Rochester pressure valve spring

[SeriesShorty]

So I got a Rochester and rebuilt it. Installed it and having some issues. I found the below statement on TeriAnn's site about the pressure valve spring. I had already rebuilt the carb by the time I found this:

"There is a pressure valve inside the carburetor body that consists of a steel ball and a spring. There is a metal rod across the top of the opening to keep the parts in place. A rebuild kit comes with a new ball and spring. Be advised that the spring rate is different than the original and replacing it can cause problems. Leave this pressure valve alone if you can when rebuilding the carburetor If you need to open up the passage reuse the old spring."

And of course, I replaced the spring with the new spring from the rebuild kit. Anyone know what these "problems" are that could occur if you replace with this different rated spring vs leaving the original spring in?

[TeriAnn]

So I got a Rochester and rebuilt it. Installed it and having some issues. I found the below statement on TeriAnn's site about the pressure valve spring. I had already rebuilt the carb by the time I found this:

"There is a pressure valve inside the carburetor body that consists of a steel ball and a spring. There is a metal rod across the top of the opening to keep the parts in place. A rebuild kit comes with a new ball and spring. Be advised that the spring rate is different than the original and replacing it can cause problems. Leave this pressure valve alone if you can when rebuilding the carburetor If you need to open up the passage reuse the old spring."

And of course, I replaced the spring with the new spring from the rebuild kit. Anyone know what these "problems" are that could occur if you replace with this different rated spring vs leaving the original spring in?

I wrote that at least 15 years ago and have not had a 2.25L engine in my Land Rover for 10 years. Sorry but I have long forgotten what the problem was. I'll take W.A.G. based upon some very hazy recollections.

I think the spring & ball is part of the acceleration circuit and the strength of the spring determined the level of vacuum needed to open or close the passage sealed by the ball. And if the spring pressure is wrong, the engine would initially hesitate on mild acceleration so the engine would not run smoothly when driving.

Mind you this is just a W.A.G. from a poor memory trying to remember a problem that reulted from a carb rebuild that happened 15 or 16 years ago. So please don't take it as a fact.

[SeriesShorty]

Thanks TeriAnn, that sounds like it could be a little part of my problem. Anyone know of a fix or a suitable replacement spring with the same rating?

[Jim-ME]

If it is the spring tension that is causing your problem and it is because the spring holds the ball in place too tightly; try cutting up to a coil off the spring. That what is done with some pistols to lighten up the trigger.
Jim

[SeriesShorty]

Thanks Jim, I'll try cutting the spring down a coil to see if that helps.

Any other ideas on common things that could have possibly gone wrong during the rebuild or the installation that might cause really poor idling and running? I'm probably gonna take it off tomorrow and have another looksie inside to see if I've missed something.

I dread the idea of needing to put the Weber back on. :nono: