My fuel pump has seen it's last day. Can anyone give me any insight on switching over to a electric pump? Pro's/con's....if you are running one, do you have a part #? I have a 1969 SIIA 2.25ltr.
I keep an electric as a spare because the new genuine pumps I buy do not instill a lot of faith in me. I have had them go bad a few times. I would recomend wiring the pump on its own switch so that if you want the ignition on but not the pump you won't sit there stressing the pump. the electric pumps work great I would not recommend anything more than 7 or 8 psi rated to protect the carb seals. I would also kep an extra electric pump though.
I have always run an electric pump on my series rigs. I had a mechanical set up and when I bought a new one to replace, it was duff too. I currently use a NAPA one made for carburetted engines. I use a recirculating fuel filter system so I do not get hard starting when hot and no vapour lock. Fuel is constantly being filtered as a bonus.
I use a recirculating fuel filter system so I do not get hard starting when hot and no vapour lock. Fuel is constantly being filtered as a bonus.
Interesting. Can you describe this system? Or could I just ask (the high school drop-out, know nothing punks at my) Napa about it?
Oh and to stay on subject, I intend to add an electric pump as back up to my mechanical. It's going on a switch, though, so I can turn it on as/when needed. I was looking at a "Facet Posi-flo" NAPA #610-1050, 4-7psi, ~$60.
Fuel pump is mounted in RH footwell inside the engine bay. Filter is just an 80's chrysler spec for any v8. I do not have the pump # on hand but it was the lowest pressure one I could find for carburated engines.
I know the air horn looks goofy, but there is limited headroom for a 2.25 in a ser1.
I made a bypass using brakeline tubing soldered to a fabricated flange. Its not the prettiest, but works like a charm.
Oh and to stay on subject, I intend to add an electric pump as back up to my mechanical. It's going on a switch, though, so I can turn it on as/when needed. I was looking at a "Facet Posi-flo" NAPA #610-1050, 4-7psi, ~$60.
Thank you! Josh[/quote]
I run the POSI-FLO #610-1051 from NAPA. It's rated 1.5 to 4 psi. I run a Rochester carb on my 2.25 and it seems to work well. I was surprised how little pressure the Rochester requires. What type of carb are you running and what does it need?
I run the POSI-FLO #610-1051 from NAPA. It's rated 1.5 to 4 psi. I run a Rochester carb on my 2.25 and it seems to work well. I was surprised how little pressure the Rochester requires. What type of carb are you running and what does it need?
Jeff
Uh.. to be honest I had also considered getting the 1.5-4psi. I hadn't really done the research yet. Mine's a 3.0l Mercruiser thing with a Weber 32 or 36 somethin'. Whether or not it needs more than the 1.5-4...??
Gudjeon: Specifically the recirculating filter part, is that a return line off the filter? And the carb just takes what it needs and any extra goes back the return line to the tank?
A Proper Electric Fuel pump will give the best performance and most stable tuning for any Weber carb application. We use only High Volme and Low Pressure pumps. Webers work best at approx 4 psi of fuel pressure (Not 2 psi like many of the older books stated.) and you need Volume not Pressure to keep the float bowl full.
I'm running a Weber carb.....32?? I will have to check the numbers. Looks like maybe around 4psi according the last posted Weber website. Sounds like running from a separate switch is best....would you recommend running your hot power into a fused line to the switch and directly to the pump?
If you put in an electric pump I'd recommend a pressure regulator to go with it. Also, tie it into the oil pressure idiot light. That way in case you have an accident, the pump won't continue to pump fuel provided the engine cuts out. Napa has the parts to make this happen but I'm sure they can be sourced elsewhere. A switch is OK but in an accident you're not alway coherent enought to remember to shut the fuel pump off.
Jason T.
I've put over 500,000 miles on my II-A in 19 years and have had 1 mechanical fuel pump failure using a Genuine pump; I have an RN Proline fuel pump in mine now.
When the pump failed, I was in NH on a -20 F morning. A friend who is a mechanic carries with him a generic electric pump with two long wires, both with alligator clips at the end, and long rubber hoses with press on clamps at each end. We disconnected the fuel line into the failed pump, clamped the rubber lines, and connected the wires to the battery. The pump had a magnetic holder around it so it could rest against the steel bulkhead. The car started up and we drove to his garage. I had Rovers North mail out a new pump and I was on my way the next day.
Now, of course, I just carry a spare fuel pump with me. They're not that hard to install in the field or on the road.
Jeff
Jeff Aronson
Vinalhaven, ME 04863
'66 Series II-A SW 88"
'66 Series II-A HT 88"
'80 Triumph TR-7 Spider
'80 Triumph Spitfire
'66 Corvair Monza Coupe http://www.landroverwriter.com
Interesting. Can you describe this system? Or could I just ask (the high school drop-out, know nothing punks at my) Napa about it?
Oh and to stay on subject, I intend to add an electric pump as back up to my mechanical. It's going on a switch, though, so I can turn it on as/when needed. I was looking at a "Facet Posi-flo" NAPA #610-1050, 4-7psi, ~$60.
Thank you! Josh
That pump is good, but the price seems a little hi, I pd. about $40 bux a couple months ago
I spent most of my money on women & cars, the rest of it I just wasted.......
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