Recovering Seats

[Jim-ME]

I have 4 inward facing seats which need recovering. Has anyone ever tried to do this themselves? I can get vinyl locally but I'm concerned about the difficulty sewing the vinyl panels together. I plan to try a seat bottom first because it only requires 2 seams. Any recommendations would be appreciated.
Jim

[LRMAN]

Jim, most machines should be able to handle this. Use a denim weight needle. Newer machines with plastic gearing will suffer. Get a metal geared machine if you can. I do a lot of sewing for my sailboat and I picked up a 40 year old straight/zigzag machine from the local repair shop for $100. I would be happy to lend it to you if you were a little closer.

Tim

[thixon]

As an alternative, most alterations shops, and any upholstery shop would do this work for you.

Whichever way you choose, installation is easy. Just a stable gun away from completion.

You might also consider replacing the foam while you're there.

[LRMAN]

When stapling, make sure to spend the extra dough on Monel staples. Monel is an alloy that will not rust. Expect to pay about $20/box though.

http://www.amazon.com/Arrow-Fastener-504M1-Model-Staples/dp/B00176FKII

[Eric W S]

I have 4 inward facing seats which need recovering. Has anyone ever tried to do this themselves? I can get vinyl locally but I'm concerned about the difficulty sewing the vinyl panels together. I plan to try a seat bottom first because it only requires 2 seams. Any recommendations would be appreciated.
Jim

Jim,

Price it out with an upholstery shop first. Seriously. I was thinking about doing my seats, but after researching it and getting very good pricing from very good local guys who had access to everything, it was a no-brainer. And your ass will thank you! :thumb-up:

[Jim-ME]

If I go local I'll still need to rebuild the wooden frames myself. I really never thought about having the work done locally but it's worth a shot.
Jim

[thixon]

If I go local I'll still need to rebuild the wooden frames myself. I really never thought about having the work done locally but it's worth a shot.
Jim

Jim,

I did this on a Rover I owned a while back. Remaking the wood seat bottoms (assuming thats what you mean) is easy. You'll fly through it. I even made some false bottoms that I covere with vinyl, and screwed into the actual bottoms. That way, when the seats were folded up, the bottoms looked "finished" rather than showing a piece of wood, and the stapled vinyl edges.

The only advice I'll give you concerning upholstery shops is that you should shop the job around A LOT. You'll be surprised at the variance in the quotes you'll get. Some guys are really really proud of the thier work.:D

[Jim-ME]

Thanks Travis. Unfortunately living in central Maine I don't have many choices and based on my 2 quotes I think I'll do it myself.
Jim

[TedW]

Jim:

I made a new headliner (which I forgot to show you when you were down) using marine-grade upholstery vinyl I bought at a fabric store in Bangor - I think it was out by the mall.

It all came out great, and my consumer grade sewing machine handled it with no problems. That said, be sure to follow LRMan's advice if you can. And use those good staples, as suggested.

[SeriesShorty]

I'm getting ready to tackle the project myself, but it really doesn't seem all that difficult. I bought some heavy duty 1000D cordura and some sunbrella fabric for a colorful insert that I'll be doing mine in. Sewing really is pretty easy once you get your tensions set right. Test a few lines on some scrap material (be sure to use a scrap from the material you are using on the seats) and check the stitch on the top and the bottom. The top stitch is usually fine so you think everything is all hunky-dory and continue...only to turn it over later and find large loops on the underside of the stitch. If this is the case on your test runs, take the bottom bobbin out and adjust the tiny screw and test again. Readjust, and repeat until you get a nice stitch on top and under your test sample.

I've already rebuilt my bottom frames and that was super easy. Much better than the particle board seats that my truck came with. What a mess those have made of my seat base!

Good luck and have fun with it!

[JackIIA]

While you're at it....

Have you given any thought to putting in a heating element in those seats?

Call me a sissy, but I've thought about rigging up heated seats in mine once I get through all the 'extraneous' stuff (like transmission, engine, harness, etc.).

Curious if anyone has done this.

Oops Jim - just noted you're talking about the inward facing seats. I'm obviously talking about driver/pass.

[mechman]

I've wired heated seats into an old VW Beetle, using the elements, wiring, relays, switches, etc. from an Audi. It was AWESOME. I intend to do it again soon. Possibly on my Rover.

Mech

[LRMAN]

I think you need a fairly beefy alternator to handle this demand. You will likely kill the stock alternator with heated seats.

I own an Audi with heated seats and they are a great option in the NE. They get warm long before the heater does.

If I get a rover for my wife she will expect this upgrade.

[JackIIA]

Good thought on the alternator, hadn't thought of that. I'm a gluton for comfort so I agree it would be an awesome setup.

[Jim-ME]

These are the seats for the rear in the load space. I will haul people back there seldom enough that heated seats aren't necessary. To be very truthful heated seats in a Series is not even on my radar.
Jim