Hella Replacement Headlamps

[Jim-ME]

I'm interested in the Hella replacements. If I use the bulbs that are DOT legal do I need to upgrade the stock wiring? I've got an alternator and am currently running Silverstars.
Thanks,
Jim

[jac04]

As long as you are running the H4 bulbs that are the same wattage as the standard sealed beams (55/60W if I remember correctly), then you will be OK with the stock wiring.
With that said, it is never a bad idea to change to a relay set-up that powers the headlights directly from the battery.

[TSR53]

You can just run the stock wattage H4 bulbs included with the Hella Vision Plus headlights, as you have the alternator. However, as jac04 said, the absolute best set up is get as much of the 12V+ (or more) to the H4 bulbs and headlamps as directly as possible. You will be surprised how much of a voltage drop occurs at the lights with stock wiring.

I set up a four relay headlamp kit for a 1989 Audi 200 quattro avant I used to own with the European H4/H1 light set-up and ran a large wire directly from the battery to power the lights through the relays. This way all you do is use the switch in the dash to toggle over the relay. Using the relay method will enable you to run much higher wattage bulbs by keeping the full current and load away from the switch up in the dash.

Make sure to take your time, solder, heat shrink well and keep it tidy. This of course won't be factory looking but will work really well. You ALWAYS need more light.

MoF, I'm thinking of installing some of the Hella 4000 compact rallye motorsport series to my 2006 MINI Cooper S R53 in front. Yup, even with the factory HID xenons AND lower fog lights I still NEED more lights. Of course this all depends upon where you drive and the conditions, etc. I almost MINI'fied three deer the other day on my mountain tarmac stage drive home from Rovers North.

[yorker]

Your stock wiring as it left the factory was good enough for stock wattage bulbs, but you should consider the effects of the last couple decades on it. It is usually best to replace it with a relay kit like that sold by Susquehanna Motorsports.

http://www.rallylights.net/hella/wiring_harnesses.asp


http://www.dagsites.com/relay_wiring.htm
http://www.d-90.com/faq/Light/LightHead.html#Wiring
http://www.garbee.net/~cabell/headlights.htm

[Blueboy]

Jim-ME,

I have the DOT ok'd Hellas in the 109 and used the e-code H4 replacement headlamps in my Rangie - there is a huge difference in the light pattern you see in front on the road with the H4 being the better.

If our hosts do not have the e-codes, Susquehanna Motorsports is another great vendor I've used in the past.

Another choice if available is the old Cibie "Z" beam headlight.

One of the original companies offering a replacement light back in the dark ages.


Jaime

[adkrover]

Another thumbs up for the Hella Vision Plus. They are a huge upgrade from standard sealed beam. I decided not to do the E-code as they are not DOT approved and are very happy with the Vision Plus. You'll have to decide on the condition of your switches and wires but the relay setup will eliminate any question if you have the time.

[JSBriggs]

ARB (and others) make a relay kit that routes power direct form the battery (with an inline fuse) to the lights so that you arent running all the power through the switch. that alone makes the stock 55/60 brighter. Once you have the relays, you can run then no-DOT super bright ones without fear of leting the smoke out of the stock wiring.

-Jeff

[TSR53]

I found a DIY wiring diagram that is very similar to how I built my European H4/H1 light set up. Basically, use a Bosch 30A relay for each low and high beam light. Only difference in this version is a clever fuse block (rather than my one fuse). Hopefully this will keep some of you guys busy over the holidays. Let the solder, rosin and heat shrink smoke away!

http://www.traxide.com.au/DATA/HLWD.gif
Thanks go to the Australian Land Rovers Club down under for this! (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/21906-project-2-headlight-wiring-up-grade.html) link here (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/21906-project-2-headlight-wiring-up-grade.html)

[Blueboy]

whenever I see diagrams like that I remember why chasing electrons (or a EE) convinced me to become a Civil instead.

colors look nice though!


Jaime

[Jim-ME]

I don't understand why you would want to or need to keep one of the original headlight plugs. Can someone explain?
Thanks,
Jim

[greenmeanie]

I don't understand why you would want to or need to keep one of the original headlight plugs. Can someone explain?
Thanks,
Jim

You have to keep some of the original wiring so that the smoke has somewhere to escape from so that you know it's still a Rover?

[TSR53]

Hi Jim,

Based on the above wiring diagram, you don't actually need to keep the original headlamp plug itself. The original headlamp plug wires are what toggle the relays on and off (your switch at the dashboard) and would make it easier to just keep the original plug there to stuff some spades into. Although, that may lead to some voltage loss using original connectors ? - these however don't carry the load... You could cut the plug off and attach the wires directly to the relay if you like, but then you would never be able to go back to original if you wanted.

[TSR53]

You have to keep some of the original wiring so that the smoke has somewhere to escape from so that you know it's still a Rover?Of course what was I thinking!

[Jim-ME]

So if I understand correctly, you can stick spade terminals into the original headlight plug to save having to run new wires to the switch and the dimmer switch?
Jim

[TSR53]

Well, not really.

What you do is just keep your stock existing dash dimmer switch, plug ends and all the original wiring to and from the headlamp plugs as is. If you do need to make repairs to this wiring run, now would be the time. You won't need to modify it any, only keeping it a stock setup.

Assuming you are going to build up the four relay setup I posted, your original dashboard switches and wiring to the headlamps stay intact. Instead of plugging into the headlamps, you unplug them and then they just plug into the new wires to toggle on the relays.

This makes the relays take the full load of higher wattage bulbs instead of the dash switch.

Example would be *after* this is built and installed, when you toggle on your lights, the original stock dash switch sends 12v to the relay to then toggle on the lights, rather than turning the lights on directly.

Hopefully this helps you.

[Jim-ME]

Thanks, got it.
Jim

[JSBriggs]

So if I understand correctly, you can stick spade terminals into the original headlight plug to save having to run new wires to the switch and the dimmer switch?
Jim

That is correct. Your switches (headlight and dimmer) use the origional wireing to power the relay. The ammount of power neede to for this is minimal (much less that powering teh bulbs). Unless you existing wiring is bad, I would run spades into the stock headlight plug.

-Jeff

[Jim-ME]

Can anybody convert the mm wire size to gauge? Also, do Rovers have negative or positive switched headlights? Thanks,
Jim

[Jim-ME]

Back again. If I go with the 4 relay setup as diagrammed, which relays; specifically how many amps 15 or 30?; should I buy?
Thanks,
Jim

[TSR53]

All the high-performance lighting I've crafted over the last 30+ years, these Hella 30 AMP relays have worked really well.
http://www.roversnorth.com/store/images/Product/medium/RNC715.JPG
http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-2412-relay-12-volt-30-amp.aspx (http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-2412-relay-12-volt-30-amp.aspx)

[Jim-ME]

Order for 4 on it's way.
Jim

[mechman]

You just unplug the original plugs from the lights and leave them hanging, you don't remove the stock wiring. This is a shortcut to wiring back to the switch. This way, you don't have to pull the dash to drop in the kit.

Clever...

Mech

[mechman]

Whoops, seems I missed page 2. Doh!!!

Mech

[Enigma]

Any suggestions as to an actual location under the bonnet to instal 4 relays?

[Jim-ME]

That's going to be the real fun part plus I'm going to add a 6 fuse fuse block at the same time for expansion. I'll post pictures when I get it done.
Jim

[SwampRat]

painless makes a harness just like that with waterproof hella relays. You don't have to modify stock wiring and can remove it later if you like. I mounted the relays on the radiator support next to the battery.

[Jim-ME]

Too late. I've already ordered the parts. Let the fun begin!
Jim

[Jim-ME]

Am I just being cheap or are 4 relays for headlights a little extreme? I can see one relay for low beams and one for high beams but are 4 that much better. Than way I will have a relay for my to be purchased worklight and a relay for the Hella fogs I plan to add down the road as well.
Jim

[greenmeanie]

Well Power = Amps X Volts = basic electric theory. You have a 12V system which in theory could put out as much as 14.4V. For this we'll say you'll get 12.5V at the relay with a healthy system. Now for arguements sake lets say you are using 60W bulbs as I can't remember any real values right now. That = 4.8 Amps per bulb. For giggles lets say you went with 100W bulbs you would get almost 8 Amps per bulb. With 2 bulbs that means you're pulling a grand total of 16 Amps.

If you purchased te 30 A relays shown above you should have plenty of margin to run both bulbs of a single relay.

[Jim-ME]

Thanks Green, That is kind of what I thought.
Jim

[JayGoss]

The auto shippers are dropping off my new-to-me 1960 Series II tomorrow. For authenticity's sake I had some original, sealed beam Lucas headlights installed as well as a rebuilt generator. There have been a lot of elk and deer near my house lately so I'm interested in increasing night visibility. The wiring harness is new, so I'm not too worried about dropping in some Vision Plus'- I'm just wondering if the generator will be able to keep up with the increased current draw of the more powerful lights. Anyone out there have experience running the stock generator with lighting improvements?

[jac04]

^^ I ran the e-code Hella headlights on my 63 with a generator - no problems at all. The ammeter never fell below zero unless the heater motor was running on high speed. Just remember to use the 55/65W bulbs and not the higher power ones like the 55/100 or 80/100.

[Jim-ME]

If you run the Hella replacements from RN you should be fine. The bulb wattage isn't any different than regular sealed beams. The light output is better due to a better design of the lens and reflector.
Jim

[JayGoss]

Thanks guys- appreciate the input.