Jaeger Part Sourcing & Low Compression

[oestlarsen]

First posting - thanks for accomodating!
Looking for options for my Ser. iia (1967) speedo. The hairspring is mangled and I prefer repair over replacement. Do you know where to source Jaeger parts, and or a reasonable landy speedo rebuild service?
Also - since I am new to posting, looking to validate theory of compression.
1. Compression low, but consistent (cheap gauge may not indicate accurate pressure)
2. Plenty of power - no issues pulling in any gear...(I have had other Rovers before - seems to be similar)
3. Smokes quite a bit...
4. Idles great - runs great
= Theory of worn valve guides (not rings)...plan to replace head w/ unleaded 8/1 head.
Thoughts?
Thanks!!
Carl

[jac04]

For the speedo, try:
http://www.nisonger.com/

[Jeff Aronson]

[quote=oestlarsen]First posting - thanks for accomodating!
Looking for options for my Ser. iia (1967) speedo. The hairspring is mangled and I prefer repair over replacement. Do you know where to source Jaeger parts, and or a reasonable landy speedo rebuild service?

I sent my II-A speedometer to Rovers North, who in turn sent it out for repair [I'm guessing Nisonger]. Depending on your wheel size, they may have one in stock, too.

Also - since I am new to posting, looking to validate theory of compression.
1. Compression low, but consistent (cheap gauge may not indicate accurate pressure)

As long as you're above 110 or so and consistent between cylinders, you should be ok.

2. Plenty of power - no issues pulling in any gear...(I have had other Rovers before - seems to be similar)

Probably a reflection of what you pointed out above.

3. Smokes quite a bit...

All the time, on start up, on acceleration? White, blue or black smoke? Different colors can mean different issues.

4. Idles great - runs great
= Theory of worn valve guides (not rings)...plan to replace head w/ unleaded 8/1 head.

If you pour some oil down the spark plug hole after taking a compression reading, and if the psi reading rises,then you probably have bad rings. A blowby or leak down tester would provide the same information.

Have you checked your coolant level? Is there any sign of coolant in the oil?

If no psi change with oil, then worn valve guides would seem more likely. This causes smoking more on start up than in operation, though. Usually by the time they wear out, the valves are wearing out, too, so a new head and valves make sense. I think any rebuilt head would be an 8:1.

When and if you remove the head, you might try and see if you have any lateral movement of the piston. That would be another signal of ring problems.

Good luck!

[Oscar]

Did you check compression warm? Green bible states it can be 25+ psi low if cold. I made the same mistake.

[oestlarsen]

Sorry for late update -

Compression:
Well, I finally got around to doing what I was supposed to do - check compression on warm (not hot) motor, w/ throttle to the floor. BIG change - now reads 110 (assume consistent across cylinders since cold measurements were very consistent across all cylinders and all plugs looked great and alike.
Smoking:
Behaves the same, really. Stinky/smokey at start (wife "loves" the smell it leaves in house through garage). Once warm, and driving, barely noticable, BUT if car idles and you rev it - smoke again. Odd.
Power:
I would venture to say very good - pulls, lugs...as other rovers I have driven and owned of same vintage. No issues here.

On the Jaeger parts front, I decided to go Scottish. Most Scotts I know don't fix their landies until they are busted and even so - the most "economical" way possible. So - I sourced an old speedo in the UK - working, but looking pretty maingy (insides were good). Sanded and painted the housing, ring etc. Considering the truck looks like it sat in a field for 6 years (which it did), not bad.
Thanks for the feedback.
Carl

PS - I see a lot of folks painting parts with very nice automotive black - any recommendations on brand/type?

[Jeff Aronson]

You may have blowby in your cylinders. The even compression is good but 110 is on the low side. When you increase the rpm and get smoke, you might be pushing oil past the rings, and thus the smoke.

You saw the power feels "good" but that's not the best test. Here's a suggestion. Run your compression test again, but this time, once warmed up, run a compression test again. Then pull a spark plug and pour a little oil down the spark plug hole. Then test the compression again. If the compression shoots up, then you have blowby - either worn pistons or worn rings.

If it shoots up, then your cylinders are ok but you probably have worn valve guides.

All this assumes that you've changed the points, gapped them correctly and timed the car first.

Good luck and let us know,

Jeff

[109 Pretender]

Sounds like you got the speedo issue solved and from your last post - compression is sufficient (equal across all cylinders - or within 10% of each other is considered normal). Your symptoms about the smoking indicate worn valves and guides as mentioned. Your solution for the head will fix it most likely. Good luck! :thumb-up:

cheers!

[Eric W S]

You saw the power feels "good" but that's not the best test. Here's a suggestion. Run your compression test again, but this time, once warmed up, run a compression test again. Then pull a spark plug and pour a little oil down the spark plug hole. Then test the compression again. If the compression shoots up, then you have blowby - either worn pistons or worn rings.

If it shoots up, then your cylinders are ok but you probably have worn valve guides.



Leave the oil in the can. Buy a vacuum gauge and learn how to use it. It will tell you an enormous amount of information, such as valve issues, correct timing, and if you have blow by. It's easy and clean.

Matco has a nice one for 50 bucks in its own case...

[oestlarsen]

Got the old gal up to 115 PSI running normal hot temperature. This is w/ pretty cheap autostore brand gauge - no valve adjustment or otherwise fiddling w/ motor. Finally got my speedo installed and I was quickly "flying" at 45...so as long as the occasional bystander wears a breather..no worry on the light smoke for now :-) Maybe xmas will bring me a new head.

I had question on my Dynamo:
1. Warning light on constantly - not charging (light is on when turning key, also on when only key turned)
2. PO ran wires from Dynamo (2 yellow ones) to the POSITIVE (Frame connected) battery pole. For the life of me, I can't find this in any wire diagram.

You guys know if there is direct connection between the Dynamo and the battery, and if so - if this goes to POSITIVE termimal on a positive earth series (67 iia)? I suspect my voltage regulator may be culprit, but trying to find the correct baseline connection setup first.

Thanks!!
Carl

[SafeAirOne]

You guys know if there is direct connection between the Dynamo and the battery, and if so - if this goes to POSITIVE termimal on a positive earth series (67 iia)? I suspect my voltage regulator may be culprit, but trying to find the correct baseline connection setup first.

Well...Looking at the RN-supplied wiring diagram (here: http://www.roversnorth.com/store/images/category/medium/LR-page83.pdf ),

It would appear that the yellow wire goes from the dynamo to the "D" post on the regulator. There is also a wire coming from the "D" post to the charge warning lamp.

The yellow/green wire goes from the dynamo to the "F" post on the regulator.

[oestlarsen]

Quick Update on Findings:
As noted, compression was recorded in the 115 range, and she's running great and pulling well. However, the odd smoking is still there. Well, in my efforts to troubleshoot some PO wiring, I disconnected my oil temperature switch (sending unit). This is connected by green/yellow wires. What was odd was that this unit was connected to my WATER temp gauge and it seems to record temperature well. Odd.

When I removed the sending unit - coolant came out - not oil. I thought I had mixed up water temp unit and oil unit, so I removed the temp unit too for good measure. Coolant came out of that one too (as expected).

I don't seem to have either oil in coolant or coolant in oil...is it possible to compromise the oil pressure switch line w/ water and still have no other symptoms? Could this be why I experience white smoke at times?

[S11A]

PS - I see a lot of folks painting parts with very nice automotive black - any recommendations on brand/type?

Carl,

Try eastwood.com - they have a large selection of paints and other coatings for vintage vehicles.