Tub Floor

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  • Pete
    Low Range
    • Jan 2007
    • 93

    Tub Floor

    I am rebuilding an 88 for a client and at a point i'm working on the tub some. I am in need of a new tub floor. What is everyone using? I am thinking of just replacing with aluminum or diamond plate? Also what thickness? I have new tub/frame supports but what about the 3 stiffening ribs that run the length of the floor? Are the still available or should I go to the local fab shop and have them bend some new ones?

    Thanks. pete
  • Mercedesrover
    3rd Gear
    • Oct 2006
    • 343

    #2
    0.080" heat-treated 6061 T6. "T" extrusions and 90s from McMaster Carr, a little 3M 8115 and some counter sunk rivets







    www.seriestrek.com

    Comment

    • thixon
      5th Gear
      • Jul 2007
      • 909

      #3
      Hey Jim,

      How did you handle the rear section of the bed, where the frame tabs bolt up? Were yours in decent shape, or corroded as all heck?
      Travis
      '66 IIa 88

      Comment

      • Mercedesrover
        3rd Gear
        • Oct 2006
        • 343

        #4
        This tub was a real piece of crap and if I were any smarter I would have found a better one to start with.

        This tub had been hit in the rear before and that rear sill had been cut and replaced with a section of another one. I removed all of it and got another sill from an even worse tub I had at home. Even so, this new one was a little corroded but not too bad.



        www.seriestrek.com

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        • om617
          Low Range
          • May 2007
          • 14

          #5
          When I replaced the rear of my tub due to extreme corrosion, I took some aluminum to a local shop and had then bend it in a brake for me. Cost $20.00 and worked like a charm.

          Comment

          • thixon
            5th Gear
            • Jul 2007
            • 909

            #6
            Originally posted by om617
            When I replaced the rear of my tub due to extreme corrosion, I took some aluminum to a local shop and had then bend it in a brake for me. Cost $20.00 and worked like a charm.
            I may have to go that route, but don't want to drill out all the welds, and go through the hassle of removing it and the small stiffeners at the back corners under the bed.

            I've also thought about just riveting an entirely new peice of aluminum over the outside section of the rear, where the original aluminum has corroded away. This would 1) not look original at all, and 2) shift the bed forward the thickness of the aluminum I choose to use. Neither bothers me much, but I'm sure rover purists woud give me hell over it.
            Travis
            '66 IIa 88

            Comment

            • willincalgary
              1st Gear
              • Mar 2008
              • 127

              #7
              Originally posted by thixon
              I may have to go that route, but don't want to drill out all the welds, and go through the hassle of removing it and the small stiffeners at the back corners under the bed.

              I've also thought about just riveting an entirely new peice of aluminum over the outside section of the rear, where the original aluminum has corroded away. This would 1) not look original at all, and 2) shift the bed forward the thickness of the aluminum I choose to use. Neither bothers me much, but I'm sure rover purists woud give me hell over it.
              I'm not going to tell you you're going to hell.
              When I redid mine the corrosion was so bad I didn't have to take the bolts out to get the bed off. I put a strip of aluminum behind the original (there is lots of space behind it so you don't end up mispositioning the bed in any way) and riveted it to the uncorroded part of the original. Doesn't look to bad you just have some unoriginal looking rivets across the back.
              Just a thought.
              ____________________________
              1959 Series II 88"
              "Grover"

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