Galvanizing the Bulkhead

[crankin]

I am debating about galvanizing my bulkhead, but have heard some stories about how the high heat has warped the overall shape. Making it difficult to reinstall. The other thought is to aluminum oxide coat it...because it is at a lower temperature.

My bulkhead as had the floor pan replacement pieces welded back in and I had a guy break the vent pieces for me and welded those back in, too. I am a little concerned the it all might break apart. I know that it all depends on how strong my welds are...but are there any worries?

The guys that will be galvanizing it for me have said that they are not really sure how the high heat will affect the overall shape and wanted me to be aware that warping might happen...

I know that a lot of us have galvanized the bulkhead and I would like to hear if there are any "horror" stories with it warping or welds breaking apart.

[Leslie]

Mine's galvanized.

Where I cut out the footwells and welded in replacements, and the feet that bolt to the outrigger, no problems there, my welds held fine.

The flat sheet-sides of the new footwell pieces did bow a little... they held where welded, and, once pedals, etc., are reinstalled, it wasn't an issue at all, but, yes, the flat metal had a bit of a light buckle to it.

When refitting it to the new chassis, where the bulkhead feet are bolted to the bulkhead outriggers, it was snug... I had to use a chassis spreader to stretch the feet apart a little to line up the holes to get the bolts through. It all went fine, I wouldn't call it 'warpage', but, there are effects from being dunked in molten metal.

One other thing.... excess zinc runs off. The place that did mine, however it was dunked and pulled, I ended up with 'runs' on some of the surfaces where I wish there hadn't been. (Ike's galvanizer did a beautiful job, his bumper has a much nicer finish.... not that I regret mine, but, I wish I could have gotten my bulkhead across the country to them instead.)

[Eric W S]

Just have the vents painted with epoxy. You should be OK. They are near vertical, so rust on the actual vents would be low IMO.

My current bulkhead was galv'd and no issues at all. All depends on the care and attention given by the shop doing the Galv. Some are better than others.

I am also having my new Bulkhead galv'd by Ike. Don't anticipate much issue and a little warpage doesn't concerm me at all.

[KevinNY]

Molten zinc is only about 800 degress F. Welding involves much higher temps. Just ask the galvanizer to air dry the bulkhead instead of quenching it.

[I Leak Oil]

My bulkhead was neither welded on or galvanised and after coming off the original frame it was still twisted and took some effort to reassemble to the new frame. The warping issue, while it can happen, I feel is far to overblown.
Jason T.

[Tim Smith]

My bulkhead was neither welded on or galvanised and after coming off the original frame it was still twisted and took some effort to reassemble to the new frame. The warping issue, while it can happen, I feel is far to overblown.I too had this. Long before cutting out the old kick pans, I found refitting the bulkhead to be wrestle. After the new pans were in, it actually fit better. Dumb luck I suppose.

I think you want to take care of excess welding slag as that attracts zinc. Or so I remember reading somewhere.

If you are really worried about it, you could fab up a frame to bolt the thing into. I'm thinking about it as I've got a few bulkheads that could use a dunk.
:D

[crankin]

Tim, that’s not a bad idea.

Well, I think that I am stressing over nothing. I will probably stay true to land rover and have another piece of steel that should have been galvanized from the factory galvanized.

[junkyddog11]

Molten zinc is only about 800 degress F. Welding involves much higher temps. Just ask the galvanizer to air dry the bulkhead instead of quenching it.

The warping comes from heating it up not cooling it down. By no means qualified metalurgist or anything but haved coated a pile of bulkheads and have found this to be the case.

If you want the nice "snowflake" look for the galvy a nice thin coating and little dimensional warpage build a frame and specify architectural finish which will be a short duration, quenched finish. Quenching does not warp, at least in my experience. The worst warped and worst looking finish I have had was with an air dry. Have had very minimal issues with parts that have been quenched. Issue seems to be the duration of the coating dip.

As for welding. Anything that will show should use a low silicon content wire as excess (3x) the zinc will build on normal (mig) wire leading to very odd looking welds. Especially anything that has been blended, ground flush. Learned that the hard way....and didn't take pictures.

[I Leak Oil]

That's some nice Rover **** ya got there Matt!
Jason T.

[Firemanshort]

Did I spy, with my little eye and Rover Drive?

[Tim Smith]

So Matt. You are saying that all my mig welding is going to have build up showing? If those areas are hidden, then it shouldn't really matter much. Right?

What about the electro galvanized foot pans? Should they get media blasted for the new dip or would the new dipping take to it as normal?

In your experience that is.

[junkyddog11]

if the welding doesn't show it doesn't bother me. No structural harm.
The galvanizer will "burn" (in the first dip) the electroplate off before recoating.

[junkyddog11]

That's some nice Rover **** ya got there Matt!
Jason T.

thanks. Customer truck. I only drive junk, and maintain it with bits out of the scrap trailer.

[junkyddog11]

Did I spy, with my little eye and Rover Drive?

That's a GKN electric OD. That truck has a 1.4:1 t-case, 4:10 gears and 32" tyres, and is being pulled around by a 300tdi. Geared somewhat low (by design, so as to give a nice low 1st as the owner frequently tows) and the OD gives a nice hwy speed, for when not towing..

[Tim Smith]

if the welding doesn't show it doesn't bother me. No structural harm.
The galvanizer will "burn" (in the first dip) the electroplate off before recoating.
Thanks Matt! This is helpful stuff for me, being a first timer.

As for the rust inside the boxing of the door posts, I imagine that gets removed somehow with the acid dipping?

[junkyddog11]

it will remove light rust, the sort of stuff that will appear shortly after sandblasting.

[crankin]

And from my understanding it will also remove paint...is that right?

[KevinNY]

My galvanizer wanted all paint and powdercoat removed before bringing it to them.

[Eric W S]

It all depends on the galv guy. I hve found a really good one locally in Chicago who will dip as an additional service. SOme of the others were like Kevin, they just wanted clean steal.

EwS

[Tim Smith]

So I suppose the really impossible bits to get, like inside the door posts, wouldn't really matter. Even if the rust wasn't removed completely, it would get covered up with the zinc and would pretty much become inert after that.

Right?

[Eric W S]

So I suppose the really impossible bits to get, like inside the door posts, wouldn't really matter. Even if the rust wasn't removed completely, it would get covered up with the zinc and would pretty much become inert after that.

Right?

Just have the bulkhead dipped, no worries about the nooks and crannies...

EwS