Odd ignition problem

[madp]

My 73’ Series 3 2.25 has developed an odd ignition problem. I was leaving work yesterday and I started it up and let it warm up and then turned on my lights (could be a coincidence?) And the truck just died, no clicking on the ignition switch, no gauges, nothing. I had the starter solenoid go out a while ago and I figured that might be the problem so I replaced it today, and it started right up, I put it in reverse and pulled out of my space and it died again just the same. So I know it must be on the ignition side, the starting side is working.
Any ideas?
I think it might be the ignition switch, is there an easy way I can bypass the switch, it so I can get it home, until I can get a new one? It won't be thanksgiving with no Land Rover!
Your advice is greatly appreciated.

[rovertek]

i would check the voltage with a test light with the clip end connected to batt ground and the pointed end at the coil positive with the key on it should lite up(that tells you that it has power from the switch) and with the engine cranking over the negitive side of the coil it should pulse the light (that tells you if the points are working) if ok test again when it dies, if coil pos has no juice then try a test lead between the battery positive and the coil positive this will put power to the ignition sys.if neg has no juice then check points, test lead is for testing purposes or to get home as long as this is the problem? if it is not you might want to see if its getting fuel.....

[SafeAirOne]

I had the ignition switch on my series III go bad one day. All the wires worked normally except terminal #2 on the switch, where the white wireconnects. This supplies power from the ignition switch, through the fuses, to the instrument panel, stop lights, wipers, & turn signals when the key is in the "run" position. It also supplies power (unfused) to the alternator small wire (via the "charge" light), oil pressure light/switch, the choke switch, and THE POSITIVE TERMINAL ON THE IGNITION COIL.

I suppose that if you're confident that it is the ignition switch and the starter works and you can get by without all those other systems, you could just use a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to the positive (white wire) terminal on the coil, but I wouldn't recommend this. The only way to shut off the truck is to disconnect the jumper wire.

Another alternative is to remove the steering column fascia to get to the back of the fuse box and have a jumper wire go from the positive battery terminal to the post where the big, fat white wire is on the fuse box. See photo--Your big fat white wire may be in a different location, but it should be the only one. The skinny white wire goes to the coil. This will bring all the above systems back to life, but you must disconnect the jumper wire to get the engine to quit once it's started.

I would only recommend this as an "I'm stuck in the boonies and must get home" repair.

EDIT: One caution--If you do an emergency repair like this, dont make the connection so that the coil is electrified without starting the engine soon thereafter--After a short while, it can easily fry a Pertronics ignition (ask Bostonian1976) and probably isn't good for the regular points-type ignitions too.

[BackInA88]

Might be real simple?


I had the same problem a while back.
Turned out to be little corrosion on the fuse clips under the hood causing it not to pass power.
I but a little lapping compound on a small round shank screwdriver and carefully lapped the inside of the fuse chips clean.
Cleaned then off with brake cleaner and all is well.:thumb-up:


Steve

[mechman]

Sounds like your problem is probably in the power side of your lights circuit. I don't remember which wire it was specifically, but I had the same problem once when I worked in the shop on a 24V 109. Every time a light came on (reverse or taillights), it would stall. If I remember right, the problem was in the rear harness. I had a devil of a time finding the broken wire.

Mech