Dropped Fuel Gauge

[printjunky]

OK, I just read about 20 fuel gauge posts, hoping I wasn't the first. No such luck. Either that, or I am the first with the necessary pride-swallowing capabilities.

While cleaning up my gauges during a dash pull/wire sorting mission on my 74 SIII, I dropped my fuel gauge pod on the concrete shop floor. First, of course, it bounced to the deepest, darkest under-bench corner. Upon retrieval the needle was a bit tweaked. The slightest touch, and the dang thing popped right out! Nothing appears to be broken. And I had a slight sense of how it was seated in there, but can't get it back in place.

New fuel gauges are way too 'spensive to just go for a replacement. I'm fairly certain I can figure it out if someone has a pic/diagram/detailed description how the needle goes back onto it's little tab and what keeps it in tension. Is there any benefit; is it even possible to non-destructively get the face of the gauge off? What's holding it together. I couldn't tell.

[scott]

i was hoping someone would post an answer to your questions. i didn't drop mine but rather snagged the needle on the wiring mess behind the dash panel when putting it in (should have never taken it out). my needle is still in but it doesn't move, just jerks for a second when current is applied.

come on folks, ya gotta a couple of dudes here who don't want to drop a bunch of bucks to get an approximation of fuel level!

[thixon]

Dip stick in the tank, track your mileage, bring along a jerry can of gas...

Yeah, I know Scott. Right now your doing your dambdest to find my address so you can come kick my butt!

Seriously though, I got nothing short of sending it to Nisonger. If you're not dead set on going original, I can post up the setup I used. Just let me know.

Sorry.

[thixon]

Wait,

Maybe this well help?

http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_01.htm

See, sometimes it pays to have other brit cars! Its not exactly the same gauge, but you may gleen something from the photos.

[scott]

trav don't ever say your sorry when getting sarcastic with a flustered series owner making repairs. it's exactly what's needed. it helps me return to reality regarding what really matters. staying in the no rivit counting zone.

i filled both tanks, roved 100 miles (or as close to 100 that a 45 y/o odometer presents) and switch tanks. will top off and get a really rough guess a mpg and count on (insert serious laugh here) the odometer.

i found a simalar site that shows a wwii jeep fuel gauge rebuild. but our crappy gauges don't seem to be opennable (i sometime make my own parts so i can make up words). i can't believe the face is glued to the housing. who knew they even had glue back in the day.

[badvibes]

scott-

Call Harold. There is a guy in Alb who re-does gauges. Sorry for the hijack.

[Andrew IIA]

Seriously though, I got nothing short of sending it to Nisonger.

x2 on Nisonger for gauge repair. They fixed up mine a few years ago.

Here: http://www.nisonger.com/

[scott]

noisenger wants $100+, the gauge can be bought new for $75 (probably not oem)

i got the face off. the 2 hole in the tabs, backside, you can see 4 tiny little tabs coming through, straighten 'em and use a knife to pry the face off

[printjunky]

OK, let's try this. The needle's still loose from the gauge.

Here is a drawing of all the pertinent parts.

2137

The needle has a little tab behind it, with a slot in it, and the gauge has two little springy arms as drawn (the closeup of the wider arm is shown upside down to illustrate the hole in it).
Apparently, the needle somehow sits in, on, between - or something - those little arms.

I tried 3 or 4 configurations, couldn't see how it might go back together.

So does anyone know the configuration, or have a working gauge pod they're able to look into and advise?

[Nium]

A thought, connect it to the wires so you can see how the arms in the gauge move. Maybe it will help give you an idea how they move the needle and thus an idea of how to re seat the needle. If it is possible take out the float from the tank so you could move it up and down to see how the movement is translated to the springy arms.

Rovers Down South has a picture of the pod out maybe it'll help you out...
http://www.roversdownsouth.com/images/series-elect/FuelGauge555835.JPG

Another picture on LR Series web site...
http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/1284/555835-12-volt-FUEL-GAUGE.html?search=fuelgauge&page=1

[Nium]

Try threading the Z bend spring, on the left side by diagram, thru the slot on the needle so that the tab on the needle slot sits in the hole of the Z bend springy arm, left springy arm. The J bent springy arm on the right then would need to cradle the needle from underneath so move the J springy arm back move the needle above the J arm and seat into J arm. Just a guess.

[printjunky]

Belated thanks, Walker, you had it exactly right, but I couldn't visualize what you were saying well enough. Until now (duhn, duhn, duhn, dhuuuuhhhn).

I ended up buying a complete pod when one recently showed up on ebay. I used that as a model to fix my gauge. Took about 10 minutes with a couple of tiny screwdrivers. I'll eventually put the pod I bought back on ebay, get some of my money back.

Anyway, I'll just leave that last post as a great description of how it goes together, and I'll post these close-up photos I took.

[daveb]

i have one but it might be a few days before i can get to it.

dave


OK, let's try this. The needle's still loose from the gauge.

Here is a drawing of all the pertinent parts.

2137

The needle has a little tab behind it, with a slot in it, and the gauge has two little springy arms as drawn (the closeup of the wider arm is shown upside down to illustrate the hole in it).
Apparently, the needle somehow sits in, on, between - or something - those little arms.

I tried 3 or 4 configurations, couldn't see how it might go back together.

So does anyone know the configuration, or have a working gauge pod they're able to look into and advise?