Stuck Brake Drum

[jrcotner]

The front right wheel cylinder stuck on my 1978 S3 109". I attempted to take the brake drum off to assess the wheel cylinder, and it is stuck fast. Brake adjusters are fully loosened, and I tried gentle to moderate hammering with no luck. The drum was pretty hot when I started. any ideas on how to remove the brake drum?

Thanks,

John Cotner
Falmouth, VA

[jp-]

More info needed. Did this happen while driving? Have you recently replaced the brake master cylinder? How far down does the brake pedal move before feeling tight?

I suspect a secondary problem. A lockup can be caused by excessive sitting, or by something else.

[thixon]

You can rent a puller big enough to fit around the drums.

JP's right, more info needed.

Have you been driving it? is there another prob with the brakes? Have you tried opening the bleeder to release any pressure against the drums? Are the shoes old as hell (they can get a groove that will hold the drum in place)?

[alaskajosh]

Please forgive me if this suggestion is obvious to you.. just trying to rule out first things first--

I'm sure you've removed the (three, generally) slot head counter-sunk bolts. Then take one of them and thread it into a forth hole that is threaded by not countersunk. Drive that screw in while beating on the drum like a mad-man with a soft faced mallet.
Driving that screw in (careful, the slot likes to wallow out) will almost certainly start the ball rolling.

I can't think when mine have ever come off easy (even if I just had them off a few days prior) and I always have a moment of "something's wrong here" even though experience tells me different.

Again, I apologize if I'm way beneath you here-

Kind regards, Josh

[jopa]

you can always dissassemble the hub- take off the flange, unfasten the spindle nuts/lockwashers and remove the whole unit...drum and hub together. Then whack away with a soft faced hammer, etc...it will come free. J

[thixon]

you can always dissassemble the hub- take off the flange, unfasten the spindle nuts/lockwashers and remove the whole unit...drum and hub together. Then whack away with a soft faced hammer, etc...it will come free. J

Excellent idea.

[I Leak Oil]

Penetrating oil, perseverance, a couple pry bars and a hammer. This is a common problem but takes some effort. Work it baby!
Jason T.

[Jeff Aronson]

First, make certain the adjuster is slack.

Then, use the threaded hole [the open one] in the drum; it takes a unique sized bolt, which naturally, the size of which I cannot remember. It's smaller in diameter than the small screws that help center the drum.

When you ratchet in that bolt, you will feel the drum move outward. I had the same problem with my II-A in the past, but this really did work.

The drum kind of corrodes in place. You can't get much leverage on the drum from the rear, but you can usually get a small pry bar or long screwdriver to help move it off the linings.

Good luck,

Jeff

[rwollschlager]

When you ratchet in that bolt, you will feel the drum move outward. I had the same problem with my II-A in the past, but this really did work.



This did the trick on my stage 1. However the drum was so stuck that the middle moved outward while the outside edge stuck and the drum cracked. The other three came off fine and in one piece.

[jrcotner]

I drive the truck at least on the weekends, and a few times to work each week. The truck didn't pull into the direction of the stuck cylinder, and stopped normally. I didn't realize there was a problem until I got home and there was smoke coming form the wheel. I removed the wheel, slackened the brake adjusters (the wheel turns freely), and removed the countersunk screw. I hosed the studs and hub with brake cleaner, but still no luck. I pulled off the hub to inspect the outer bearing, and it appeared okay. However, I think the seal is shot since oil came out when I removed the hub.

I think I'll try a big puller. Any suggestions on a good drum puller?

[I Leak Oil]

If the wheel is turning easily it sounds like it is just stuck to the hub. Very normal. Did you try using the jacking screw?

If you removed the drive flange and oil comes out that's a good thing. If no oil comes out that's not a good thing (unless the wheel bearing is packed with grease).
Jason T.