Fried headlight wire

[east high]

The lead wire for my headlights completely fried behind the dash on the way home. Big *poof* of smoke and everything. One of the previous owners replaced the combo ign/light switch with two separate switches (complete with hack wiring), which I've since reverted.

What's weird is that only the length of wire that I spliced back in was fried. The original wiring is fine. I'm pretty sure it's the same gauge. What would cause this? Crappy connectors, or wire? Bad dimmer switch? Bad ground?

I did hit a puddle that night and I was using the wipers, heater and lights when it blew.

[greenmeanie]

Ah you have just rediscovered the fusible link in the wiring harness. Unfortunately probably the greatest drawback to the original Lucas electric system is the almost complete lack of fuses which means that if you get a short you will than find the weakest part of the harness with the classic smoke speical effects.

My bet is that the moisture found a path to create a short in your lighting circuit and you just discovered that the wire you put in was rated lower than the stock stuff.

When you replace it this time I would add at least an in line fuse. If I was doing things properly I would add an aftermarket fuse block for all circuits to the harness and originality be damned.

[thixon]

Amen to the above answer from Green.

If it were me, I'd take this opportunity to add the fuse block (or re-wire with an aftermarket hot-rod harness).

My 2 cents.

[east high]

Thanks guys. I'll add an inline fuse to the light circuit for the time being while I research a fuse block. I'll check the dimmer switch for moisture too. Kinda dumb that the two fuses in the original system are mungo huge. What's the point of a fuse if it doesn't pop first :rolleyes:

Can anyone suggest a smart amp for the inline fuse?

[Jeff Aronson]

The problem for Series Rover owners is that the headlights were not part of the fused system, like the brake lights, directionals and parking lights.

It's possible that your wire chafed at the place where it exit the dash and goes through the bulkhead. It would then short out on the metal at some point.

The recommended solutions are great, as would be a relay.

Jeff

[mechman]

I agree wholeheartedly with the Green man. Follow your wires from the switch out to the other ends and look for a short. An inline fuse is a WONDERFUL way to protect the circuit. Clean your grounds and terminals and you should be good with 15 to 20 amps (I use 15A per headlight, each fused separately).

Gotta love the Lucas system. One fuse protects the dome light, the other protects everything else! That way, when the main fuse blows, you can still see to replace it. And lest we forget, the three positions of a Land Rover switch are Dim, Flicker and Smoke! :P


Mech