Instructional help wanted - Portland, ME

[rbonnett]

I have 3 jobs pending on my SIII 88", 2 of which I've never done before. If there is anyone in the Portland, ME area who would be willing to do some hands-on teaching, I'd appreciate it.

1) Tie-rod ends. Mine all need to be replaced. This is something I would normally take in to a shop, but I would like to learn how to do it. It seems simple enough from the manual, but since consequences are so dire I've hesitated to jump into it on my own. If someone can walk me through doing at the easily accessible ones one the track rod/tie rod, I could do the ones on the longitudinal rod later (those look a real pain to get at)

2) I have a rocker assembly bolt that got the threads stripped out by the PO over-torquing. This is one of the smaller bolts that go thru the center of the brackets. I have the replacement bolt from our hosts, and whoever I talked to there suggested using a tap to clean the threads up in the head before replacing it. Never done any tap and die work, and don't have the tools for it. I would hate to ruin an otherwise good cylinder head.

3) Timing - I've never felt like I've really done a good job adjusting timing. There's nothing really off about how my engine is running, but it would be good to at least have a more experienced set of eyes on it with me.

Thanks

[msggunny]

I have 3 jobs pending on my SIII 88", 2 of which I've never done before. If there is anyone in the Portland, ME area who would be willing to do some hands-on teaching, I'd appreciate it.

1) Tie-rod ends. Mine all need to be replaced. This is something I would normally take in to a shop, but I would like to learn how to do it. It seems simple enough from the manual, but since consequences are so dire I've hesitated to jump into it on my own. If someone can walk me through doing at the easily accessible ones one the track rod/tie rod, I could do the ones on the longitudinal rod later (those look a real pain to get at)

2) I have a rocker assembly bolt that got the threads stripped out by the PO over-torquing. This is one of the smaller bolts that go thru the center of the brackets. I have the replacement bolt from our hosts, and whoever I talked to there suggested using a tap to clean the threads up in the head before replacing it. Never done any tap and die work, and don't have the tools for it. I would hate to ruin an otherwise good cylinder head.

3) Timing - I've never felt like I've really done a good job adjusting timing. There's nothing really off about how my engine is running, but it would be good to at least have a more experienced set of eyes on it with me.

Thanks

Tie rods are easy, all of them. I just replaced all of mine last year.

I dont have a tap or die set, but i am wanting to get one as i have an issue i need to sort on mine too. Maybe i can kill 2 birds with one stone with this.

Timing isnt too hard, just do it by the manual.

Im moving to Brunswick on Sunday. PM me your phone number and if no one else can get around to helping you out i can after i get settled in.

[greenmeanie]

About the only thing I woudl say about tie rods is to measure the distance, center to center on the pin housing on the TRE on the original and then just install the new ones so they have the same span. This will at least put you close to the original set up. I'd probably get the tracking set after the job too.

The other thing is a warning to have a good look down the track rod tube once you have it apart to check for corrosion. These rot from the inside out and have been known to fail. Now's the time to give it a squirt of rust proofing at the very least or upgrade to a set of real steering bars from Series Trek.

[thixon]

2) If the threads are damaged beyond repair, you can install a heli-coil.

[Jim-ME]

I live in Brewer and would be happy to help even though it is a distance away and not that I know that much more than you do. Sometimes 2 heads are better than one.
Jim

[mechman]

If you've never done it before, I'd take the tap and die job to an expert and watch it being done for the first time, especially on a job in your cylinder head. There are so many factors to having it done right (getting the tap in straight, not going too far, checking for cracks, checking that the thread is tight, cleaning up the chips, determining if it needs a helicoil, etc.) that you should have a pro explain it to you as it's done. You really want that job done right the first time...

Mech

[greenmeanie]

For those who have access to such things NASM33537 is the installation specification for threaded inserts and, as you would imagine, is a mine of info.

[rbonnett]

Thanks. I had pretty much decided to take the tap job to a machine shop - let the pros worry about it. Hopefully they'll let me lurk and watch them in action.

Does anyone have a recommedation in the Portland-ish ME area?

[TJR]

The other thing is a warning to have a good look down the track rod tube once you have it apart to check for corrosion. These rot from the inside out and have been known to fail.

Wow!:eek:.. 1st I've heard of this & how common is this? That could be a real problem!

[greenmeanie]

It all depends on where you are I suppose. It is an enclosed volume that moisture will get into but has difficulty exiting. I don't think your average truck is going to fail but one that's seen salt, mud and wading etc. is another matter. It had 30+ years to develop on a series truck. Not something I'd take apart specially but if I was doing TRE's I'd at least look.

A few years ago in the UK there were a couple of blokes that were well known in 4wd circles that were killed when their track rod let go due to corrosion as they were driving on the road.