Grease in swivel balls

[msggunny]

I know that you can use the LR swivel ball grease in the trucks with CV's but can you use it in a Series rig without any detrimental effects?

Im sure this has been asked before but i couldnt find anything on it.

Thanks.

[greenmeanie]

Oh you have hit on one of those arguements that go on and on and on. Much like crimp vs solder for wiring harnesses.

The summary usually comes down to it depends how you use your truck and what your presonal preferences are. It does not have any detrimental effect from a lubrication stand point but there are other factors.

1. It is more expensive than 90wt which is the decider for most people.
2. If you plan on wading you'll still have to change this out after. It's still expensive but not that difficult if you get it warm first. You do have the advantage with the grease that it doesn't float on top of water that gets in you swivel so keeps the bottom bearing lubricated and rust free. You'll still have to change it.
3. A lot of people use it as a bodge or temporary fix for leaky swivel seals. That's fine if all you area planning to do is run her until you can get the parts together kind of thing but long term a leaky seal needs fixed as it is letting crud into the swivel.
4. It is better if you have freewheeling hubs and are a bit lazy about periodic engagement as it clings to the surfaces better.
5. It is more viscous than 90wt which may affect mileage but if you notice the difference on a series your a better man than I.

Do what works for you is about as neutral as I can keep it without starting fights. It is one of these things that keeping up with the maintenance is more important than the difference between the two lubricants.

[CliftonRover]

grease has worked fine for me in the series swivels, it would be a pain to drain or remove from the swivel if you under water often. I sometimes have a little of both, this helps to slow leaks that pitted swivels develop.

[TCapelle]

Swivel- Tightening

On a related note - I notice my front right swivel has a little more play in it then the front left.

Can the swivel be tightened with the 2 bolts under the housing? Are there torque specs in the manual or other tightening advice?

I am sure it is a sign of wear - just wondering if adjusting/tightening is something that would help...

[CliftonRover]

you could remove a shim from the top pin on the swivel. you will have to remove the wheel, unbolt the tie rod ends, remove the seal, undo the 4 bolts on the top pin, remove 1 or 2 shims, then bolt the pin back on and check the swivels resistance to turn. you will need a spring scale to measure this. it can be done by feel too, just don't make it too hard to turn or you will begin to wear the bearing and bushing in the swivel faster.

[TedW]

you could remove a shim from the top pin on the swivel. you will have to remove the wheel, unbolt the tie rod ends, remove the seal, undo the 4 bolts on the top pin, remove 1 or 2 shims, then bolt the pin back on and check the swivels resistance to turn. you will need a spring scale to measure this.

IIRC you can leave the big seal in place during adjustment; just loosen the king pin bolts so the housing swings free. Then use your fish scale to determine the amount of drag that the seal is adding when the housing swings and add it to the amount of resistance you adjust in when you remove your shim and tighten things up. I can't remember how many pounds of resistance the green bible specifies - I think it's 12-16 lb.

[TeriAnn]

Oh you have hit on one of those arguements that go on and on and on. Much like crimp vs solder for wiring harnesses.

The summary usually comes down to it depends how you use your truck and what your presonal preferences are. It does not have any detrimental effect from a lubrication stand point but there are other factors.

6. The lubricant carries heat away from the bearings when the wheels are locked. Coiler rigs have much larger clearances allowing the grease to flow more freely around the grease. The openings at the edge of the needle bearing cups in the U joints are narrow so the grease does not flow well through them.

If you mostly drive with wheels unlocked and lock them occasionally without putting long miles on locked hubs you should notice no difference with grease other than blown swivel seals will not leak. If you put long miles on locked hubs, you could notice a shorter time between hub U joint replacement with grease. On the other hand with oil you need to replace bad swivel seals and wipe the exposed part of the balls clean at oil changes and whenever you come off the trail.

A lot depends upon how you drive.