How bad is this?

[hueske]

I was cleaning up the frame to weld on the new crossmember when I uncovered more rust holes on the bottom, extending out to the bumper perch. My crossmember only has 10" extensions. Can plate be welded on the bottom and sides to form a new box beam or does it need to be completely replaced. I'm having it galvanized after I repair it (if it can be repaired).1783

1784

[greenmeanie]

It is all repairable but there are a few caveats.
1. Can you weld? It sounds silly but if you are paying someone else to do the repair and it starts getting bigger and bigger and then you are going to galvanize afterwards you have to have a relaistic idea about when it become cheaper and a whole lot less haslle just to replace the whole thing.

2. I'd cut away that entire bottom plate and replace it as a single piece rather than chase spots areas. OPnce you have cut away the bottom plate carefully inspect the chassis. They rot from the inside out so while you may have a few holes in this area you may find there are a lot of other places that are almost through. At that point see #1.

If you still want to repair it then I'd carefully measure the position of the spring perch and the bodymounting bracket and cut them off by grinding away the welds. Cut away the rusted portions of the chassis. Think big here as you want to remove everything back to solid metal so, as stated above I'd probably cut awat the entire bottom of that chassis from the spring perch back to the next cross member past the rust. Spend some time carefully cutting and fitting a new piece of metal (14Ga) and weld in place. Do the same for the side plate and then weld the brackets back in place. It will make for a neater, stronger repair than a scab patch.

Once you are finished reread item #1 and then consider if it was worth it.

[JackIIA]

I personally would media blast the whole thing before investing time in what looks like it could turn into extensive patching, just given the image of the rear leaf spring attachment point.

Sorry not much help, but that looks iffy to me, given I'm guessing you've just hit it with a wire wheel and gotten that degree of holes/thin metal.

Ditto on Greenmeanie advice. While paying $1700 is a serious bummer, you're getting new, galvanized, good thick gauge throughout, and will last until they bury you in your rig in the distant future.

[gudjeon]

I would do some exploratory surgery and remove the bottom of the frame rail to see the extent of the corrosion. If the rest of it looks OK on the inside, then you may want to consider further removal of the hanger, repair and re-attach it. There is nothing to lose at this point. If you choose to repair, you have already started, and if you choose to replace, you know for sure what it looks like on the inside.

I had worse corrosion than this on my ser1 frame and rebuilt/welded it myself. Like was said, it is doable, just what you are comfortable with.:thumb-up:

[Nill]

I would do some exploratory surgery and remove the bottom of the frame rail to see the extent of the corrosion. If the rest of it looks OK on the inside, then you may want to consider further removal of the hanger, repair and re-attach it. There is nothing to lose at this point. If you choose to repair, you have already started, and if you choose to replace, you know for sure what it looks like on the inside.
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Ditto. Depending on your fab skills you can save that frame for cheap, as opposed to paying for another...

[SafeAirOne]

While paying $1700 is a serious bummer, you're getting new, galvanized, good thick gauge throughout, and will last until they bury you in your rig in the distant future.

$1700 just for the chassis. I challenge anyone to replace a chassis for JUST the cost of the new chassis. There will ALWAYS be odds and ends that add up to additional hundreds if not thousands.


...Just something to keep in mind.

[Firemanshort]

My only contribution is to reinforce what others have sort of said. Do not patch each individual hole. A BIG patch is easier to do and a whole lot less time consuming that a lot of small patches. At a minimum, i was going to patch it would be at least as large as the total width of the frame rail.

But - it appears that you have stripped all the parts off your truck and are down to the frame, already. Labor vs dollar vs never having to make this repair again conversations need to be had....

[JackIIA]

Yes, true Mark. But we're just talking about the chassis, not everything that starts looking suspect once you have a gleaming new frame! And to Fireman's point, I'd rather spend the $ now while it's all apart and not revisit it later for something as key as this. hueske if you go the patch route, pics would be awesome.

[hueske]

Working in restoration, I know that anything can be fixed. Its just a matter of time and money. The frame is sound everywhere but those back members. My plan was to cut the entire bottom flat out, and weld a new section in. That goes for the sides as well if they need it. I wasn't sure how big of a deal it was to reattach the spring mounts. I'm not the greatest welder, but I have friends who are good.

[thixon]

Mark,

I'm not trying to start any S%*t, so don't come looking for my or anything, but I have actaully replaced the frame on an 88, for just the cost of the frame. (I already had a set up bushings).

Now for the back story. Truck was already in good shape, and was a daily driver). I broke the frame just behing the front spring hangers after a night of trying to yank a high c'd wagoneer out. Yes it involved beer, lots of beer. Man I love beer.... Whoops back to the story. To atone for my sins, I ordered a new frame the next day, rather than trying to weld up the new one (Okay, I really just wanted a new galvy frame).

All that being said, I agree. The overwhelming majority of the time, you're not out just the cost of frame.

[thixon]

Working in restoration, I know that anything can be fixed. Its just a matter of time and money. The frame is sound everywhere but those back members. My plan was to cut the entire bottom flat out, and weld a new section in. That goes for the sides as well if they need it. I wasn't sure how big of a deal it was to reattach the spring mounts. I'm not the greatest welder, but I have friends who are good.

Spring hangers won't be a big deal. Just measure (which you know to do anyway).

[SafeAirOne]

Mark, I'm not trying to start any S%*t, so don't come looking for my or anything, but I have actaully replaced the frame on an 88, for just the cost of the frame. (I already had a set up bushings).

Nice!:thumb-up:

Whenever I delve into something, it always ends up costing 50% more than I originally budget. It always seems to start with the words "As long as I'm in here I might as well..."

[gudjeon]

Sounds like a classical case of Ship Fitter's Disease.:rolleyes: