My new toy needs parts

[ML-ENGR]

So I ended up buying the '63 88 I asked for advice on a few weeks ago (thanks again for the advice).
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p161/iconclast_photos/Rover/IMG00037.jpg

As I work to get the truck road worthy mechanically I will start to look for some missing & damaged parts.
First I need to locate a set of seat belts w/ bolt and brackets. for whatever reason the PO removed them and now cant find them. I see our host offers them but they are quite pricey.
As pointed out on this forum the center bulkhead is missing, im thinking its going to be easier to just buy a complete tub. I am located in CA 93546 and willing to drive 500 miles or so to pick one up.

If anyone has or can point me in the right direction to find these parts please let me know... Thanks

[Momo]

Seatbelts are easy if you just want lap belts. You can get good lap belts at Pep Boys etc. and they pretty much bolt in. You will have to source the seatbox corner brackets and make sure to have beefy plates under the panels to serve as hardpoints, but it's straight forward work.

The three point type inertia belts are a different story. You will need to source the brackets, upper and lower,(which are not as easy to find, or cheap) but the belts themselves are sourceable through a number of vendors in the UK and the US.

Looks like you found a very clean early station wagon there. I sent you a PM with more info.

[rovertek]

i have many tubs and parts, <gauto@localnet.com>

[JSBriggs]

Ive got a tub that has some issues but the rear bulkhead is decent. I could surgically remove it if you want to go that route.

Drop me a line jeffreysbriggs@gamil.com Im a bit north of you (95722)

-Jeff

[daveb]

I bought a set of inertia rell type belts from andover restraints in columbia maryland. very good qulaity and way cheaper than the LR specific stuff.

upper shoulder mountings should be readily available from our hosts.



First I need to locate a set of seat belts w/ bolt and brackets.

[ArlowCT]

Great looking truck, nothing beats the feeling of pulling a new rover into the shop and checking her out for the first time.:)

When Looking at seat belt options the only way to go is 3 point. There is nothing soft in that truck to stop you or slow you down in a crash. Sorry to be graphic but a face full of glass shards and a broken sternum is not worth saving a few hundred bucks.

Keep it safe and have fun with the new truck.

[ML-ENGR]

Thanks for the advice, ordered a set of chrome buckled belts from http://www.gotbelts.com/rechlilelaps.html
still looking for brackets though...

[ML-ENGR]

Thought I would give an update of my "progress" so far. To date I’ve managed to disassembly the majority of the truck in order to put on the "new" tub I picked up from Ike, install the wiring harness, paint the frame, and do a bunch of other maintenance things. I also just wanted to take it apart…
I’ve almost turned to corner and will start reassembly after Christmas. I also need to order some more parts as I discovered a leak in the gas tank under 2” of dirt.
I also am in the market for a RH front panel, or the entire wing as mine is past the point repair…

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p161/iconclast_photos/Rover/IMG00075.jpg

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p161/iconclast_photos/Rover/IMG00078.jpg

[Bertha]

Nice truck. Thanks for the seatbelt tip, I have been looking for a set. You came so far with disassembly of the bulkhead-why dont you sandblast it and epoxy prime it?

[ML-ENGR]

I would like to however, I cant find anyone local to do the sandblasting.

[Eric W S]

Don't blast it. Dip it. Much better are it soaks into the cavities of the bulkhead. Blasting won't reach these areas...

Then Galvanize it. Epoxy is ok. Galvanizing is the solution.

EwS

[ML-ENGR]

What the dipping process called? Maybe I can get it done up North in Reno...

[Eric W S]

What the dipping process called? Maybe I can get it done up North in Reno...

http://www.pangolin4x4.com/pangolin4x4/reference/howto/bulkheadrepair/index.htm

[4flattires]

...is pretty darn cheap, does not take up much floor space, and is one of the most indispensable tools for paint/rust removal.

More importantly, it's fun to use. Something to consider purchasing.

You probably already have gloves, a grinder face shield and a dust mask, so you might be ready to start.

Jeff

[adkrover]

Anyplace that makes headstones has sandblasting equipment for etching the letters into the stone. If that stuff doesn't make you queezy give a few places a call.

[Momo]

That bulkhead looks pristine. It would be a shame to come this far in disassembly and not galvanize it. Small price to pay for forty years of rustproofing.

[gambrinus]

Anyplace that makes headstones has sandblasting equipment for etching the letters into the stone. If that stuff doesn't make you queezy give a few places a call.

This is how I got a bulkhead blasted years ago. Struck up a conversation with a guy at the gravemarker place... Said to come back around lunch time and he'd "take a look at it". I came back with the bulkhead and a case of beer and a deal was struck.

Rw

[ML-ENGR]

I’ve wire wheeled the potential bad spots and only found surface rust. There is a hole that’s full of bondo, from where an antenna was that needs a patch welded on, and some small dents in the footwells. but other than that its in great shape. Its quite dry here even in the winter and we don’t use salt so all the other steel parts are just as good. I going to call up north and see what I can find. Google turned up nothing on the gravemaker. I will ask around though... thanks for the tips.

I hadn’t planned on getting a professional paint job, as the local quotes are ridiculous, and I really should save the money given the local economy. Would the Galvanizing be any more difficult to paint over than aluminum? I had planned to use either a HVLP setup or try the “$50 paint job”.

[Eric W S]

I’ve wire wheeled the potential bad spots and only found surface rust. There is a hole that’s full of bondo, from where an antenna was that needs a patch welded on, and some small dents in the footwells. but other than that its in great shape. Its quite dry here even in the winter and we don’t use salt so all the other steel parts are just as good. I going to call up north and see what I can find. Google turned up nothing on the gravemaker. I will ask around though... thanks for the tips.

I hadn’t planned on getting a professional paint job, as the local quotes are ridiculous, and I really should save the money given the local economy. Would the Galvanizing be any more difficult to paint over than aluminum? I had planned to use either a HVLP setup or try the “$50 paint job”.

You need the right etching primer for galv, otherwise the paint will not adhere.

Check around for paint. I found a shop willing to do it for 3k out the door. Bringing them the parts clean alum or primer for NOS ones. Usually shops that advertise custom paint for street or rods will be game. I went with Dupont 2 stage base clear.

[thixon]

You need the right etching primer for galv, otherwise the paint will not adhere.

Epoxy primer will stick quite well to galv (also sticks to aluminum).

I won't argue that galv is a longer lasting solution to keeping your bulkhead in order. However, keep in mind that if you do want to paint it after you've had it hot dipped, that you'll have some work to do to make it nice and smooth for painting. That is unless you don't mind the texture under the paint (along with the possibility of some zinc runs/drips). If you decide to just paint it, use a good epoxy primer. Depending on your age, it will still probably outlast you.

[Eric W S]

Epoxy primer will stick quite well to galv (also sticks to aluminum).

I won't argue that galv is a longer lasting solution to keeping your bulkhead in order. However, keep in mind that if you do want to paint it after you've had it hot dipped, that you'll have some work to do to make it nice and smooth for painting. That is unless you don't mind the texture under the paint (along with the possibility of some zinc runs/drips). If you decide to just paint it, use a good epoxy primer. Depending on your age, it will still probably outlast you.

Media blasting produces the same "texture" issues as hot dipping does. It also has the same panel warpage risks as well.

If you are getting a good paint job done they will properly prime (expoxy for bare metal or primer designed for galv), fill, and block the bulkhead prior to your final color coats.

I had my Defender's bumper blasted to bare metal. It was then epoxy primed and received two top coats and clear. It took all of three Chicago winters and regular wheeling in the Midwest for the rust to reappear. It pissed me off as I spent a good deal of change to have it done right.

IMO epoxy over bare steel is not viable rust prevention in any area of the country that will see road salt.

[thixon]

Media blasting produces the same "texture" issues as hot dipping does. It also has the same panel warpage risks as well.

If you are getting a good paint job done they will properly prime (expoxy for bare metal or primer designed for galv), fill, and block the bulkhead prior to your final color coats.

I had my Defender's bumper blasted to bare metal. It was then epoxy primed and received two top coats and clear. It took all of three Chicago winters and regular wheeling in the Midwest for the rust to reappear. It pissed me off as I spent a good deal of change to have it done right.

IMO epoxy over bare steel is not viable rust prevention in any area of the country that will see road salt.

Media blasting produces a texture sure, but you don't get the variations in thickness, runs, drips etc. you could get with galvy. That was the point of my post. Some people don't like the way galvy bulkheads look, and he might be one of them. Paint prep would also be easier IMO (I do my own). I was just warning the guy what he'd be in for. Also, if you use the right media, you don't have to worry much about panel warpage or a really rough texture (walnut shells for example). That said, I still prefer sand for something like a firewall. The texture left is easily overcome by a coat of epoxy, followed by a 2k building primer.

Chicago's a rough place for any brit car. It doesnt appear that he'll have the issues (based on where he lives) you have to deal with. I live in GA. The problems you ran into are'nt as big a deal down here.

[thixon]

Eric,

One more thing. I just got ahold of a healey 100-4, and I won't be galvanizing the body panels!:)

[jp-]

How much for the Healey?:)

[Eric W S]

Eric,

One more thing. I just got ahold of a healey 100-4, and I won't be galvanizing the body panels!:)

Why would you for a road car? :thumb-up: Galvanizing has it's place but it's hardly appropriate for everything. On a classic car, then a realllllly reallly nice paint job with epoxy is the way to go. It'd be stored most of the time in Chi-town anyway. Which is why I haven't gotten another motorcycle or another classic...

One brit vehicle is enough for me.

Restore it and sell it up here. Rust free southern cars fetch a premium here.

[Eric W S]

It doesnt appear that he'll have the issues (based on where he lives) you have to deal with. I live in GA. The problems you ran into are'nt as big a deal down here.

Yes and no. I'd still suggest galv. There are cavities that you can't prime on a bulkhead. And since he's going to paint it at home he's not going to have it "baked". So there is the real potential for moisture in the cavities that could potentially rust from the inside out...

[JackIIA]

I media blasted my bulkhead and had no warpage issues (at least that I can see...guess I'll find out when I test fit). I did note on the Pangolin site though that he talks about phosphoric acid baths as a better solution. That is something I would have considered. Big issue for me, and I think Eric mentioned, is getting rid of the rust that isn't reachable with a gun. I went so far as to media blast up the door posts before repairing, but I question whether that really is enough.


Anyone have experience with getting parts dunked in an acid bath in the Massachusetts?? I'm guessing that is something you bring to a pro. (As I think about it though, might not be worth it since I've already welded galvanized parts on and assume would obviously lose that coating.)

[greenmeanie]

I've seen several bulkheads that have just been painted like Thixon suggests. As far as internal corrosion goes you can buy various inhibiting fluids that can be poured into the thing and which will be quite successful at preventign interanl corrosion. Mind you, standing in the fornt yard with a friend playing shake and rotate the bulkhead may get a visit from the van with yellow wheels.

While I can't argue that galvy is the preferred option a lot of people are finding a shop that will do their parts extremely difficult to find. Shipping a bulkhead across country starts getting prohibitivelty expensive. This brings up a good question - what is the next best option after galvy?

With me and where I am I could leave mine bare metal and still expect it to be here in 50 years but I do have a friendly galvy shop in town so tomorrow its hi ho, hi ho off to galvy we go.

[SafeAirOne]

This brings up a good question - what is the next best option after galvy?

I don't know about the practicality of it, or it's ability to completely cover hollow interior surfaces, but I think powder coating is probably number 2 in durability to galvanizing. This is a guess based on personal observations. I don't know anyone who has powder coated a bulkhead.

[adkrover]

There are a number of products you can get that paint on and turn oxidation into a stable material. I think it's refered to as "pickling". After you've reversed the oxidation process, a good quality paint from an auto paint store will do wonders. Search the web for auto paint supes. Don't buy crap Rustoleum or others. Go to a professional shop and buy the stuff that the EPA would like to ban. Then you'll be all set unless your truck is a winter rat in central NY where 6 months out of the year it will be bathed in pure salt.

[adkrover]

Search the web for auto paint "supplies"

[greenmeanie]

I don't know anyone who has powder coated a bulkhead.

I actually know of two both belonging to the same gentleman in Tahoe. He powder coated chassis, bulkhead and a lot of other things. Both are SIII. The first is pretty stock with a 2.25 and is in great order other than the fact it has been sitting in a garage unused for 10 years or so. The second is stripped completely but was built with a 350V8. That bulkhead is still in plactic wrapping.

He wants to sell them to me and I woudl be seriously tempted if it were not for my existing fleet and my wife setting limits.

[thixon]

Adkrover,

The stuff you're talking about is Ospho. It converts iron oxide to iron phosphate, over which you can prime and paint. I've used it a lot over the years. It has its place. I usually end up using it on parts that I've blasted that begin to flash rust because I'm lazy and don't prime fast enough.

JP,

I'm afraid to tell you the price on the Healey. If I do you'll drive to augusta, shoot me, and take the car on principle. Lets just say it was a really good deal and leave it at that! Its in rough condition, and will require a complete resto. Below is a photo in its current state. It comes with new fenders at all four corners, plus door skins and some other goodies. Oh yeah, and sorry for hijacking the thread.

[Eric W S]

I don't know about the practicality of it, or it's ability to completely cover hollow interior surfaces, but I think powder coating is probably number 2 in durability to galvanizing. This is a guess based on personal observations. I don't know anyone who has powder coated a bulkhead.

Powder is just epoxy paint with a different application and curing process...

Rusts just the same as wet paint. If it's good it might take a bit longer...

[thixon]

Powder is just epoxy paint with a different application and curing process...

Rusts just the same as wet paint. If it's good it might take a bit longer...

Agreed. There are different formulations made for different applications (some more UV resistant for example), but powders are generally just paints applied in a different way. I've played around with having parts coated, and while they seemed to have a little more resistance to being scratched/scuffed, it wasnt much. I guess my point is, i don't think it would be worth the extra money to have a bulkhead PC'd over painting it using the standard method and a good primer/paint combo.

I could be wrong!

[Eric W S]

Agreed. There are different formulations made for different applications (some more UV resistant for example), but powders are generally just paints applied in a different way. I've played around with having parts coated, and while they seemed to have a little more resistance to being scratched/scuffed, it wasnt much. I guess my point is, i don't think it would be worth the extra money to have a bulkhead PC'd over painting it using the standard method and a good primer/paint combo.

I could be wrong!

I'd agree with you 100% on that. Plus how are you going to touch up scratches or how will it buff over time? It's one coat.

[yorker]

One of my friends works at a galvanizer and he is in charge of powdercoating galvanized products. They undertook this process because NYS uses rustic rusted steel guiderails in the Adirondack park, etc. (Probably made from Corten steel) The lifespan of the rustic pre rusted products were not up to DOT's expectations so they decided they'd prefer to have galvanized and powdercoated guiderails instead.