Rear Driveshaft Hung Up In Crossmember

[bullstanky]

I bought an Atlantic British parabolic suspension kit and had my shop install it in the place of the completely worn out shocks and springs on my SIII 109. The rear springs were so bad they were bending in an "s" shape in the wrong direction....

The new suspension looks great, but when I went to pick it up from the shop, I immediately noticed a womp womp womp vibration when I let off the accelerator. After turning right back around and heading back to the shop, we figured out that the new springs changed the rear drive shaft angle so much that the clearance between the shaft and the hole in the cross member is minimal, and a balancing weight on the shaft is hitting the cross member. It doesn't help that the u-joint is also worn out.

It looks like the mounts for the transfer case are worn out, and replacing these might give me just the lift I need to clear the cross member, in addition to a new u-joint and either balancing the drive shaft to eliminate the weight, or replacing it all together.

So here's the question, are the transmission mounts that are available interchangeable and/or the same as the mounts above the transfer case? I can't find any transfer case mounts listed, and since the transmission and transfer case are mated, I'm hoping that they are one in the same.

[leafsprung]

same

[TeriAnn]

The gearbox mounts are the same as the engine mounts. The diesel ones are a bit stronger than the petrol ones. If your engine mounts look a bit tired you might as well replace them at the same time. It never hurts to carry a spare pair in case one or two break on you whilst out on the trail.

Descending a canyon trail can be a bit tricky when the engine is flopping around loose in the engine bay and you have to stop frequently and lever it back to be more or less in line.

[LaneRover]

The diesel ones are a bit stronger than the petrol ones.

I have heard that the diesel ones are actually a bit weaker because they are softer in an 'attempt' to lessen the vibrations.

Brent

[chester rides again]

I was having a similar problem with my RM parabolics. I went to the local spring shop and the guy told me that there are shims of various degrees, up to 5 degrees or so, that will raise the front angle of your rear axle.

That would be a pretty simple fix to consider. You simply undo the spring, insert the shim between the spring and axle and bolt the u-bolts back. The only possible issue would be having to install a longer pin in the center of the parabolic spring.

jeff

[enovey]

Hopefully you can fix the problem, but Atlantic British would not sell me the set of parabolics that I ordered from them. After I placed the order, they called me back and said that they couldn't sell them because the sets that they were selling were giving other buyers problems. The exact problems you are having. They said that the springs raised the ride height too much and the shafts were binding.
Again good luck with a fix, maybe you can still return them?

[KevinNY]

Parabolics will usually settle a bit, then your problem may go away. Throw 500 LBS in the back and leave it there for a few days while you drive around.

[I Leak Oil]

The new suspension looks great, but when I went to pick it up from the shop, I immediately noticed a womp womp womp vibration when I let off the accelerator.

Sawzall Baby!!!!!
(seriously....)
Jason T.

[thixon]

Replace you're joints, they probably need it anyway. Let the springs settle, and replace your mounts. You should be good. Most (I'd say all, but someone on here would correct me) leaf springs settle quite a bit a short time after installation.

[Eric W S]

Leave the Sawzall for more appropriate tasks. Thixon hit it on the head. Fix the shaft and wait for the springs to settle then replace the bushings.

While your there inspect you brake lines to ensure they are not too taught and investigate longer shocks as well. OME are a popular choice.

[bullstanky]

Thanks all for the advice. I think I'll leave the sawzall alone for now, replace the u-joints/driveshaft and engine/gearbox mounts. If the shaft is still binding after all of that, a couple hundred pounds of sandbags might become a fixture in the bed until time/gravity do their trick.


Hopefully you can fix the problem, but Atlantic British would not sell me the set of parabolics that I ordered from them. After I placed the order, they called me back and said that they couldn't sell them because the sets that they were selling were giving other buyers problems. The exact problems you are having. They said that the springs raised the ride height too much and the shafts were binding.
Again good luck with a fix, maybe you can still return them?

Interesting that Atlantic British wouldn't sell the parabolics. I first tried to get the spring kit from RN in May, and was suprised when I called to be told that they wouldn't have any available until next year. I then called Atlantic British, who sold me the parabolics and didn't mention a thing.

I called Atlantic British two days ago to describe my problem and ask about the mounts (they couldn't tell me that the transmission and transfer case mounts are the same). I described fully the issue and that it arose from the new spring kit, but there was no mention that this is a recurring issue.

After paying $1000 for the suspension installation, I'm not likely to pull the springs and send them back. Anybody think they should give me a discount on the parts to fix the problem?

[Eric W S]

Probably best since the problem is a vendor different from our host to take the issue offline and work something out with their customer service...

[scatterling]

do you have the Salisbury rear?
I just got parabolics from RM and Mark told me that I would more than likely have to get shims because of the Salisbury, my 2 cents

[bullstanky]

do you have the Salisbury rear?
I just got parabolics from RM and Mark told me that I would more than likely have to get shims because of the Salisbury, my 2 cents

I do have the Salisbury rear end. Where can I find shims that will do the trick?

[bullstanky]

do you have the Salisbury rear?
I just got parabolics from RM and Mark told me that I would more than likely have to get shims because of the Salisbury, my 2 cents


I do have the Salisbury rear end. Where can I find shims that will do the trick?

[LaneRover]

If you are just getting your feet wet you will soon find that your knee next to the door will be wet too if you are driving in the rain.

Brent

[I Leak Oil]

I do have the Salisbury rear end. Where can I find shims that will do the trick?

Careful with the shim idea. Shims have their place but too much, which is what you would most likely need, will start to cause driveshaft angle problems.
Remember, you need to clear the cross member enough so when the suspension is at full droop it doesn't make contact. Clearance at ride height isn't enough.
When you go through the effort of replacing all the engine/tranny mounts, u-joints (sounds like you really need to do these), add enough shim to the rear to clear the cross member but add drive line vibrations, intentionally sag your new springs...sounds like making a small notch in the cross member is a minimal amount of work....you don't really need to use a sawzall but however you do it a notch will ultimately leave you with a better setup.
Cut it, weld it up (or leave it), drive and enjoy it instead of putting more work into it.
Jason T.

[bullstanky]

If you are just getting your feet wet you will soon find that your knee next to the door will be wet too if you are driving in the rain.

Brent

I have a hole in the floor board that lets the rainwater from the dash vents drain as it comes through the cab, so my feet are wet and my socks are soaked.

Now that I'm spending $k's on suspensions and other parts that don't quite line up, I feel like I'm getting a taste of the "authentic" Series LR experience!
:)

[bullstanky]

After a little investigation, it appears that RN, Atlantic British and British Pacific were all getting parabolic springs from the same vendor, who at some point changed the specs of the rear springs creating the problem I have described with driveline geometry, and the current lack of available parabolic spring kits.

Is there anything to worry about or look out for when notching and welding up a crossmember?