a long time ago.

But you still couln't build a Series One, Two or Two A if you had to buy all the parts from US Vendors. I could see modifying a 90 Bulkhead for a Series 3.

EwS

[thixon]

Parts are CHEAP???????????????????????????????????????????

Relative to some other colector cars I own, or have owned, yeah. Dirt cheap in fact.

[Eric W S]

Relative to some other colector cars I own, or have owned, yeah. Dirt cheap in fact.

x2. Buy A 97 Defender. Parts are gloriously cheap afterward.

EwS

[SafeAirOne]

Relative to some other colector cars I own, or have owned, yeah. Dirt cheap in fact.

You've got that right! Try buying a brake master cylinder for a series Rover and then one for a Hummer. I don't have a Hummer, but I imagine that parts AREN'T very cheap.