anti-seize grease on track bar?

[LaneRover]

I am replacing the track rod and ball joints on my 'mostly' 1966 88. I am mostly replacing the rod because I can't for the life of me get the separate the old ball joints from the old track rod as they seem to have 'become one'.

So to keep the new bits from rusting themselves into one piece I was thinking that since you clamp the ball joints in, it wouldn't hurt to give the threads a bit of anti-seize copper grease. Or would that be a bad idea?

Brent

[mechman]

IMO not a bad idea at all. I swear by anti-seize, especially on things I may need to loosen or turn before they need to be replaced. Head bolts? NO. Track rod ball joints? OH MY YES.

Mech

[BGGB]

i had a similar problem and when i replaced i put on some anti corrosion stuff...still seems to be holding. i would use new clamps and make sure there tight.

[SafeAirOne]

I'd definitely use anti-seize here. I also wouldn't give up on separating the old rod and ends yet. I'd get a can of good penetrating oil, a big pipe (monkey) wrench and the longest bar I could effectively put on it. Alternate the pipe wrench between the ends of the rod--too much energy is absorbed by the rod twisting if you do it in the middle. I also might try to open up the slots on the ends of the rod a bit.

I also might brush up a little bit on the latest expletives so they will be fresh when you need them during this job.

[greenmeanie]

I've just finished putting the steering linkage bars on my 109 and they are anti siezed within an inch of their life. Of course, these are a set of Mercedes Jim's finest DOM bars which use stop nuts instead of clamps. No corrosion, no bending and no silly clamps.

[LaneRover]

Thanks for all the replies! I thought it was a good idea but everyonce in awhile what seems like a good idea can bite you in the keister! (think subprime mortgages).

I haven't completely given up on the $116 threaded end pipe. I am going to continue with penetrating oil and bigger wrenches or pipes but wanted to get the Rover back on the road. If I can get it apart at some point it will go towards the pile of not perfect but perfectly useable parts - if it is still perfectly useable!

[Jeff Aronson]

Just make certain that you check the nuts every so often. Those pastes and compounds are great for preventing future problems on parts that are likely to be removed, but their heft also can lure you into thinking you've tightened something well when there's still some turns left.

Pipe wrenches, vices and quarts of penetrating oil will often do the trick.

Jeff

[LaneRover]

Just make certain that you check the nuts every so often. Those pastes and compounds are great for preventing future problems on parts that are likely to be removed, but their heft also can lure you into thinking you've tightened something well when there's still some turns left.

Pipe wrenches, vices and quarts of penetrating oil will often do the trick.

Jeff

Agreed, I do have new clamps and nuts to keep everything tight

[greenmeanie]

The other thing to do when you have the stock steering linkage apart is look down the tube and check for corrosion. Moisture gets trapped in there and they rot from inside out. A few years ago there was a couple of blokes who were well known in the LR community who were killed when the linkage bar failed on their truck.

[LaneRover]

FYI FWIW- I read a manual (go figure) that specifically mentioned oiling or greasing the threads of the ball joints before you put them in. It wasn't the green bible but one similar to the Haynes manual.

Brent

[JSBriggs]

Agreed, I do have new clamps and nuts to keep everything tight

Its not a huge deal, but I prefer the earlier cast clamps to the later stamped ones.

-Jeff