How can i achieve getting this paint color for my series III?

[hollerlwb]

So im really stuck on the color and method of which to paint my series III.

I paint jeeps every week in a booth, with real guns, blah blah blah. Comes out glossy and beautiful and everyone is happy.....But i dont think that i want that glossy, brand new, clear coated look for my series.

Ive seen on forums and websites that people use spray cans or rollers to roll the paint on, but that sounds a little too inconsistent....maybe im wrong.
I guess i just dont know how to achieve exactly what i want:

-What I want is a flat, faded kind of look in the Pastel Green color.
-I have considered spraying pastel green and simply leaving out the layer of clear coat...but this would still not get me the color of the truck in the link below...or would it?

Here is a link to the truck that inspired the desired look im going for (Yes i understand that it is old and the paint has faded):
(It is the 1974 series III 88" for sale at the top of the page)
http://www.dap-inc.com/used/index.shtml

My wheels and roof are already the same as in the picture (limestone) so i dont need to worry about that.

Let me know what color you think this truck is (I believe its just an old, faded pastel green)
and
what in your opinion is the best way to go about getting this look.

Be gentle guys........haha

Thanks

[Leslie]

I agree, it's a (slightly) faded pastel green. The color is still pretty close, but yes, it's oxidized, not shiny.


I say, spray it, then lightly sand it to knock the gloss off. Then, let time do its thing.....

[leafsprung]

Add some flattener . . . or buy a truck with the real deal

http://www.pangolin4x4.com/pangolin4x4/garage/events/wytrip/images/Last%20Roll%20-%20012.jpg

[xsbowes]

Paint and wait 30 yrs. On the 70 SIIA I had, the paint was oxidized like the picture you have but on the areas that were not exposed i.e. behind the cover on the fuel filler hoses, it was still a nice factory paint. Definitely not clear coated but you could see a faint reflection in it. If your going for that not so shiny look, you could try a Satin Clear Coat. Or for a really oxidized look get a light pastel green overspray on top of the normal pastel green and then follow with a satin coat.

Using the rollers was a Royal Army paint technique.

[greenmeanie]

Royal Army? There's tons of those - I presume you are talking of the Ministry of Defense. If you want to be a royalist the terminology you're looking for is 'Her Majesty's Armed Forces.'

AS for achieving that faded look. Paint it normally with a nice enamel, no clear coat and then bring it to Arizona for the summer. THe sun out here chews up paint jobs like you wouldn't believe.

Cheers
Gregor

[xsbowes]

Ok British Army, Royal Corps of Signals, even though they probably weren't doing the actual painting.

[Momo]

The patina of an old Land Rover is pretty much impossible to duplicate. We're talking forty years of weathering after all, plus the paint chemistry today is far different.

But if you want to approximate the look quickly, you could paint is as you would other cars, but with a thinner coat. Then wash it every week for the next year with Dawn or Palmolive dishwashing detergent, which is pretty harsh stuff on paint. The surfactants break down the paint rapidly and promote oxidation. If you want to accelarate the thin spots on the fender tops and body waistline. wash those sections using a scotchbrite pad and pull it straight along the surface.

If you can wait a few years, paint as normal and then don't wash it but once a year, and when you do, use the dish soap.

[Rineheitzgabot]

Dupont Imron, if you go light on the accelerator and hardener, will melt in, and get nice and smooth, but will NOT produce much gloss. In fact, we have found that it takes more effort (in our application) to achieve a glossy shine.

Dupont Imron is a durable, industrial paint-you wouldn't want to paint a porsche with it, but I think would work great in this application.

I have the paint code and formula if you want it, as my Series is this pastel green color you talked about. PM me if your interested. I am not affiliated with Dupont, or any distributors; just giving you my opinion.

Gary

[thixon]

Use a single stage paint. When you buy the paint, let them know you need a flatener to achieve a flat finish. That's the best you'll be able to do if you're planning on re-painting. Most of the single stage paints out there (as others have noted) are'nt really glossy straight out of the gun anyway, but it will still be glossier than you want.

The other problem is this. Old, faded pastel green has a different hue than newly sprayed pastel green. The new pastel green will have a slightly draber appearance than the truck in the link.

[Tim Smith]

Would compounding the truck be able to bring out a nice patina? I've been thinking about this instead of painting and although I've yet to try it, I figured you could get it down to some original paint and aluminum in just the right spots.

Kind of guessing though.

[Eric W S]

Would compounding the truck be able to bring out a nice patina? I've been thinking about this instead of painting and although I've yet to try it, I figured you could get it down to some original paint and aluminum in just the right spots.

Kind of guessing though.

It would have the opposite effect. You would be removing oxidation and contaminates to reveal cleaner paint underneath.

Paint it nicely in the original color, and let time do it's thing. Trying to mimic a look is like buying pre-faded and abused jeans for a premium. They never look as good as your favorite 401 Levi's that you wore in.

[thixon]

Paint it nicely in the original color, and let time do it's thing. Trying to mimic a look is like buying pre-faded and abused jeans for a premium. They never look as good as your favorite 401 Levi's that you wore in.

Yeah, what he said.

[LaneRover]

I agree with paint it and let it fade. The Rover you use as your example has had most of the paint worn off of it in places in addition to the fading. I say paint it non-gloss and then let it fade and wear 'naturally'. I know Napa carries 'camoflage' matte colors in rattle cans, you might be able to get something close to the light 'cockpit' green that Rover used.

Brent

[TedW]

I used DuPont Centauri enamel and the wrong reducer for the temp and conditions. The result was an orange peel effect.
At the old Downeast Owl's Head rallies in the '90's people used to marvel at the effect and asked me how I did it. I was quick to tell them that I was a dope and that the finish was the result of my inexperience.

I would go with a regular bath with Dawn or Ivory Liquid, as suggested above. That should get things moving for you.

[pyounts]

Isn't painting Land Rovers alot different than a regular car or Jeep? Because of the aluminum body - Birmabright

[Momo]

yes, you have to use etching primer or the paint will flake

[LH Drive]

I would find a new piece of flat sheet aluminum (about 1x3 ft ) and bend a section about 8 inches from the top so it would resemble the side curve of a Series wing. Wet sand the bare aluminum with 800 grit to knock off the shine but not make deep scratches. Etch prime/Paint with one stage automotive paint or just shoot basecoat and not clear . Let the paint cure then using 1200 grit, wet sand the areas to look weathered back down to metal, feather off the areas with 1500 grit. Finish off the panel by block sanding with 2000 grit to knock the shine if you go with single stage paint. This might come close to what you are looking for. On the actual Series Rover body you might not want to block sand but use a padded sanding pad to get into all those dents.:D
I once painted the hood of my truck with black basecoat paint and did'nt clear coat to acheive a flat black finish. It has held up since then and it's been over 6 years.

[jp-]

Ummm...

I use dawn to wash my regular cars. Is that bad?

It cuts the grease.

[LH Drive]

Well since i'm going to remove the original paint on my Series and respray. I tried to sand the original paint off and make it look weathered. No chance. I tried 600 grit, I knew it would be to harsh, it was. On a different spot I tried 800 grit,,nope,,same effect. Tried 1000, 1200, had better luck with 1500 but the problem I see is getting an even faded look.
Even if you stripped to bare aluminum and just thin the paint down and try to spray a faded pattern towards the weathered area. You still need an etching primer or the paint will not bond to the alloy.
Fade in the primer first, then fade the paint second would look weird. The only thing I can think is to apply a full paint job in a close to fadded color you want. Then spray a thinned out wide pattern silver basecoat on the larger areas where normal wear would be. On smaller areas I would use an airbrush. From a distance, I don't think you would be able to tell you airbrushed silver paint on and it would do the trick. But up close is another story.

[Momo]

It's bad if you want to preserve any waxing you've done, and bad if you want shiny paint. It cuts the grease but it also cuts the paint. :eek: But most Series owners don't care about that stuff.

I like my Rovers to be shiny and clean, and I like to keep a good smooth coat of wax on them. It cuts down on pinstripes from all the creosote and chapparal out here in California. Even with plenty of off road duty, my 13 year old paint on the 109 still looks pretty nice.

[BobJones]

I know that feeling of wanting the aged look. I'm painting my 59 SER II. I'm using BASF limco 3 paint, basic, cheap, and easy to use. Now that I can see the result, I'm happy with the new paint. Looks great. Plus, I think it may be fun to age with the paint, naturally.
:thumb-up:

[ecodx123]

what is the color on your rover?

[gudjeon]

C'mon. You know you want new paint. I did mine 5 years ago and with little to no washing, the patina soon sets in. I used a DuPont Centuari Enamel and 5 years on now, it looks like its old. That and I use it every day and wear spots wear back. A patina that is gotten dishonestly is not patina at all.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d187/gudjeon/RoverPics05062.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d187/gudjeon/2009_07032009JulyProvincials0042.jpg

[TJR]

Wow.. The top panel really faded? BTW, That's one nice looking SerI !

[gudjeon]

No, our sun is not THAT strong. I painted the top with an industrial marine enamel along with the rims as it is tough as nails and covers up all the pine striping.