broken main shift lever

[bobzinak]

My main shift lever snapped off at the to of the selector shaft ball. I would normally think this is an unusual occurebce. but I have driven this rover well over 250 thousand miles. This is the third time this has happened. It's not like I jamb and yank the lever..this time it broke off as I went into forth gear.. Causing me to shift from low to high range to get home..a pain to do properly...Due to time restraints I did not have time to wait for a new one to be shipped. Instead a 1/2 drill created a new hole in the selector ball and a liberal application of some JB weld epoxy and I was back on the road after it cured.. now it just may be me..but having three shift levers break off since i've had the rover seems excessive...has anyone else had a similar exprerience...not that I'm ragging on my 2A..if I were I wouldn't have kept this long...BOBZINAK......

[SafeAirOne]

I've had mine break. Mine is a 6-cylinder, RHD shift lever and it snapped about an inch or so above the pivot ball due to fatigue from the vibration of the diesel engine. I had it welded back together, but it snapped again at the same location about a year later.

Vibration must have been at just the right frequency, plus I THNIK the 6-cyl RHD shift lever is longer than 4-cyl shifters, so there's more leverage involved during the vibration.

I replaced the lever with a new one about 2 years ago and it's been fine so far.

[Jeff Aronson]

I've gone through 3 of them on my two Series II-A's over the 18 years of steady driving I've done on my Rovers. I'm guessing that it's just such a long shaft absorbing vibrations for a LONG time.

Jeff

[CliftonRover]

I have broken two, I plow 60 driveways every snow storm, I I do a lot of shifting, the shafts are hardened steel so welds do not hold as well, I have tried that too. I would just get a new one and try to shift easier. also check to make sure the selector shafts are not binding. they can get stuck or gunked up so every shift will be more difficult.

[Rineheitzgabot]

Had this happen today. Strange.

I was thinking of running a tap into the ball, and a dye of the end of the shaft. How deep is too deep in the ball? Will this work?

-Gary

[kevkon]

It's hardened steel.
Try slipping a tight fitting neoprene hose, like a heater hose over the entire shaft. It dampens the vibration and shock. It will also act like insulation.

[Jim-ME]

I have heard of this happening which is why I purchased a second one to have on hand. Does anyone know if a S3 shift lever can be made to accept the older style mushroom shift knob?
Jim

[Winooski]

Mine snapped at the ball as well, after the shop tech where I had the truck put her into reverse. They fabbed up a tubular sleeve that was welded to the ball, with the shaft of the shift lever inside the sleeve and then welded at the top end as well. Looks and shifts good now, but apparently not an uncommon problem. Glad it happened somewhere other than on the road, but I am going to purchase another for the inevitable next occurance.

[LR Max]

I broke one. Just welded it back on.

I'd suggest you do the same. Burn it with a 220V welder and it won't snap again :thumb-up:

[ignotus]

I broke mine a few times in the 70's and 80's one just the day before my wedding in the homeymoon car! I finally had my work machine shop make one out of I think it was 5/8 round stock machined down to fit the ball. Didn't break that one.

[Rineheitzgabot]

Thanks guys. Guess I'll be welding it.

Gary

[mrdoiron]

Thanks guys. Guess I'll be welding it.

Gary
OK, so this now has me on a "defense in depth" plan... and will be adding "spare" to my list....

mike

[LR Max]

OK, so this now has me on a "defense in depth" plan... and will be adding "spare" to my list....

mike

Meh. Having a spare one around is nice but go ahead and weld that puppy up or it'll just do the same thing.

Once the retaining pin that prevents the shifter from rotating breaks...then you'll be wanting to install that replacement :D

[bobzinak]

I posted the orginal message in apr. 2009. I have since discovered more information, One article in LRW the writer said that he would always have a new gearshift lever welded at the ball. he said he had broken many of them. I have drilled the broken off part out of the ball. but just a note that the ball and selector end is VERY hard steel and will dull a drill quickly. this is just my opinion but you would think that a company that makes expedition vehicles would have designed a shift lever that you could stand on and not break. I feel sorry for the guy who has his shift lever break in the midle of some desert or moab hills and is stuck. the last time mine broke I was in forth gear and had to shift from low range to high range to get home..bummer..weld it! weld it! weld it!...bobzinak

[kevkon]

I think that's why they changed the design on the SIII. It needs dampening.

[SafeAirOne]

I think that's why they changed the design on the SIII. It needs dampening.


Not sure what is being suggested here, but my SIII shift lever snapped about 3/4" above the shifter ball IIRC.

To add insult to injury, it snapped off just as I was decelerating into the security checkpoint at a military base during the morning rush. The guards had to unceremonially push my rover off to the side to let several dozen other cars behind me into the base.

I showed up to work with black hands that morning...

[JimCT]

You can weld it if you want, but unless you properly heat treat it, it will break again in the area of the weld.

[kevkon]

Not sure what is being suggested here, but my SIII shift lever snapped about 3/4" above the shifter ball IIRC.

To add insult to injury, it snapped off just as I was decelerating into the security checkpoint at a military base during the morning rush. The guards had to unceremonially push my rover off to the side to let several dozen other cars behind me into the base.

I showed up to work with black hands that morning...

Yeah, mine broke as well. I was suggesting that LR was aware of a problem and made an attempt to mitigate it, attempt being the key word.

[SafeAirOne]

You can weld it if you want, but unless you properly heat treat it, it will break again in the area of the weld.

I've proven that, though I did get almost another year out of the old one before it re-broke.

[SafeAirOne]

Yeah, mine broke as well. I was suggesting that LR was aware of a problem and made an attempt to mitigate it, attempt being the key word.


How? By the use of the plastic buffer instead of the o-ring on the bit that engages the transmission shift forks?

Incidentally, the lever that snapped on me was the o-ring type. My replacement plastic-buffer type has lasted 3 or 4 years so far...

[yorker]

I think that's why they changed the design on the SIII. It needs dampening.


Series IIIs break as much if not more than SIIs IMHO. At least as far as the original trucks exported to NA are concerned.

[kevkon]

Ok, I give up,why do you guys think the steel lever is breaking? What is the average Series driver a lot stronger than any other truck driver?

[SafeAirOne]

Ok, I give up,why do you guys think the steel lever is breaking? What is the average Series driver a lot stronger than any other truck driver?

Stress cracking from vibration at certain frequencies would be my guess...

[CMorris]

After my third broken lever (right at the top of the ball), I brought the broken lever and ball to a fab shop that has made all kinds of parts for me. They drilled out and tapped the ball, then welded rod to the end of the lever and threaded it, added a locking nut.....all set. So, in a pinch if and when this one breaks again, I have a long grade 8 bolt I can thread into the ball (hopefully it breaks high enough for vise grips to get a bite), and shift the truck so it can at least be moved. The fab shop is going to make a lever for me out of something exotic to hopefully end the breaking problem. The shop did send the ball out to a company that heat treats/hardens steel but they need to dissect it to determine what process to use (so not hardened yet), if anyone has a sacrificial-lamb shift ball they want to give up I could use one. So, eventually I hope to end up with some sort of titanium/heat treated/hardened set up............

[TedW]

It's the kind with one bend in the shaft and no threads at the top - S2, I think. I need the one with two bends in the shaft and threads for the 'shroom top.

Send me a PM if interested.

Ted

[mrdoiron]

It's the kind with one bend in the shaft and no threads at the top - S2, I think. I need the one with two bends in the shaft and threads for the 'shroom top.

Send me a PM if interested.

Ted

Here is how my shifter is configured / welded (don't be thrown off by the low profile firewall mounted subwoofer - I tried to stealth it up a bit) :

[rbonnett]

The shift lever in my SIII snapped off yesterday - I managed to limp home with the help of my mole grip replacement :)

Our hosts are out of stock with no ETA for more - anyone have one they want to part with? This is for a '72 SIII with the press on knob.

Thanks

[mrdoiron]

Posting here on this thread as well as another to try an get some feedback/advice/leads...
I have a LT77 gearbox on a RHD of a hybrid mod, and the shift lever essentially is straight vertical to the knob. Problem is the Reverse on this is up and the left (by 1st), and I almost need to lean to get it into R, and there is not a natural / easy feel even to slide to 1st due to the reach required.

I am searching for any experience / advice on how to resolve buy either :
1. Ideally a custom offering of a shaft angled toward the driver somewhere to resolve ? (again would need to angle toward driver on right in my case) , or
2. Tips on how to heat up/bend the existing shaft without causing another problem, weakening the shaft and creating a potential 'snap point' etc...

Any leads/tips greatly appreciated, mike

[kwd509]

The shift lever in my SIII snapped off yesterday - I managed to limp home with the help of my mole grip replacement :)


Better late than never. Pleased to see this thread.....in 1972 I was 15... almost had my license and was learning on the rover when the gearshift snapped off in my hand.....boy was my dad pissed.

A new part was ordered but was so slow to come that the repair was made via a weld...... and it lasted till this day, though the truck was dormant from 79 on. I guess when it is running again a spare ought to be ordered....

Years later I am gratified to learn that it was not just me......

[HybridIIA]

Posting here on this thread as well as another to try an get some feedback/advice/leads...
I have a LT77 gearbox on a RHD of a hybrid mod, and the shift lever essentially is straight vertical to the knob. Problem is the Reverse on this is up and the left (by 1st), and I almost need to lean to get it into R, and there is not a natural / easy feel even to slide to 1st due to the reach required.

I am searching for any experience / advice on how to resolve buy either :
1. Ideally a custom offering of a shaft angled toward the driver somewhere to resolve ? (again would need to angle toward driver on right in my case) , or
2. Tips on how to heat up/bend the existing shaft without causing another problem, weakening the shaft and creating a potential 'snap point' etc...

Any leads/tips greatly appreciated, mike

When I installed a LT77 in my truck, I just cut off the bottom of the original LT77 shift lever and welded the IIA lever to it. That way I didn't have to deal with bending anything and could pretty much position the lever any way I wanted.

[mrdoiron]

When I installed a LT77 in my truck, I just cut off the bottom of the original LT77 shift lever and welded the IIA lever to it. That way I didn't have to deal with bending anything and could pretty much position the lever any way I wanted.

Very nice job,

I would like to do something similar.. but with a 'newer' looking lever to match the rest of the interior if I can find one somewhere - then I can do what you did if there is not an off the shelf bolt-on available...

You truck sounds interesting - are there pics online btw ?

cheers,

[mrdoiron]

Very nice job,

I would like to do something similar.. but with a 'newer' looking lever to match the rest of the interior if I can find one somewhere - then I can do what you did if there is not an off the shelf bolt-on available...

You truck sounds interesting - are there pics online btw ?

cheers,
I thought I could move the gearlever on it [LT77 'box], by undoing the Lock nut which holds the gearlever to the top of the selector mechanism, lifting up the gearshift lever from its mounting splines and repositioning it so that the knob was nearer to the steering wheel.
...My theory anyway.. but the nut at the top is super tight, I can't loosen, at least not with a small hand wrench as it just strips the nut and doesn't loosen for some reason... I hit it with WD40 and I'll wait, but seems way too tight. Any chance that is a reverse thread on these ?

[mrdoiron]

I thought I could move the gearlever on it [LT77 'box], by undoing the Lock nut which holds the gearlever to the top of the selector mechanism, lifting up the gearshift lever from its mounting splines and repositioning it so that the knob was nearer to the steering wheel.
,.....

Problem solved...I managed to get the nut loose with a longer wrench (17mm) for better leverage... the smaller hand wrench I was using just didn't cut it... got the gearshift repositioned and works great now - much more natural angle as you can see from the picture here, especially given the right hand drive and shifting with left...

mike

[Howsomever]

It has not happened yet................but a spare is sure nice insurance. Easy to change. I always carry one.