Malfunction in Brake Lights.... grrr

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  • Cosmic88
    Low Range
    • Feb 2009
    • 78

    Malfunction in Brake Lights.... grrr

    This has ben a VERY frustrating problem. I shall lay out all the steps I took to find the fault so as to narrow down the possibilities.

    Prob- Brake lights do not illuminate when pedal is depressed... the bulbs DO work when connected to 12v supply on both parking light setting and brighter brake setting. Contacts are clean, sockets are making good contact with bulbs. Turn signals both work, and parking lights (both upper and lower light sockets) illuminate when switched on at instrument panel.

    1. checked bulbs (L & R) - both working fine.
    2. Checked socket contacts - both working fine,
    3. wires leading to both sockets in tact and good connections / good ground.
    4. 12 ish volts at lead to brake switch on hydraulic brake line junction. When brake bedal is released there is no current... 12v + detected when pedal is depressed.
    5. disconnected hot lead to brake light switch and jumped to bulb with good result... then reconnected hot wire to switch and jumped output wire from switch to bulb (and ground) with no illumination. ???????

    How could I detect a voltage coming through the switch and yet when the bulb is connected to it get no light?

    WTH? that last "H" has an E and a pair of double hockey sticks with it.
    -Cosmo-
    '66 IIA 88" - Stock-ish Trail Rider

    '95 Disco R380 5 spd DD
    ARB winch bull bar
    Warn 8k
    Gulf States Grill
    OME HD 2" lift
    home made limb risers
    LR rack with too many Hellas
    on-and-on-and....
  • JimCT
    5th Gear
    • Nov 2006
    • 518

    #2
    test lamp

    ues a test lamp and not a multimeter to check voltage, I have been there and the meter will show 12V but if you put any load on the circuit it fails. Dirty contacts or the like.
    1968 battlefield ambulance/camper
    1963 Unimog Radio box
    1995 LWB RR

    Comment

    • Jeff Aronson
      Moderator
      • Oct 2006
      • 569

      #3
      Sounds like you may have a bad brake light switch; if you can get the lights to illuminate by bypassing the switch, and know that that the wiring from the switch to the bulbs is good, then the problem would seem to be within the switch itself.

      Jeff
      Jeff Aronson
      Vinalhaven, ME 04863
      '66 Series II-A SW 88"
      '66 Series II-A HT 88"
      '80 Triumph TR-7 Spider
      '80 Triumph Spitfire
      '66 Corvair Monza Coupe
      http://www.landroverwriter.com

      Comment

      • greenmeanie
        Overdrive
        • Oct 2006
        • 1358

        #4
        Originally posted by JimCT
        ues a test lamp and not a multimeter to check voltage, I have been there and the meter will show 12V but if you put any load on the circuit it fails. Dirty contacts or the like.
        I'd second the dirty contacts. I had this exact problem on my 101. It has a rather cheap and nasty reed switch operating on the pedal itself and eventually I had to take it apart and clean everything inside. Never a problem since.

        Comment

        • Cosmic88
          Low Range
          • Feb 2009
          • 78

          #5
          Well huh...

          Turns out to have simply been a bad brake switch ( the one located at the hydraulic junction for brake lines). The output voltage turned out to be about 9.5 v.

          traced every connection with a voltmeter and test lead / test lamp.

          Thanks for the tips.
          -Cosmo-
          '66 IIA 88" - Stock-ish Trail Rider

          '95 Disco R380 5 spd DD
          ARB winch bull bar
          Warn 8k
          Gulf States Grill
          OME HD 2" lift
          home made limb risers
          LR rack with too many Hellas
          on-and-on-and....

          Comment

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