109 FFR

[Mudtub]

The 109 FFR is or was a 24 volt system. This one needs to be put back together. The generator is out of truck, the dash is apart. The question is what should I do. It looks like I have all the parts it wire it both ways, 12V or 24V. What should I do. Thanks for the help

[navydevildoc]

The question becomes whether you want to make it back to original "stock" as a 24v truck, or convert it.

The 24v parts are harder to come by from what I hear, but you will have a cool FFR rig when you are done.

The 12v setup will be easier to get parts for, but will be shunned by "purists" if you care about that.

Perhaps someone with more FFR experience can chime in?

[SafeAirOne]

Do you plan on using 24v military radio equipment? If not, I'd go 12v personally. Just in the last 2 weeks there have been posts on various boards about folks having difficulty sourcing 24v headlamps and coils. That'll be you if you go with the 24v setup.

I'm not sure if there is a "24v wiring harness" and a "12v wiring harness", but remember that the lower the voltage, the higher the amps, so keep this in mind if you convert.

[SeriesShorty]

It's a tough decision you've got there.

For my FFR, I plan on doing a partial 12v conversion. Meaning, I'm keeping the 24v system but dropping in civilian model 12v distributor, plugs, leads. These items are fairly easy to source but very expensive items to replace with regards to the frequency of routine maintenance. I'll be installing a voltage dropper for adding accessories easier like my Hellas and CB.

Turn and tail bulbs aren't too difficult to find, but the headlight bulb is. They do make a conversion kit which allows you to replace the bulb with an easy to find 24v halogen bulb.

If the generator or starter ever crap out and are unable to be rebuilt locally, then I will end up converting the rest of the system over to a full 12v. These are available in the UK but ridiculously expensive and the carriage rates to ship are equally ridiculous due to their weight. Hopefully, that will be a long time coming and I'll end up doing my conversion in stages are required due to failing parts.

Alternately, if you go ahead and do a full 12v conversion now, you will likely find a buyer for your 24v stuff very quickly.

If you end up doing the conversion please do a write up. I have never really seen a write up before for this and it would be beneficial for all of us other 24v owners facing a similar dilemma.

Good luck either way ya go!

Jen

[Mudtub]

Thank you everone. I have rewired series rover before as the wires are over 30 years old and are never in great shape. Every Series I have seen the wiring I think from the factory is or becomes a rats nest. It is very simple to start over and do a complete rewire as there a simple truck. The problem is chasing out all the old wires that some one has already pulled apart. It can take alot of time.
Are the FFR wires good after 30 years.
Are the wires the same gage, will be able to pass the Amps
Are these things realy worth more with 24 volts
will 12 V bulbs fit the lamps

[greenmeanie]

The harness will basically be the same with the exception of the shunt box etc that is specific to the FFR.

As far as Amps go you'll need to figure that out based on the electric system you now have on the truck. Britishwiring.com has a good page in their catalogue with Amp capacity vs wire gauge. You should be fine with the exception of Halgen lamps in the headlights which really require the addition of a set of relays. If you still have an IR switch in the lighting circuit you need to eliminate that as the relay is not up to the curent loads for halogens.

Price should not be affected by the electric system unless you are an MV collector who values authenticity. If anything the 24V system should klnock down the price a bit due to parts cost/availability. A good 12V conversion to at least the ignition may add value. A poor conversion should decrease the value.

12V bulbs will fit the lamps.