Bed Repair

[thixon]

Well,

I've started my bed repair. I'll try to continue posting to this thread as I progress. Thus far, I've removed the bed floor. I'll have to post pics of that tomorrow, as I left them on my work computer.

Tonight, I busted out the TIG, and welded patches into my corroded rear bottom section (where the tabs to the frame bolt on). I have'nt ground anything yet, and you'll notice that the tabs extend further than the bottom of the original piece. I wanted to make sure I had a little extra metal to pull over at the end of the weld. These photos stink, but you'll get the idea.

This project started off as an attempt to just rivet new metal into place, and go. As you can see, I ended up having to plug the holes on either side of the patchs where the rivets were. (I'll post pics of the rivet attempt tomorrow).

My plan is to flap disc everything smooth, and then weld beads on the back sides, that I won't grind smooth.

[Mercedesrover]

I just did the tub over on my 109 last year. Here's a link (http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8169&page=29) to the section of a thread dealing with all that. Big job but worth the effort.

[thixon]

Thanks Jim. I know the thread well. Great post.

For the most part, I'll be headed in the same direction. I may use alum c channel, riveted down the center for the stiffeners. If I remember right, you used two peices of angle back to back for your stiffeners. Since you've alread done this, any reason I should stay away from the c channel?

I also may end up replacing a body panel. One is pretty banged up, but I"m gonna give it a go with the slapper, hammer, and dolly so we'll see.

Thanks,

[thixon]

Okay,

Here are more pics. Here you can see my start at a rivet type repair on the section I welded last night.

You will also see the holes in the bed floor, and the bed floor removed.

To get the bed floor out, I started drilling spot welds, then came to my senses. I got out the air hammer and chisel, and split the spot welds apart. A word of warning. If you try the air hammer method, you will bend up the flange that the perimeter of the new bed floor will mount to. If you aren't comfortable with beating this back flat, then stick to drilling out the spot welds.

My mission for tonight will be to grind, bump, and hammer my welding job flat on the rear of the bed. Wish me luck.

[thixon]

Bed floor holes, and new floor cut from 4x10 sheet.

[jac04]

Wish me luck.
Good Luck! I doubt you will need it - skill usually negates the need for luck. :thumb-up:

[NickDawson]

Good Luck! I doubt you will need it - skill usually negates the need for luck. :thumb-up:

Thanks for sharing the progress - helping me decide what to do about mine

[LaneRover]

Good Luck! I doubt you will need it - skill usually negates the need for luck. :thumb-up:

Skill never negates the need for luck.

Luck though can negate the need for skill.

Given the choice between skill and being lucky I will always choose lucky.

[jac04]

Skill never negates the need for luck.

Luck though can negate the need for skill.

Given the choice between skill and being lucky I will always choose lucky.

...and to think that I've been relying on my skills for all these years. Maybe I've just been unlucky.:rolleyes:

[LaneRover]

...and to think that I've been relying on my skills for all these years. Maybe I've just been unlucky.:rolleyes:

Could be!

Though I kind of said the bit about skill and luck in jest I think that there is a bit of truth to it.

You can be the most skilled photographer in the world but never be in exactly the right spot at the right time. That famous shot of Ali in the boxing ring in Lewiston standing over Liston and taunting him was the result of that photog getting shunned by the other press folks and being forced to sit on the other side of the ring.

http://www.sportsgalleryweb.com/images/boxing/ali_liston_bw_silver_large.jpg

Of course the best situation is to be very skilled AND lucky - but choosing between the two, I'll choose luck.

[Bertha]

Ahh floor replacement brings back memories(of not too long ago). If you need the big round head rivets that hold on the cross braces let me know, I have a lifetime supply.

[Bertha]

My plan is to flap disc everything smooth, and then weld beads on the back sides, that I won't grind smooth.

Nice job. If you were looking for a more OEM look, than the bead welds, you could use metal to metal bonding agent and countersunk flat head rivets that give the appearance of spot welds when painted over. If interested let me know and I will send you the details.

[thixon]

Ahh floor replacement brings back memories(of not too long ago). If you need the big round head rivets that hold on the cross braces let me know, I have a lifetime supply.

Thanks Bertha. My lifetime supply will only get me through my bed repair, and possibly my refitting of my galv trim. So I may take you up on that offer.




Nice job. If you were looking for a more OEM look, than the bead welds, you could use metal to metal bonding agent and countersunk flat head rivets that give the appearance of spot welds when painted over. If interested let me know and I will send you the details.

Thanks but it aint over yet. You may yet have the opportunity to say "Crappy job...way to go."

So far, the flat head solid rivets are my plan. I've also entertained the possibility of using countersunk blind rivets. My 8 year old son thinks those look cooler than the solid flat heads, so I may have to yield. We'll see. Part of the point of this build was to get him interested in this type of work, and for him to learn a few things. The healey 100-4 project will end up belonging to him one day(shh, don't tell him. He doesnt know yet), so the rover is functioning to wet his appetitie for car resoration. If he really presses for the countersunk pops, then thats the way I'll go.

[Bertha]

My lifetime supply will only get me through my bed repair, and possibly my refitting of my galv trim. So I may take you up on that offer.


I am talking about the large round head rivets that hold on the cross braces under the bed, not the smaller round head rivets(which I have a lifettime supply of as well) that hold the galv on.

[ScottT]

You guys are doing an awesome job.
I thought I was slick when I replaced the 109 pickup bed with tread plate and galvanized cross supports eight or nine years ago. I was unable to find anything to be used as the three length-wise supports, they run the length of the bed. After talking with our hosts and BP I left them out. I've used the bed for landscaping and rock hauling without issues.
Nice to see the great work.

[yank]

Thixon, What are using between the steal supports and the tub floor? Do you know if you can get the original canvas stuff?

[Bertha]

Thixon, What are using between the steal supports and the tub floor? Do you know if you can get the original canvas stuff?

Canvas bufferes were used on early trucks. Later trucks used rubber buffers which Rovers North carries.

[thixon]

Yank and Bertha,

I'm actually floundering on that one. My truck did have the rubber supports. I've thought about a number of things to use, including layers of inner tube.

I work for a wood pressure treating company. We use belts of rubber stamps to apply a stamp to wood that we've treated. I've been browsing through the worn out stamps trying to find something close in terms of thickness. I may very well cut supports out of an old lumber stamp!

Yeah, I'm that cheap.:D

[greenmeanie]

Travis,
I have a couple of redundant axle limit straps that should work very well. I can throw one in your elusive package if you want.

[thixon]

Travis,
I have a couple of redundant axle limit straps that should work very well. I can throw one in your elusive package if you want.

Gregor,

That would be much appreciated.

[thixon]

Well....

Not much time to work on the rover lately, but I did manage to get some grinding and shaping done on the welds to the bottom of the bed. Now its time for some hammer and dolly work to get it flat and straight.

I'm pleased thus far with how the welds came out. Hopefully the rest of the project will go as smoothly. My fear of welding aluminum is basically gone at this point. My ony advice is its all in the cleaning.

[thixon]

I got some work done over the long weekend. I managed to get the bed floor made, and also made a new side for my seat box.

A buddy donated a 4x8 sheet of aluminum to the project, but it turned out to be thinner than the original bed floor. I decided to play with some 3M body panel adhesive, and ended up laminating two sheets together to make one piece that was thicker than the original floor. Anyone who is aprehesive about using that stuff should rest easy. It sticks!.

I ended up just using aluminum angle for the stiffeners, and fastened them with some countersunk blind rivets. I still need install rivets around the perimiter of the bed.

After much deliberation, I've decided to fasten the steel stiffeners that the bed rides on with bolts, instead of riveting. This will allow me to easily remove them when they eventually rust into nothing.

The side panel for the seatbox was a fun project. Took about 20 minutes with a box break. I'll eventually make a tool box, but I'm more interested in getting the truck on the road first.

[Tim Smith]

:thumb-up:

[madp]

I also will be soon working on the bed repair on my 109 and I was thinking of using Butyl Putty Tape as a buffer, it is used in the RV industry for sealing around windows and what not, we pull it out of 50 year old Airstreams all the time and it has not dried out and is still flexible, it is pretty cool stuff. With a little bit of compression it seals really well. It is pretty cheap; you can get it from Vintage trailer supply (They are a reputable company) http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Butyl_Putty_Tape_p/vts-419.htm (http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Butyl_Putty_Tape_p/vts-419.htm) for $4.99 a roll
Just a thought…..

[Bertha]

I also will be soon working on the bed repair on my 109 and I was thinking of using Butyl Putty Tape as a buffer, it is used in the RV industry for sealing around windows and what not, we pull it out of 50 year old Airstreams all the time and it has not dried out and is still flexible, it is pretty cool stuff. With a little bit of compression it seals really well. It is pretty cheap; you can get it from Vintage trailer supply (They are a reputable company) http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Butyl_Putty_Tape_p/vts-419.htm (http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Butyl_Putty_Tape_p/vts-419.htm) for $4.99 a roll
Just a thought…..

Not sure what you mean by using it for a buffer in the bed, however the tape you have pointed out is a dead ringer for the stuff Land Rover used to seal the floor boards and seat base to the truck-thanks for the good supplier tip as I was starting to run out of my supply.

[thixon]

Madp,

Thanks for the source. I was floundering on just using the panel adhesive on the bed floor, but did'nt like the "permanent" nature of going that route.

Bertha,
as you can see, I decided to back off on the large rivets for the bed supports. Thanks for the offer anyway.

All,
I found out today, that it is going to be next to impossible to find a replacement left quarter panel. They are NLA even at the supply houses in the UK. On mine, only the bottom portion below the spotwelds to the fender well is bad. Looks like the SPO pushed it in right at the wheel well. After alot of thought, my solution will be to cut the lower portion off in one straight cut parallel to the horizontal line of the fender well. I plan to leave about an inch of the old fender below the fender well. I then plan to make a plywood buck, using the profile from my good side. I'll then hammer out a new lower panel, flange the top, and join the two using the weldless panel repair technique ( body adhesive and coutersunk rivets. If all goes well, I should be able to glaze over the rivets, and no one will be the wiser (unless they look inside the fender). We'll see how that goes.

[SafeAirOne]

Travis--Nice job. I think I've seen some rear 88 tub sides while surfing lately; Maybe RDS or Britannica Restorations...I'll have to have another look.


...the tape you have pointed out is a dead ringer for the stuff Land Rover used to seal the floor boards and seat base to the truck.

The floorboards are supposed to be saeled up? Geez, I have my floorboards in and out on what seems like a monthly basis. No wonder they make so much noise (vibration)!

[madp]

Madp,

Thanks for the source. I was floundering on just using the panel adhesive on the bed floor, but did'nt like the "permanent" nature of going that route.



I know what you mean, when I pulled my bed out the PO had glude it down and it was a huge pain to remove, but with the putty, if you have a remove it, a gentle pull is all it takes to get it to come loose.

Bertha--by buffer I meant where the Aluminum of the bed meets the steel of the frame.

[JackIIA]

The sealant is now sold out....which one of you guys bought the lot?