Can only think of moving forward....

[rwollschlager]

Those snow banks in parking lots can be deadly. I got stuck on one about three feet from the edge and I tried to rock it back and forth. When i put in reverse it made a loud BANG and popped out of gear. Once i got pulled out of the snow reverse did not work any more. I let the clutch out and i hear a snap crackles and pops and it jumps out of gear, but no reverse movement.

All of the other gears work fine 1-4 and the truck is a 72 series III 88. When I drain the Transmission oil later I'll take pictures of what comes out of the oil. Any ideas what I broke and what I have to do to fix it?

[greenmeanie]

Layshaft rear bearing. Mine went recently at a shopping center car park and there was much amusement from some onlookers as I pushed her out of her spot, used the hand crank to get her going and then jumped in and drove off.

In this case your truck will drive forward but you'll be chewing up the back end of the layshaft doing it.

[Mercedesrover]

Could be the reverse idler gear too.

[I Leak Oil]

Reverse Idler gear is a common problem. There is really only one way to find out and that's to open it up. Chances are there is nothing that can be fixed without opening it anyway. My condolences...
Jason T.

[rwollschlager]

Reverse Idler gear is a common problem. There is really only one way to find out and that's to open it up. Chances are there is nothing that can be fixed without opening it anyway. My condolences...
Jason T.


So i take it out comes the seat box and interior and out comes the transmission? I do have a bunch of old series III transmissions that should be in working order they have just been outside for the last 15 or so years left over from my dads 109 rebuild. This is going to suck.... but i guess this is what i get for being a dumbass in the first place.

[Jeff Aronson]

Nothing dumb about bad luck :). Yes, the floors and seatbox need to come out. If you have a Series III, the center crossmember should be removable rather than welded on. You can lift the car and drop the transmission, or lift the transmission out of the car.

If I could rebuilt a transmission, you can. The problem with using an uknown transmission is obvious - you don't know the condition of what's there. You might consider taking the risk of dropping in another one and then rebuilding your existing one.

While you have the transmission out of the car, it's a good time to look at the clutch plates and replace them.

Good luck and let us know of your progress,

Jeff

[Terrys]

If the gearbox you are going to put in has been sitting around (especially outdoors) make sure you take some emory or crocus cloth and clean the input shaft to a smooth finish. The end of the input shaft that fits into the pilot bushing should be bright metal, or you'll eat up the bronze bushing and have to start all over again. The splines should also be as clean as you can get them so the clutch disc is free to move, or you will glaze either the flywheel or pressure plate.

[rwollschlager]

Thank you all for the advice!

I am going to use one of the old transmissions lying around and rebuild that one and clean it up and remove all the surface rust before I even disassemble my rover.

Which is easier: dropping my transmission or lifting it out. I have access to a garage with a lift so i could drop it out. I will have to check about that removable cross-member. that might be a lifesaver!

-Rob

[SafeAirOne]

Which is easier: dropping my transmission or lifting it out.

I've only had to do mine once, but I found it quite easy to pull the seat box and transmission hump and use an engine hoist to R&R the transmission and transfer case simultaneously.

[teechizpet]

I've tried it both ways and I found dropping it in with a hoist was easier. It was much harder to manoeuver from underneath. It also gives you some wiggle room which will be required when sliding it out and putting it back. All in all it's not that complicated it 's just mostly grunt work. Be very careful the transmission is heavy enough to crush anything under it should it slip from the lift!

[CliftonRover]

Rob, thats too bad... It sounds like its your reverse idler gear, I have done a few of them and there are little tricks that make the job easier. the rear layshaft bearing race is the toughest. you need to drill a small hole in the back of the tranny lined up with the race to punch it out backwards. this is a scary thing you don't want to have to drill more than one hole. before you decide on what tranny you want to rebuild check out the suffix letters on the sides of the boxes. I have been told to generally avoid suffix A boxes. also if sitting outside the water can get in throught the small hole in the round steel insert in the top of the tranny.

[rwollschlager]

Good luck and let us know of your progress,

Jeff

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aoF2aTqvxdE

[rwollschlager]

heres what i got done this weekend.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SrOGfe4NC5I

[Drain Rovers2]

I love how that lawn tractor pulls the series with no problem...

[Tim Smith]

Looking good Rob.

Don't worry about it taking longer than expected. This is your first time getting into the truck and you are still finding out which bolts turn and which bolts don't. The more jobs you get into with this, the more you'll get to be an old hand at it.

[SafeAirOne]

In one of those photos, it looks as if you've removed the door by taking the screws out of the forward half of the hinge. If so, you've done well. I had to drill those screws out on mine because they corrode to the anchor bolts on the inside of the doorpost. Most folks find it easier to take the bolts out of the rear half of the hinge (the one that goes through the door).

[rwollschlager]

A bent mirror bracket prevented me from taking out the bolts through the back half on the top hinge. For the bottom hinge i undid the ones through the door.

As for the expected time of completion i knew it was going to take way longer once i realised i had spent a whole day and just taken off the seat box. I had found all the bolts holding it on except for two, on the floor boards on either side of the transmission tunnel. Once i found those it came right out.

Got a question: All of my floor boards and my seat box have this white sticky sealer material with the consistency of chewing gum lining all of the edges and the entire bottom of the floor boards. What is this gunk? is it important? Is there anything today i can replace it with?
I was thinking along the lines of a marine grade sound proofer that is brushed or rolled on. With the proper surface prep. it should go on fine. right?

[greenmeanie]

I just use an old aerospace trick. To seal all that stuff I use a bead of the appropriate outdoor silicone sealer that you get at the hardware shop. The real trick is to smear one of the surfaces with oil or grease before putting it together. This means taking it apart in the future is easy. Yes, this is jut a practice run - you will see that gearbox again.

Cheap and works a treat.

[Tim Smith]

Yup it sounds like your standard seam sealer (http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/search/searchresultsmain.jsp?fresh=1&searchType=advanced&iMainCat=0&iSubCat=0&attribute14=0&attribute15=0&attribute16=0&RS=1&keyword=seam+sealer) kind of stuff. Helps keep the rattles down but can make things a bit tough to pull apart later unless you use a trick like greenmeanie says.

One of the SPOTs on my truck was weather strip on the floor boards. That fell out long before I ever had to take the floorboards off myself. :rolleyes:

[Cosmic88]

I just went through the same floorboard situation. I removed all the (gum) white sealant and replacd with Window / Door silicone sealant. It is fairly flexible when cured and compresses nicely to form a pretty good seal when the floor panels are bolted back. Instead of greasing one surface (should probably be the removable panel) I applied the silicone bead (about 1/4 in thick / tall) and allowed it to cure fully for about 24 hrs... Then bolted the floor back in place with the ability to easily remove them later.

Is the tractor now the official 'recovery vehicle'? :cool:

[rwollschlager]

Is the tractor now the official 'recovery vehicle'? :cool:

Yes it is officially the only way my rover will move:thumb-up: ! for few weeks anyway....

[rwollschlager]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_2bSio9rDo

[Tim Smith]

Good for you! :thumb-up:

[rwollschlager]

I had trouble last week regarding the high-low range shifter linkage. I had installed them incorrectly so that the red knob pulled back was neutral, the middle was low range and forward where high range should have been wasnt there and the lever slammed into the tranmission tunnel. fear and chaos everywhere.. especially becuase it appeared low range was my only gear and it kept popping out of that (installed the spring on the 4-hi yellow knob changed that in short order)
however, after examining the linkage on my dads truck, it told me i got it all wrong. When i got up to the truck today, i quickly fixed the linkage and took it for a test drive and voila! high range, low range, in forward and reverse!!!!
I bolted up the front drive shaft and threw in the rest of the seats and drove it home. I have 6 bolts holding in the seat box and the floor boards are just resting there until I am sure i will not need to go back in there for a while anyway.
For those of you attending british by the sea, look for my truck!! if all goes well (aka nothing breaks, blows up, blah blah blah) it should be there!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gDkfzXPJZt8