Update on My '65 Gray Rover - Electronics Work! Seized? Not sure..

[Bostonian1976]

Hooked up a jumper to it today (no battery available yet), and had lights working, blinkers working, yellow light on the left working (what is this light??), and when I tried to start it, all lights dimmed and I heard it try to start. I wasn't REALLY trying to start it...just wanted to see if the starter would try for a split second. Pulled the plugs, poured some Marvel in each cylinder, tried to turn it over by hand with the fan belt, and it wouldn't budge. I hope it's not seized. Any suggestions for if it is seized?

Other questions....what is the "H" and "S" on the ignition? I'm assuming S is start, but what is H? Where are the light switches? The only switch I saw for the lights is in the upper right of the dash panel that pulls out...is that for all lights? Also, what controls the fan on the Kodiak heater?

Gas guage came to life with a charge at a half-tank, and amp meter worked too. Left wiper worked, right wiper didn't....all lights functional. Pretty cool

A few more pictures from today...

[siiirhd88]

Light switch....

The light switch is the black handle surrounding the ignition switch. The S is for Sidelights (parking) and the H is for Headlights. Not sure what the yellow light is, but it could be the Cold Start light (choke pulled?).

I guess you don't have a starting crank handle, but a deep socket and ratchet on the crank pully bolt should allow you to turn the engine over. I have had good luck freeing up stuck engines using carb cleaner PB Blaster squirted into the cylinders and left overnight, or in some cases a few weeks, renewed as needed. Then try moving the crank a little at a time, using the ratchet.

HTH,
Bob
'96 Disco SE7
'80 SIII 109
'75 SIII 88 V8
'66 SIIA 109 V8
'6? SIIA 109 pickup

[Bostonian1976]

thanks! the light setup is very different from my '67. I think the bottom-left light that was on might actually be a charge light that used to be red and now looks yellowish? Choke light is down on the right side. I'm really hoping the engine frees up.....I can't imagine that it won't....

[Raleigh Rover]

seized...

Try using Kano Kroil in the cylinders. I first heard about Kroil in a book called "Old Tractors and the Men Who Love Them." The author stated that he has not come across a single tractor that was seized that he couldn't free up with Kroil. Since then I have used it and am continually amazed how great it works. Just recently I was stripping my frame down to get it ready for galvanizing. I had 3 or 4 bolts that wouldn't budge. At the end of the day I squirted some Kroil on them. The next day I came back and they came off with virtually no effort. If you buy it from their website it is pretty reasonable versus Eastwood's price of $65.00 a gallon. I think they sell it for $31.00. It also works great in air tools.

[yorker]

http://www.kanolabs.com/ -Kroil

http://www.pbblaster.com/store/morei...m?Product_ID=1 PB Blaster

http://www.wurthusa.com/project/en/leftnavi/products/chemical/chemical.html

Wurth "Rost Off" is also very good- I've had success with it where others have failed

[Bostonian1976]

thanks guys! I'll try this the next time I'm up. I have a good feeling about this truck....

[jp-]

The left light is supposed to be red. It is the charge indicator. The right light is yellow. It is the choke warning light. Both should be on, when initially starting from cold (as should the green oil light).

The starting handle is stored behind the driver seat. Have you checked to see if it there?

[Bostonian1976]

The left light is supposed to be red. It is the charge indicator. The right light is yellow. It is the choke warning light. Both should be on, when initially starting from cold (as should the green oil light).

The starting handle is stored behind the driver seat. Have you checked to see if it there?

Briefly, yes. Maybe I'll check again.

The green oil light wasn't on...maybe the bulb is out. The light on the left is yellowish-orange....maybe the red is just faded? I don't think it's been modified ever. The choke light wasn't on, but then again I didn't have the choke pulled out, and I think that's what activates it, correct?

[Jeff Aronson]

Warning Lights

Briefly, yes. Maybe I'll check again.

The green oil light wasn't on...maybe the bulb is out. The light on the left is yellowish-orange....maybe the red is just faded? I don't think it's been modified ever. The choke light wasn't on, but then again I didn't have the choke pulled out, and I think that's what activates it, correct?

The green light should go on when you turn the ignition key. The light on the left is your charging light, faded out. The choke light [orange] will only work if your choke has the sending unit hooked up - most don't any more. It will light when the engine temperature reaches a normal level, alerting you to push in the choke.

If your oil pressure light isn't working, remove the center panel and tilt it forward. Follow the wiring behind the panel; one wire should go to the ring that with all the connectors, behind the light ring switch on the dash panel. If you remove the bulb, and put a test light to it with the ignition on, you'll find out if you're getting power to the bulb.

It will stay lit until the oil pressure rises from the sensor switch at the top of the oil filter. Look under the hood on the filter side of the engine [left side facing the windshield]. You should see a wire running from a pressure switch into the wiring harness. If you don't, or if it's been removed, you'll not get a reading.

Does the generator light go on when you turn on the key?

Good luck,

Jeff

[Bostonian1976]

The green light should go on when you turn the ignition key. The light on the left is your charging light, faded out. The choke light [orange] will only work if your choke has the sending unit hooked up - most don't any more. It will light when the engine temperature reaches a normal level, alerting you to push in the choke.

If your oil pressure light isn't working, remove the center panel and tilt it forward. Follow the wiring behind the panel; one wire should go to the ring that with all the connectors, behind the light ring switch on the dash panel. If you remove the bulb, and put a test light to it with the ignition on, you'll find out if you're getting power to the bulb.

It will stay lit until the oil pressure rises from the sensor switch at the top of the oil filter. Look under the hood on the filter side of the engine [left side facing the windshield]. You should see a wire running from a pressure switch into the wiring harness. If you don't, or if it's been removed, you'll not get a reading.

Does the generator light go on when you turn on the key?

Good luck,

Jeff

the generator light? would that be the charge light on the far left? if so, then that does work.

I'll bet that choke light still works......nothing has been touched on this truck

I'll look for that wire coming from the oil pressure switch to the harness....it's probably still there. This was pretty exciting!

[DGG]

When I put Marvel oil in the cylinders of my 61 series II, I couldn't turn the crank either. I took the spark plugs out, then I was able to turn the engine over by hand. I think the oil in the cylinders was causing too much pressure for me to turn the engine. Try taking the spark plugs out and see if you can turn the hand crank.

[Erin]

Try Diesel

I've used diesel to free up engines. It is usually cheaper than the fancy weasel piss. Put it in the cylinders and let it sit overnight then give it a try with the hand crank. It's not fancy but it should work unless the cylinder is really f'd.

[JimCT]

Brake Fluid

try cheap brake fluid.....works great

[daveb]

...nothing has been touched on this truck

except for the homemade rear crossmember, relocated ashtray and relocated headlight dimmer.

cheers
DaveB in DC

[Bostonian1976]

except for the homemade rear crossmember, relocated ashtray and relocated headlight dimmer.

cheers
DaveB in DC

pretty minor for a 42 year old truck, wouldn't you say?

tell me about this relocated headlight dimmer?