SIII Lightweight Bulkhead Restoration

[jac04]

I'm currently looking into getting a lightweight. I'm trying to figure out exactly what I would be getting myself into. The folks at RN have been very helpful in verifying that some of the basic parts (chassis, parabolic springs, exhaust, etc.) are available and applicable to the lightweight.

What about bulkhead repair pieces, particularly the 'hinge panels' which are the pieces around the lower door hinges on the bulkhead? Has anyone sourced these from the UK? Is there a US source for them?

Any help is appreciated.

[greenmeanie]

You'll want to look at P A Blanchards in the UK for lightweight parts. They can provide a new bulkhead if you've got the money. Also look at joining the EMLRA as you'll be tapping into a lot of knowledge of these machines.

Cheers
Gregor

[xsbowes]

You will want to become a forum member of the Lightweight club:
http://www.lightweightlandroverclub.org/

Lots of info. I would try to find one that doesn't require any bulkhead/frame repair. The mechanics are all the same as any IIA/III series. The IIA Ltwt's will all be RHD and have the headlights in front of the radiator. The III's have the headlights on the wings. If you can find a GS (12v) or a FFR(12v) that was correctly converted to 12v. I'd say professionally but mine was supposedly professionally converted and I've got a 2 speed wiper motor connected to a single throw switch.

Happy rovering!

[jac04]

Thanks for the info. The one I'm looking at is a 1973 SIII 12V LHD.

The bad:
- The rear section of the chassis is toast.
- The bulkhead footwell areas have some rust holes.
- The bottom of the radiator support is a little tender.
- One door top frame has some small rust holes.
- The engine taps loudly and seems a little down on power (maybe just a valve adjustment needed - yeah, right).
- The water temp gauge pegs to full hot (hopefully just a sending unit needed). The owner says that the temperature taken with a thermometer at the radiator looks good.

The good:
- The door frames seem solid.
- The upper bulkhead looks good.
- The body itself is in good condition.
- Everything seems to be there and in decent shape with the exception of the rear lifting rings. No problem, there's only about $150 each.:eek:

The potential plan:
- Install galvanized chassis & new brake lines.
- Install parabolic springs & OME shocks.
- Replace exhaust.
- Tune up engine & adjust valves.
- Repair bulkhead & radiator support.
- Brush-on a fresh coat of camo paint.
- Enjoy

The problem with finding a lightweight that doesn't need bulkhead or chassis repair seems to be initial cost and just trying to actually find one. It seems like almost all of these vehicles have bodies that are really beat-up as well. For me, I would much rather find a lightweight with a good body/mechanicals and then repair the bulkhead and do a galvanized chassis swap. At least that way I won't have to worry about the chassis ever again.

[greenmeanie]

Sorry if this seems negative but it seems like your plan is to replace all the really expensive bits in order to have some straight panels. I think your logic is backwards unless you REALLY must have a galvy chassis.

Have a poke around milweb.net and you'll eventually see some really nice ones. Prices in the UK are pretty cheap compared to here and import is less than the rebuild you describe.

Due to their unique parts in this country you'll either pay good money for a nice one or pay less up front and then find out how expensive it is to source all the parts for a rebuild.

Cheers
Gregor

[jac04]

^ I hear what you're saying. However, most of the mechanical parts seem to be the same as a civilian SIII. The really unique parts are the body parts, which are hard to find. Since I can get a new galv chassis, I would rather replace the chassis than have to do a bunch of body work. The chassis swap is fairly easy. Plus, I really don't want to get involved with importing a vehicle.

What other parts are going to give me a problem if I decide to proceed with this project?

[Tim Smith]

I've found the front fenders are pretty weak and tend to crack at the supports. That is really just a little thing...

The bulkhead is indeed different. If you have one that can be repaired then have at it. The rest of the truck's difference is just the flat panels in the body work. Mechanically, they are pretty much just an 88. The axles might be skinnier than a standard 88 but mine don't seem to be.

Your keen eye on the chassis will be a common problem here in New England. You could repair the rear section if it's not too bad but I have the same "swap it all" kind of thinking once I start to see rust. I've yet to have any success controlling/cutting and removing rust once it starts.

Gregor's idea about getting one from the UK is a good one. You might find one in real good shape for the price but you should budget for a flight over there in order to check it out. Unless I trusted the seller implicitly, I would never trust a seller's description of a series truck. "A good runner" goes a long way through the spectrum it seems.

Good luck and let us know how it progresses.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/smithco1/R03oH4PwIzI/AAAAAAAABE0/l2DPq7hkmJ4/s144/DSC00009.JPG

[jac04]

The axles might be skinnier than a standard 88 but mine don't seem to be.

Is it safe to assume that if the vehicle has the civilian type drive flanges and hub caps (the ones that stick out), then it uses the regular (civilian) length axles?

[Moose]

Is it safe to assume that if the vehicle has the civilian type drive flanges and hub caps (the ones that stick out), then it uses the regular (civilian) length axles?

Yes. They are interchangeable.

Brett

[Tim Smith]

Yes. They are interchangeable.

BrettThats good to know because I've been grabbing half shafts from every corner of the garage (haphazardly I should add) until just recently when I finally got another 24 spline diff for the last time I hope and swapped in the original GBR half shafts that the truck came with.

This truck came with these custom half shafts and I really wasn't sure if the axle casings were shorter or if I just was having bad luck with my 109 halfies.

Apparently, it was just bad luck.
:sly:




Or awesome driving on my part! :D




Or is that silly driving...:confused:

You decide. Twisted, turned and torqued.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/smithco1/SDQfOQ7bxwI/AAAAAAAAByI/_Wfcos0pQBU/s144/IMAGE_203.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/smithco1/AfterPeteTheBeagle/photo?authkey=xdXU8uvY_O4#5202817799442646786)

[Tim Smith]

You decide. Twisted, turned and torqued.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/smithco1/SDQfOQ7bxwI/AAAAAAAAByI/_Wfcos0pQBU/s144/IMAGE_203.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/smithco1/AfterPeteTheBeagle/photo?authkey=xdXU8uvY_O4#5202817799442646786)
By the way, these three were in about as many months.

Wish the detail could show but the breaks were definitely different in nature. At one point I had painted a half shaft along its long way to see if there was any stress in the middle and alas, no. At least nothing that could compare to the point of breaking.

Uh... what was the topic again?
:p

[yorker]

By the way, these three were in about as many months.

Wish the detail could show but the breaks were definitely different in nature. At one point I had painted a half shaft along its long way to see if there was any stress in the middle and alas, no. At least nothing that could compare to the point of breaking.

Uh... what was the topic again?
:p

They look fairly normal, I think I have a bin with a bunch of them. In fact every series owner I know has a bin with them like that. There used to be a surveyor around Oneonta NY who used Land Rovers and I think he had a bin of broken axles to use as property corners at one point.

FWIW my rate of breakage went way down when I
A. started using 4wd whenever I ventured offroad, regardless of what I thought the trail was going to be like.

and
B. After I bought some new drive flanges that fit very snug to the axles- potentially eliminating some of the lash in the system, I fitted a low mileage rear diff too which seemed to have less wear in the splines too.

After that I no longer have broken or even twisted any axles- and it isn't for lack of trying. Anyone who has driven with me will tell you that. ;)

[SafeAirOne]

FWIW my rate of breakage went way down when I
A. started using 4wd whenever I ventured offroad, regardless of what I thought the trail was going to be like...

I missed the beginning of this thread--do you have a Salisbury or rover-type rear axle? My Salisbury did fine in 2wd despite the 109 being heavily overloaded and in difficult terrain.

[greenmeanie]

Given the current price increases for new chassis this could prove very useful. Find someone bringing over a container and you've got a great start for a lighweight. He also has a body that looks to have a lower bulkhead that is in reasonable nick.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Lightweight-Landrover-Chassis-Axles-Wheels-tyres_W0QQitemZ130249316137QQcmdZViewItem?hash=ite m130249316137&_trkparms=72%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C24 0%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

Cheers
Gregor

[jac04]

One more thing - unrelated to the original topic, but...

The lightweight that I am looking at has 2 brake wheel cylinders on each front wheel, connected by a short metal line. Is this something unique to the lightweight? I thought that only the 109s had 2 wheel cylinders per front wheel.

[greenmeanie]

A light weight should have the same set up as a civvy 88 which would be 10" drums. Someone has done a brake upgrade on that truck. It improves braking power but they are a pain in the arse to bleed and you will now have an adjuster for each shoe instead of one adjuster for each corner. It makes balancing the brakes more difficult.

Of course, I'm not sure what happened post 80 when the civvy 88s changed but I'm sure that someone will be along in a minute to commenton that.

[Moose]

One more thing - unrelated to the original topic, but...

The lightweight that I am looking at has 2 brake wheel cylinders on each front wheel, connected by a short metal line. Is this something unique to the lightweight? I thought that only the 109s had 2 wheel cylinders per front wheel.

What year is the Ltwt? I read once that the last of the Series 3 88's actually had the 109 front brakes from the factory. I have seen two that were like this that were supposedly stock.

Of course, it is easy to install a 109 brake system on an 88. I have done this to mine.

Brett

[jac04]

^^It is a 73.

[Moose]

It's been converted after the fact then. But that's a good thing.

Personally, I have always had good success bleeding and adjusting the 109 style brakes. Of course I usually wait till there is a full moon and the planets are aligned. :D

Brett

[Tim Smith]

^^It is a 73.Here is more fuel for the conversation. Mine is a 74 and does not have 11" brakes. :(

Although mine was a Canadian ?BATUS? truck and has been rebuilt along the way, so who knows if it is standard or not.

Cheers!

[Moose]

My buddy has a '79 BATUS Ltwt and it too has the 10" front brakes. It was some time in, I think, 1980 that the upgrade was made to 11" front brakes. At least on the civiy 88's. I've seen an 1982 and a 1984 both with the bigger front brakes.

Brett