Hub Bearing Adjustment

[JackIIA]

Basic question on how much 'free spin' I should have on the front wheels. How much is enough? I ask because I am pretty sure that my rebuilt axles don't have enough. You can turn the wheels by hand, but just barely.

I've slackened the shoe adjusters. I just don't want to disassemble the hub if I can avoid it. But I don't think I can. I've tried to fix this once already and each time I tighten up the locknuts, it seems to overtighten the whole assembly. What am I missing here? Seems pretty basic.

BTW, this is a build up from scratch - new brake cylinders, seals, etc. Never been driven. So it's not the result of heat. (It's owner mechanical error)

[JSBriggs]

The locktab washer should keep the inner nut from tightening when you tighten the outer.

-Jeff

[I Leak Oil]

Here's how I do it. Install the hub and outer bearing on the spindle and, while spinning the hub by hand, tighten the inner lock nut until resistance is felt on the spinning hub. Tighten an extra 1/2 turn to seat the bearings and then loosen the nut by 1 full turn. While spinning the spindle by hand tighten the inner lock nut until slight resistance is felt in the hub. Install the locking washer then the outer lock nut, fold the locking washer over and you're done.
Jason T.

[TeriAnn]

Here's how a retired factory trained Series Land Rover mechanic taught me how to do it without a dial indicator.

Install the hub and bearings on the spindle and tighten the inner lock nut until tight. This seats the bearings on the spindles. From full tight, loosen the nut by 1-1/2 flats of the nut. Add the lock washer and tighten down the outer nut. Done.

In 30 years I've never had a problem doing it that way.

[jac04]

^^So, what is considered "full tight"? Ever checked the end play afterwards to see what it is?

[JackIIA]

TeriAnn, Jason,

Thanks for the advice. I'll give it a shot.

[TeriAnn]

^^So, what is considered "full tight"?

Ummm, until the nut doesn't turn any more.



Ever checked the end play afterwards to see what it is?

Nope, never had a dial indicator. But I've put about a half million miles on my Land Rover.

[greenmeanie]

I'd second what TeriAnn has described as the way I was taught and have always done wheel bearings.When trying for 'full tight' you should only be looking to use a tool to provide enough leverage to overcome the running torque of the nut to ensure it bottoms. No heaving on the thing with a breaker bar.

[JackIIA]

Well, this MAY be turning into a differential bearing issue, but thought I'd continue with this thread for continuity sake...

Followed advice and re-adjusted the hub bearing nuts following TeriAnn's approach. Which seems like a good method and one even a simpleton like me can remember :). Had good 'free spin' initially. When I then bolt the driving member to the hub, that's when I get the resistance I've been complaining about. That suggests to me, at least, that the problem must lie in the differential.

Unfortunately, the only troubleshooting I can find online concerns the different noises differentials make when they are failing. Nothing about resistance to free spin. So, I'm at a bit of a loss to know if that is indeed the problem. FYI - I didn't touch the differentials when I rebuilt the axles.

One last point of reference. I can spin the rear wheels with a single finger, and after letting go, they'll turn at least another quarter. To move either front wheels requires both hands or a heavy screwdriver levered between the lugs and movement only lasts as long as real effort is exerted. (I've also done this with the drums off thinking maybe it was a brake shoe issue - no difference). Sorry for the LONG post! Thx.

[Les Parker]

On the front axle, and from the info. given I presume you have no free-wheel hubs fitted, the extra resistance could be on the front axle u/j's and half axles. Also, what grade oil do you have in the front axle?
There should not be that much of a variance between front and rear.
Do you have the yellow knob (hi-range 4 wd) pushed down?

Please advise.

[JackIIA]

Hey Les.

Correct, no free wheeling hubs. This is a frame up, so right now, it's literally just a RN chassis with springs, shocks, axles, and differentials. I haven't moved over the trans, propeller shafts, etc.

Oil - Castrol 80W-90. Do you think that difference would make that much of a change? I had same level of resistance when differential was essentially empty. (Gears show no evidence of rust, and they weren't bone dry before adding gear oil, just skim coat.) Difference in resistance between front and rear wheels is pretty noticeable. Thanks.

Does this suggest a rebuild of differential? Seems a shame to jump to this conclusion, especially if it's just something simple like I've overtightened somewhere. But the fact that I can spin the wheel when the hub is independent of the driving member leads me down that unfortunate path...