Brake Fluid Loss - Identify the culprit?

[NC Rover]

Here is where I am losing my brake fluid. I know my rover is a hybrid so I'm not sure what to ask. So I took pictures of the problem area.

Passenger-side. Where can I find a new one of these and how much do they run? I'm tired of bleeding the brakes every week or two. This is the only place I am losing brake fluid.

thanks!
Nick

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d49/W8kbrder/Land%20Rover/IMG_7732.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d49/W8kbrder/Land%20Rover/IMG_7731.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d49/W8kbrder/Land%20Rover/IMG_7733.jpg

[thixon]

I can't tell from the photos. Is it leaking from one of the fittings? Or, is it leaking from the center section (there appears to be a seam there)?

[NC Rover]

I can't tell where its coming from exactly. It seems as if it is coming from the fittings. Either way, what is this particular part called? Located right under the original airbox, passenger side.

[greenmeanie]

AS it's a hybrid I couldn't give you a part #. In that it has only an inlet and an output it is not a line splitting junction. As there is no electric connection it is not a brake switch or brake failure indicator.

My guess is that as you have coiler axles you have discs up front and drums on the rear of your truck. If that is the case and they used a series master cylinder then you need a check valave to retain soem residual pressure in the rear brake lines to hold the shoes out near the drums. My thoght is that is what is leaking.

IF you want a replacement I would look in the Summit, Jegs oe even at Willwood as they all make pretty cheap parts for this purpose. Before I did that, though, I would disconnect those brake lines (Yay -time to bleed it again!) and check the condition of the flares. You might find they are US fittigns in a British part or vice versa and therefore will never seal.

Cheers
Gregor

[NC Rover]

AS it's a hybrid I couldn't give you a part #. In that it has only an inlet and an output it is not a line splitting junction. As there is no electric connection it is not a brake switch or brake failure indicator.

My guess is that as you have coiler axles you have discs up front and drums on the rear of your truck. If that is the case and they used a series master cylinder then you need a check valave to retain soem residual pressure in the rear brake lines to hold the shoes out near the drums. My thoght is that is what is leaking.

IF you want a replacement I would look in the Summit, Jegs oe even at Willwood as they all make pretty cheap parts for this purpose. Before I did that, though, I would disconnect those brake lines (Yay -time to bleed it again!) and check the condition of the flares. You might find they are US fittigns in a British part or vice versa and therefore will never seal.

Cheers
Gregor

Gregor,

Thank you so much for the response. I was guessing it was some type of brake booster for the rear. You are correct in that this particular rover has disc front brakes and drum rears. Its hard to tell where this particular part is leaking from as the whole thing is saturated but not dripping. Whats one more brake bleeding session. I will check out summit.

thanks again

[SafeAirOne]

I was guessing it was some type of brake booster for the rear.

That's what it looks like to me--some sort of device that uses a small piston area & cylinder on one end and a larger piston area & cylinder on the other. Depending on which side is the inlet, you will either increase or decrease line pressure/ fluid volume through the outlet. Sort of a poor-man's proportioning valve. Just a WAG.

[greenmeanie]

Ah yes Nick,
Just to hijack the thread to make you jealous I picked this up on ebay to go into my NADA 6 cyl build. Part number is 579168.

Cheers
Gregor

http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1025&stc=1&d=1217570635

[Rineheitzgabot]

I would clean the hell out of the area surrounding the valve, and the valve itself with degreaser, then watch to see EXACTLY where the leak is coming from. I say this because I think Gregor might be on to something when he speaks of the incompatible fittings-theory he had.

I work for a company that builds heavy equipment. Hydraulics is our forte', and it is amazing how many different standards there are in the way of hydraulic and pneumatic fittings (NPT, SAE, JIC 37 degree). Not sure, but I think these are all only American standards (which reinforces Gregor's theory). If the complete ensemble (series of fittings or points of termination) are not compatible, they will leak.

[NC Rover]

I would clean the hell out of the area surrounding the valve, and the valve itself with degreaser, then watch to see EXACTLY where the leak is coming from. I say this because I think Gregor might be on to something when he speaks of the incompatible fittings-theory he had.

I work for a company that builds heavy equipment. Hydraulics is our forte', and it is amazing how many different standards there are in the way of hydraulic and pneumatic fittings (NPT, SAE, JIC 37 degree). Not sure, but I think these are all only American standards (which reinforces Gregor's theory). If the complete ensemble (series of fittings or points of termination) are not compatible, they will leak.

I will try to clean the area up the best i can and try to pinpoint the leak. It only started leaking recently and its apparently worked fine for the last 4 years.

I believe it was a quick solution to supplying the rear drums with a little more pressure.

[SafeAirOne]

Finally got around to researching it...I think you have a "brake pressure mulitplier". See:

http://ecihotrodbrakes.com/brake_pressure_multiplier.html

Not EXACTLY the same as yours but its close!

[Jim-ME]

Where can one purchase english (compatible) brake fittings without having to buy prebuilt lines?
Jim

[greenmeanie]

http://fedhillusa.com/

[Jim-ME]

Now to sound totally stupid which ones do I want for an 88?
Jim

[greenmeanie]

Not trying to be smart here but that all depends on what line your working on.

The two bits of info you need are the tube dia and the thread size. The threads are just stock imperial so it's not difficult to match them.

Gregor

[siiirhd88]

Our somewhat nearby Advance Auto chain store here in Pa. carries the British spec lines. I usually buy the 12 inch long ones if I need a fitting or two. A British car guy works at the store, so maybe that is why they carry the lines..... They must be in their system, however.

Bob

[Jim-ME]

I was just thinking that it might be a good idea to pick up an assortment of fittings to have just in case.
Jim

[NC Rover]

Finally got around to researching it...I think you have a "brake pressure mulitplier". See:

http://ecihotrodbrakes.com/brake_pressure_multiplier.html

Not EXACTLY the same as yours but its close!

Wow thanks. I sent the previous owner an email to see if he could answer a few questions for me as far as where a few items came from. This brake pressure multiplier is very close to mine. Thanks for finding that!