View Full Version : Top down rebuildX-90

11-04-2008, 08:05 AM
Took the liberty of copying your thoughts on rebuilding/painting/scraping to start a new thread.
I did replace windscreen sanding scraping the original this requires removing roof sides etc. And seems the xmod has a rather hard to install winscreen, made not to push in. This basically means you need a place to keep vehicle out of weather in the meantime. Since there seems to be more visible once you start to take one of these apart. I am about year & half into painting & scraping welding firewall.
And I did buy a hvlp spray gun to paint firewall where windscreen sits, presently need to await better weather since i do not have heat to finish painting properly. Have also stripped out back & front seat boxes to paint next summer.
So i can say it was more than i gambled on but it is slowly getting there!
I have a wood shed next to a barn that is full of rover parts out of the weather. What ever you do multiply the time you think it may take by 3.
Good Luck with your truck.

That will have to be the topic for a new thread "Garage Paint Booth", or something to that effect. While I have no body work experience, I think I could build something out of PVC tubing, maybe some shower curtains, a box fan or two and some real good filters. This would enable me to do small jobs, fenders and such. While putting the new soft top on the other day, I wished I could tackle something simple like taking some surface rust off the windshield hinges, replace windshied gasket, and general sanding/grinding action. Of couse that needs to be quickly followed up with paint or oxidation sets in. So I could use a few good ideas on a simple, inexpensive paint booth I can set up/knock down as needed. I know that it'd be better to pay a professional and get it all at once, but that's just not in the budget. I'd rather do things as I can afford them, and have the time to put into it.

11-04-2008, 06:34 PM
Thanks for re-posting Craig. I have the most basic of questions, and fortunately I have plenty of time to get smarter as I can't afford a full off restoration (Nor does it need it), but what I do I want done right, and on a budget. Let me begin:
1) Air compressor. Big point here and determines much that follows. Don't really need big 60 gal tank. However, to get at least the minimum CFM @ 40PSI that most of these modern HPLV guns need (6-8cfm depending on brand) you almost have to get the huge compressor. Then you have the additional cost of 220 to the compressor. So I guess the question is, can you get by with the smaller, cheaper air compressors for sanding, grinding and and light painting, or go big?
2) HPLV or HVLP- I guess old school is the high vol, low pres method and I'm fine with that if that will look nice. I've read abit about the High pres,low vol guns, and from what I can tell, they are for use with more modern paints, require a bigger air compressor, and from what I read in the Hayness restoration manual, some of these 2 part paints are deadly poisoness. Just don't need that in the garage. So, question, HVLP and traditional lacqor paint?
3) Would I get kicked off the forum if I wanted to paint it that tan color of the 1977 Toyota FJ-40?

11-05-2008, 12:33 AM
I used PPG paint this required an initial self etching primer or you can use zinc chromate. Did use zinc on the windscreen, ie. someone else did that as installing the glass turned out to not be easy. I owe for that. I do have a 60 gallon tank & admittedly had to refill tank open the doors clear out the shed etc. I believe it is 120 V. The PPG paint a polyurethane is very good not too strong odor the self etching primer is worse. I had bought a tailgate from RN series & had them shoot the colour, the paint shop gave me a pint of paint to try the colour. Now it is time to buy a gallon & get colour adjusted slightly. Since these trucks have steel & aluminum a primer is needed to bond to aluminum & steel this has to match what you are using on top. I cleaned the surface to bare steel or aluminum then repainting more work but it does eliminate the unknown paints underneath. I may have a mismatched paint job for a while.
Find someone who knows paint in your area ask lots of questions, that is basically what i did.

11-05-2008, 05:51 PM
Good advice. Its rather a moot point as I can't afford to do any body work yet. Should focus on the electrics and get it on the road first! Longer term I'll worry about the paint. Just seems that everytime I start digging into the Rover, (Door hinges, Door Frames, rear cross member...) I uncover little things I'd like to address now. I really don't care about mismatched paint (Hey its part of the camo), more important to stop any of the corrosion/rust before it becomes a problem.
What recommendations are there for steel/aluminum contact? The new soft top has a piece out of stainless (Where the rope for the sides of the top, loop over a to provide tension). I don't want to just bolt it to the bed side as the dis-similar metal contact is bad. What is common in something like this? Littler rubber gasket?, Paper gasket? Guess I could have it galvanized but that seems a bit much.

11-06-2008, 04:04 AM
Geoff I had removed all the hoops attachment points in the rear box aluminum i think & all had a steel backing piece i believe. I will probably insert a thin piece of rubber probably not necessary. I will be putting one of those attachment point on also, generally smaller pieces have a smaller effect. Where larger body parts steel frame & aluminum body should have some sort of barrier. I have taken the approach I will do as much as i can now before I drive it everyday.
There are SS bolts for the doors & doors come off easy & the door frame is exposed to be investigated. If something bothers you now later it will be?
Door frame is steel RN sells replacement pieces galvanized. I had all the bottom frames replaced. Fortunately my friend the welder knew not to bend back the aluminum shell & was able to cut out the bottom piece & replace with the kit pieces. Labor intensive but worth it.