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GeoffWillis
10-04-2008, 08:41 PM
I just took deliver today of left hand drive 83 2.5 liter diesel military 110 with 64k kilometers on it and have some questions. There is a light on the dash (Looks like center lock engaged?) but it never goes out. I shift into low, high, back up but can't get it to go out. I drove about 2 miles home and didn't feel it binding up as if it were locked up. Just don't want to damage anything while I sort out what I bought. I'm really excited about my purchase and I'm sure I'll be posting more questions as the restoration begins. Thanks for any help
Geoff:thumb-up:

Moose
10-04-2008, 10:11 PM
I saw that 110 for sale. Very nice truck. To shift in and out of diff-lock, you need to move the high/low shifter to the left to engage and to the right to disengage the locking diff. The light on my Ex-Mod 110 is very finicky. Sometimes it lights and some times it doesn't. And sometimes I need to crawl underneath the truck and pry the diff-lock lever over with a long screwdriver, just to make sure it is fully disengaged. There is a bit of play in the linkage.

Good luck with the new truck Geoff.

Brett

Firemanshort
10-05-2008, 08:32 PM
I think the 1983 standard factory set up is with the LT95 transmission.

There is a hi-lo transfer gear lever and a seperate centre-diff lock plunger that sits in the center of the seat box. It plunges forwards and backwards.

The centre-diff lock is air /vacuum activated - so there are chances for leaks and otehr stuck linkages.

The Defenders went to a different configuration with the LT77 and the R-330 transfer cases later on. On these gear boxes, the diff lock was engagued from the hi-lo lever.

GeoffWillis
10-06-2008, 08:59 AM
I'm guessing mine is more of a franken-rover, won't know till I dig into it more. It's titled as an 81, but is coil sprung and only has a single shifter for low/high range. I tried as Moose suggested and moved the lever left/right. I believe that will work, but the engine wasn't running, and if its vacuum assisted that would explain why it still won't disengage. I'm charging up the battery now and will see. Thanks for the response. I'm sure I'll be asking more as start tearing into it.
One sad note was it had a brand new Badger 1/2 top that got totally destroyed in transit. They left the front dash vents open, windows closed and the wind just shreaded the top. I'll contact badger to see if they can repair it, but man those are expensive units! What are the pros/cons of the Badger top vs the traditionl canvas rover top? My old Series IIA had a nice canvas top that I really liked. I don't see the canvas top for the 110 military in the Rovers North catelog, but I assume they can get one.

Eric W S
10-06-2008, 12:07 PM
I'm guessing mine is more of a franken-rover, won't know till I dig into it more. It's titled as an 81, but is coil sprung and only has a single shifter for low/high range. I tried as Moose suggested and moved the lever left/right. I believe that will work, but the engine wasn't running, and if its vacuum assisted that would explain why it still won't disengage. I'm charging up the battery now and will see. Thanks for the response. I'm sure I'll be asking more as start tearing into it.
One sad note was it had a brand new Badger 1/2 top that got totally destroyed in transit. They left the front dash vents open, windows closed and the wind just shreaded the top. I'll contact badger to see if they can repair it, but man those are expensive units! What are the pros/cons of the Badger top vs the traditionl canvas rover top? My old Series IIA had a nice canvas top that I really liked. I don't see the canvas top for the 110 military in the Rovers North catelog, but I assume they can get one.

Badger tops are the best. Worth the money. Better construction and waterproofing. Canvas is very drafty. Better windows as well.

As far as the light, have you tried reversing? Sounds stupid, but in my 97, the light would stay on until I reversed. Then it went out.

EwS

TSR53
10-06-2008, 12:32 PM
Rovers North has a Defender 110 soft top in stock. (http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-14141-defender-110-soft-top-new-take-off.aspx) :thumb-up:

"Land Rover Defender 110 soft top, new take-off (installed by Land Rover and removed before use). Dusty/ dirty in some spots, but they clean up nicely. Hoop sets are available separately. Regular $986.00, now only $250.00!!!"

This is the hot ticket, good to grab it before it's gone...
http://www.roversnorth.com/store/images/Product/large/DST110.jpg

Moose
10-06-2008, 05:24 PM
Your central diff-lock is not vacume operated. You have the same shifter as my truck. Forward is Low, back is High, to the right is Unlocked and to the left is Locked. Try as was suggested above and shift out of Lock and then back the truck up a bit. If the light does not go out, have some one shift it in and out of Locked while you are under the truck. You will be able to see how the linkage operates. When it is shifted to Unlocked, stick a long screwdriver up there and "help" the control arm move to the fully unlocked postion. If the light is still on, try backing up again. If it is still, still on, you will need to adjust the sender on the side of the transfer box front output diff assembly thingy. Forget which side it is on, but there is a single wire to it. You may have to remove the tunnel cover to get to it.

As for the Badger top, maybe you can go after the seller for not prepairing the vehile for shipping properly. They in turn can go after the shipping company.

Brett

GeoffWillis
10-07-2008, 09:28 AM
Thanks all, I'll try Moose's method tonight when my son comes over for dinner. As far as going after the shipper, I just prefer to keep the karma clean. For $200 extra dollars I could have gone with enclosed shipping. Not that I'm rich, but I doubt the guy driving the truck made much money on this deal, and while I'm bummed that the top got destroyed, it just doesn't seem right to go after him. I've contacted Badger to see if it can be repaired, and hey, looks like Rovers North has a GREAT deal on a canvas top!
Thanks,
Geoff

Terrys
10-07-2008, 06:36 PM
Geoff, Are you saying that because the front scuttle vents were open, but the windows were closed, the wind going into the truck put that much positive pressure to blow out the top? I expect the car hauler was probablt going faster than you might drive the 110, but surely not 350mph. There are so many air leaks in soft top trucks, I have some difficulty believing that just pressurizing the cabin could have caused the damaged. Are you sure it was properly fastend at all the tiedown points?

GeoffWillis
10-07-2008, 08:26 PM
I really just don't know about the top. I'm guessing about how the damage occurred. The front vents were open, but I agree with you that he'd have to had been approaching mach 1 to shred the top the way it was. I just took some pictures of the damage to send to Badger, if I knew how to post them here I would, it almost looks burned in places. Wish I'd payed more attention during delivery, just too excited and was too busy looking at outriggers and rear cross member to notice the top, which is my fault. I'm contacting the shipping company, but don't really have much hope in that. Trying not to let it bring me down too much as this is my first rover in 15 years and I love it.
Geoff

Terrys
10-08-2008, 06:01 AM
I have seen damage to cars on the top rack of car carriers, located up front. the exhaust stacks, apart from being dirty and coating the top cars with baked on grime, spew out 900 degrees.
My son't first Rover, a LWB Rangie, came up from Miami on the top of a car carrier, who was making a drop-off on a quaint, tree lined reidential road in NJ. Result was nice crease in the roof skin. The trucking compny never made good, and after I had called about 6 times, the owner started swearing at me, and I don't mean saturday afternoon on the golf coarse type swearing. I got my pound of flesh out of him, thanks to some very good Cuban friends.

GeoffWillis
10-08-2008, 07:25 PM
Follow up to Brett. Just finished charging up the battery and got the rover in the garage. In doing so I got the diff lock disengaged. Remember, I just took delivery Sat and have not had time to play. That being said, when I fired it up, it was loud, smelly, and PERFECT. I just love being a rover owner again, last one was a 62 88" series IIa petrol, and this coil sprung diesel beast just gives me the silliest smile! Thanks for the help, I'm sure I'll be asking more as I get more time to dig in.

Moose
10-08-2008, 08:33 PM
Well Geoff, welcome back into the fold. From the pix I saw elsewhere, you got a real nice looking truck. Glad to hear you got the diff-lock disengaged. My Ex-Mod 110 is loud and smelly too, and I totally dig it. They are a little more refined then the Series trucks, but they are not that much different. Any questions, just ask away.

Brett

Rineheitzgabot
10-09-2008, 06:45 AM
PIX? :)

GeoffWillis
10-09-2008, 09:27 AM
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3270/2926213759_28fa6a98f6_o.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/31277813@N06/2926213759/)


If you click the picture, you can also see the damaged top.

jimsshuman
10-23-2008, 05:37 PM
hauled backwards maybe at todays highway speeds just under a hundred???

GeoffWillis
10-25-2008, 10:39 AM
Let me know about the engine conversion. Wonderful engine but are you worried about the EXTRA weight? I'd love to see pictures as it progresses.

Maryland 110
11-01-2008, 07:05 PM
I think the 1983 standard factory set up is with the LT95 transmission.

There is a hi-lo transfer gear lever and a seperate centre-diff lock plunger that sits in the center of the seat box. It plunges forwards and backwards.

The centre-diff lock is air /vacuum activated - so there are chances for leaks and otehr stuck linkages.

The Defenders went to a different configuration with the LT77 and the R-330 transfer cases later on. On these gear boxes, the diff lock was engagued from the hi-lo lever.

The Lt77 and Lt230 was standard issue on all engines except the v8's in 83. The LT95 was only ever mated to 3.5 V8 engines. The vaccum difflock was only used on the lt95's.