New Goodies / Showin' off

[Daurie]

Here's a picture of Ikes fantastic work. I came home to find it on my porch yesterday afternoon. Today I got crackin' early and here is the result. Warn 8274 for a steal off ebay, Viking 3/8" from Winchline.com and the bumper. All in all took about an hour and a half to install. Perfect fit. Thanks Ike! (sorry the pic is so big) PS I know the RH top bolt isn't grade 8. Lowes didn't have a 7/16 square nut. As soon as I take off the rad muff I'll pull of that bracket on the bottom of the rad panel.

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g72/Daurie/LandRover084.jpg

[telwyn]

Wow - that's nice! You'll have to change your avatar now. :thumb-up:

[luckyjoe]

Daurie,

Looks really good! Was there much effect on ride height with the bumper + winch? Are you running Para's?

Oh, and what tires are those?

Regards,

[siiirhd88]

Excellent! I have an identical winch and bumper coming from Ike, and I like the look. I am considering going to synthetic line, please let me know what you think of the Winchline.com stuff.

I had planned to put the winch and bumper on the wife's 109, but it will likely go on mine instead. :) I will need another one, I guess....

Bob

[Daurie]

Yeah I though about my avatar too! Definately needs an update. As far as ride height I'm gonna say ever so slightly lower. I have Rockt Mt. paras 2 leaf front 3 leaf rear. Rides a little high in the back but when I have on the hard top it levels out.

I have yet to use any synthetic winchline. This is my first. I saw the Viking line in Overland journal and those guys know their stuff. I don't believe they would advertize anything that was sub-par. All I can say is do your research. There are some places selling synthetic line advertized as simply Amsteel. You wan Amsteel-Blue. Both can be blue in color so don't be fooled. I also like that the viking came with a chaf guard and the optional "safety thimble" on the end.

The tires are BFG Mud Terrain KM-2 235/75-16. They have been great so far. Last time I got off in some deep stuff they pulled me right through.
I also spent half of that particular day recovering Disco's with lesser tires. :D

I can't say enough about the bumper. The fit was right on and the recessed fairlead is really trick. Very clean.

[CliftonRover]

very nice, I have seen those tires take trucks places never before thought possible...ok a bit much but they are great, and much quieter than the old bfg mt's.

[Bertha]

Yeah I though about my avatar too! Definately needs an update. As far as ride height I'm gonna say ever so slightly lower. I have Rockt Mt. paras 2 leaf front 3 leaf rear. Rides a little high in the back but when I have on the hard top it levels out.

I have yet to use any synthetic winchline. This is my first. I saw the Viking line in Overland journal and those guys know their stuff. I don't believe they would advertize anything that was sub-par. All I can say is do your research. There are some places selling synthetic line advertized as simply Amsteel. You wan Amsteel-Blue. Both can be blue in color so don't be fooled. I also like that the viking came with a chaf guard and the optional "safety thimble" on the end.

The tires are BFG Mud Terrain KM-2 235/75-16. They have been great so far. Last time I got off in some deep stuff they pulled me right through.
I also spent half of that particular day recovering Disco's with lesser tires. :D

I can't say enough about the bumper. The fit was right on and the recessed fairlead is really trick. Very clean.

Looks really nice, However, too bad you lost your crank hole. Does Ike build the bumper/winch mount higher so that the crank hole can be retained? It is very handy to have that ability.

[leafsprung]

Looking good Daurie! Glad you like it.


Bertha,

I make them to order. So I can put the mount in any position. You can retain the crank hole if you wish. Even with the mount pictured you can slide the crank through the fairlead with some of the rope unspooled and engage the crank in a pinch. As with any feature its a trade off. The best place to mount a winch is between the frame rails, so that during recovery you are pulling inline with the frame. The higher you mount the winch the more stress you place on the mountings and in turn the frame.

[badvibes]

Sweet looking bumper/winch set-up. One question, why a hawse instead of a roller fairlead? I only have experience with steel cable and rollers, does synthetic rope work better with a hawse?

Jeff

[Leslie]

One question, why a hawse instead of a roller fairlead? I only have experience with steel cable and rollers, does synthetic rope work better with a hawse?

Jeff,

Good question. With steel, rollers reduce friction. But, over time, the rollers will still get burred. So, you really need to get a new fairlead if you're going to be replacing a steel line with a synthetic, so the burs won't cut the rope.

One thing that can happen, is that the rope can get pulled over into the corner where the fairlead rollers are, and get pinched. So, when the synthetic lines started coming out, a lot of people went with a hawse to avoid that problem.

Some places have come out with replacement rollers for the fairlead, that are synthetic, that are gentler on the line than steel rollers. In the current RN News, Bill Burke had a comment regarding the issue with the line getting pinched in the rollers: he would just stuff a glove in the corner, which would prevent the line from getting pulled into that pinch-point. Also, as he pointed out, most pulls 'shouldn't' pull the line over where it would get caught.

[Leslie]

Oh, to finish the thought.....

Yeah, a roller fairlead with synthetic rollers would be 'best', with and adjustment of technique to prevent it from pinching into the corner. But, a roller fairlead isn't cheap, nor are the synthetic rollers.... an aluminum hawse, that won't pinch the line, is a less expensive route if you don't have a roller fairlead. But, if you're buying a new winch, it'd probably come with one, so, it shouldn't be that big of a deal....

In my case, I've got a Koenig winch that didn't have a fairlead, and I've got a synthetic line for it, so, I used an aluminum hawse for it.... but, if money wasn't an issue, a new roller fairlead with synthetic rollers would be the cat's meow....

[leafsprung]

Hawse fairleads are also tougher, lighter, they have no moving parts to damage and bind, and are less inexpensive to replace. I went through three roller fairleads on the front of my series one before I started using hawse fairleads. The original hawse I installed is still there. I use UHMW fairleads with rope. There can be no burs to cut the rope with this type of fairlead. Even the aluminum ones need to be inspected carefully for burrs that might easily cut the rope.

[pvkd]

Here's a picture of Ikes fantastic work. I came home to find it on my porch yesterday afternoon. Today I got crackin' early and here is the result. Warn 8274 for a steal off ebay, Viking 3/8" from Winchline.com and the bumper. All in all took about an hour and a half to install. Perfect fit. Thanks Ike! (sorry the pic is so big) PS I know the RH top bolt isn't grade 8. Lowes didn't have a 7/16 square nut. As soon as I take off the rad muff I'll pull of that bracket on the bottom of the rad panel.

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g72/Daurie/LandRover084.jpg

Really nice picture. The truck and Ike's work looks great! I am planning on one of his bumpers for my 109 when I get the cash together.

But living in Southern California - have you converted the 2.25 to battery power or something?

[Blueboy]

looks great!!!

I've used rope now for about 7 years now and would not go back to wire.

Place I bought mine is: http://www.rockstomper.com/catalog/recovery/ropes.htm

I've also bought the al. hawse from them although after reading Bill's article in the latest RN News, maybe I didn't need to.

In any case, it is great stuff and just so easy/safe to use.

Of course you always have to be careful when winching.

Jaime