Recently had some work on my Series II (with generator/voltage regulator/positive earth- original setup). I noticed the ammeter pegged at the top of the gauge while running. After running for a while the ammeter returned to the neutral location and the charge light came on- and remains on now as soon as the key is turned to the on position prior to starting- and regardless of engine speed when running. I noticed the mechanic had swapped the yellow and yellow/green wires at the voltage regulator. I reconnected the voltage regulator according to the wiring schematic in my rover manual. Now the ammeter seems to work (remains in the neutral position- then dips down when electrical accessories are turned on, etc) but the charge light won't go out. In addition the generator is making a slight whistling noise as if the bearing is worn (not sure if this is a related issue- but it occurred in conjunction with the charge light issue). The voltage regulator and wiring harness are brand new- and the generator is a newly rebuilt unit. Wondering if the wiring mistake fried the regulator or generator? Any ideas/help/wisdom would be appreciated.
charge light on all the time
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I doubt your gen or reg is "fried". Sounds like a common grounding issue that can happen , specially when getting mixed up with the pos. ground system. Use a multimeter to check voltage output at the gen. Then use it to check continuity on the lines in question.94 D-90 tdi
72 Series IIIComment
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thanks folks. Will check voltage at the gen and if that's good start going through system. I was incorrect when I mentioned it was positive ground- realized it has been converted to negative earth (battery neg goes to ground strap, ign coil wires reversed, ammeter wires reversed, etc). Spoke w/mechanic this am- he's rush shipping a new generator for the weekend in case it is fried; nice guy- he knows he made a mistake and is taking action to correct....not something you'd typically experience at the Toyota dealer!1960 Series II SWB
1994 NAS D90 ST
1963 SIIa SWB (sold)
1971 SIIa SWB (sold)
2000 Disco SII (sold)
1995 RR Classic (sold)Comment
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Polarize
If I remeber correctly (its been about 10 years) when I put in my new generator, I had to poalrize it. It came with a little sheet of paper that told me how to do it.
You had to tell it to be positive or negative ground.
I think you had to touch one of the terminals to the positive post for certain amount of time (30 seconds or so)
Can anyone else refresh me/ or him on this?
Thanks-
ToddTodd
66 IIA 88"
93 Porsche 968 variocam 6spd
50 Ford 8NComment
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Well thanks for the replies folks. Turns out the generator was blown- that's what happens when you swap the yellow and yellow/green wires at the voltage regulator! Replaced with new generator from host and all is well. Only issue now is the generator doesn't appear to be a Lucas- either that or it has a different design. One of the leads is on the top of the generator now (instead of both being behind) which places the wire about 2-3" away from the hot exhaust manifold. I can't see that connection being reliable for very long. Anyone have any experience with this new style? Hoping someone out there has a generator with the connection in the same location that has some miles on it & can report that the location isn't an issue.1960 Series II SWB
1994 NAS D90 ST
1963 SIIa SWB (sold)
1971 SIIa SWB (sold)
2000 Disco SII (sold)
1995 RR Classic (sold)Comment
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Not sure- but a good thought. I would have to dismantle the back plate of the generator and rotate that 180 degrees to get the mounting points in their correct locations- will take a look and see if it's possible. Hopefully my concerns are unwarranted, the connector is far enough away from the header and I'm just being paranoid....1960 Series II SWB
1994 NAS D90 ST
1963 SIIa SWB (sold)
1971 SIIa SWB (sold)
2000 Disco SII (sold)
1995 RR Classic (sold)Comment
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