Stuck Brake Drum

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  • jrcotner
    Low Range
    • Apr 2008
    • 5

    Stuck Brake Drum

    The front right wheel cylinder stuck on my 1978 S3 109". I attempted to take the brake drum off to assess the wheel cylinder, and it is stuck fast. Brake adjusters are fully loosened, and I tried gentle to moderate hammering with no luck. The drum was pretty hot when I started. any ideas on how to remove the brake drum?

    Thanks,

    John Cotner
    Falmouth, VA
  • jp-
    5th Gear
    • Oct 2006
    • 981

    #2
    More info needed. Did this happen while driving? Have you recently replaced the brake master cylinder? How far down does the brake pedal move before feeling tight?

    I suspect a secondary problem. A lockup can be caused by excessive sitting, or by something else.
    61 II 109" Pickup (Restomod, 350 small block, TR4050)
    66 IIA 88" Station Wagon (sold)
    66 IIA 109" Pickup (Restomod, 5MGE, R380)
    67 IIA 109" NADA Wagon (sold)
    88, 2.5TD 110 RHD non-hicap pickup

    -I used to know everything there was to know about Land Rovers; then I joined the RN Bulletin Board.

    Comment

    • thixon
      5th Gear
      • Jul 2007
      • 909

      #3
      You can rent a puller big enough to fit around the drums.

      JP's right, more info needed.

      Have you been driving it? is there another prob with the brakes? Have you tried opening the bleeder to release any pressure against the drums? Are the shoes old as hell (they can get a groove that will hold the drum in place)?
      Travis
      '66 IIa 88

      Comment

      • alaskajosh
        2nd Gear
        • Sep 2007
        • 208

        #4
        Please forgive me if this suggestion is obvious to you.. just trying to rule out first things first--

        I'm sure you've removed the (three, generally) slot head counter-sunk bolts. Then take one of them and thread it into a forth hole that is threaded by not countersunk. Drive that screw in while beating on the drum like a mad-man with a soft faced mallet.
        Driving that screw in (careful, the slot likes to wallow out) will almost certainly start the ball rolling.

        I can't think when mine have ever come off easy (even if I just had them off a few days prior) and I always have a moment of "something's wrong here" even though experience tells me different.

        Again, I apologize if I'm way beneath you here-

        Kind regards, Josh

        Comment

        • jopa
          Low Range
          • Nov 2006
          • 43

          #5
          you can always dissassemble the hub- take off the flange, unfasten the spindle nuts/lockwashers and remove the whole unit...drum and hub together. Then whack away with a soft faced hammer, etc...it will come free. J

          Comment

          • thixon
            5th Gear
            • Jul 2007
            • 909

            #6
            Originally posted by jopa
            you can always dissassemble the hub- take off the flange, unfasten the spindle nuts/lockwashers and remove the whole unit...drum and hub together. Then whack away with a soft faced hammer, etc...it will come free. J
            Excellent idea.
            Travis
            '66 IIa 88

            Comment

            • I Leak Oil
              Overdrive
              • Nov 2006
              • 1796

              #7
              Penetrating oil, perseverance, a couple pry bars and a hammer. This is a common problem but takes some effort. Work it baby!
              Jason T.
              Jason
              "Clubs are for Chumps" Club president

              Comment

              • Jeff Aronson
                Moderator
                • Oct 2006
                • 569

                #8
                First, make certain the adjuster is slack.

                Then, use the threaded hole [the open one] in the drum; it takes a unique sized bolt, which naturally, the size of which I cannot remember. It's smaller in diameter than the small screws that help center the drum.

                When you ratchet in that bolt, you will feel the drum move outward. I had the same problem with my II-A in the past, but this really did work.

                The drum kind of corrodes in place. You can't get much leverage on the drum from the rear, but you can usually get a small pry bar or long screwdriver to help move it off the linings.

                Good luck,

                Jeff
                Jeff Aronson
                Vinalhaven, ME 04863
                '66 Series II-A SW 88"
                '66 Series II-A HT 88"
                '80 Triumph TR-7 Spider
                '80 Triumph Spitfire
                '66 Corvair Monza Coupe
                http://www.landroverwriter.com

                Comment

                • rwollschlager
                  5th Gear
                  • Sep 2007
                  • 583

                  #9
                  Originally posted by Jeff Aronson

                  When you ratchet in that bolt, you will feel the drum move outward. I had the same problem with my II-A in the past, but this really did work.
                  This did the trick on my stage 1. However the drum was so stuck that the middle moved outward while the outside edge stuck and the drum cracked. The other three came off fine and in one piece.
                  ------------------------------------------------
                  72 SIII 88
                  67 SIIA 109
                  82 SIII Stage 1 V8
                  -- http://www.youtube.com/barnfind88 --

                  Comment

                  • jrcotner
                    Low Range
                    • Apr 2008
                    • 5

                    #10
                    I drive the truck at least on the weekends, and a few times to work each week. The truck didn't pull into the direction of the stuck cylinder, and stopped normally. I didn't realize there was a problem until I got home and there was smoke coming form the wheel. I removed the wheel, slackened the brake adjusters (the wheel turns freely), and removed the countersunk screw. I hosed the studs and hub with brake cleaner, but still no luck. I pulled off the hub to inspect the outer bearing, and it appeared okay. However, I think the seal is shot since oil came out when I removed the hub.

                    I think I'll try a big puller. Any suggestions on a good drum puller?

                    Comment

                    • I Leak Oil
                      Overdrive
                      • Nov 2006
                      • 1796

                      #11
                      If the wheel is turning easily it sounds like it is just stuck to the hub. Very normal. Did you try using the jacking screw?

                      If you removed the drive flange and oil comes out that's a good thing. If no oil comes out that's not a good thing (unless the wheel bearing is packed with grease).
                      Jason T.
                      Jason
                      "Clubs are for Chumps" Club president

                      Comment

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