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View Full Version : Raiko bush, etc.



rbonnett
09-10-2009, 09:59 AM
I'm going to start on the front hubs and swivels - getting ready to order parts. The primary goals are
- get rid of my locking hubs
- check and set the pre-load on the swivels.
Since I have to take most of things apart anyway, I'm going to do all the seals, have a look at the half-shaft, etc. A couple of questions:

- What should I be looking for to check on the condition of the Raiko bushes? Other than the obvious like huge gouges or chips. I'd like to not order new ones unless I need them.
- Since I will no longer have locking hubs, what are the pros and cons of converting from 90W to grease for the swivels? Hopefully I won't create any leaks, but I'm not clear on which way would be better.

Thanks

jcasteel
09-10-2009, 08:42 PM
Please keep us posted on progress, costs, parts, pictures. I need to do this too.

Great thought for a thread.

TedW
09-11-2009, 03:36 PM
Your king pins shouldn't be able to wiggle around in the railko bushes. If they do then the bushes are too worn and need replacing. I'd replace the kingpins at the same time.

Am I correct on this?? TA?? Bertha?? MSGunny??

I Leak Oil
09-11-2009, 04:55 PM
The only things you really need to check on the railco bushings is the pre-load and make sure there is no movement. To check for movement, jack up the wheel, grab it top and bottom and push/pull the wheel. If you can feel movement then there is wear in the joint. The manual explains how to check the pre-load. If those are good you shouldn't have to do anything to them.
As for losing the locking hubs and using grease...We don't really need to go there as it always turns into a useless debate where everyone thinks their single experience with one or the other is gospel. Search and you'll find all kinds of opinion on each. You can make your own decision from there.

rbonnett
09-11-2009, 07:13 PM
Thanks. Checking the pre load is one of my main goals; removing the locking hubs is the other. I don't know if I can get the seals off the swivels without damage, so I'm getting gaskets, etc. in case I have to ake things apart to put new ones on.

having read several debates about grease versus 90w, I'm going to stick with the oil.

Tim Smith
09-13-2009, 08:34 PM
Looks like a good thread coming.

I've started using Lucas hub oil in the swivels. Had very good experience with Lucas oils in the past but I don't have any input for this application yet.

kevkon
09-13-2009, 08:56 PM
You may be interested in this; http://www.modernoils.com/g2457GearOilWhitePaper.pdf

Tim Smith
09-13-2009, 09:29 PM
You may be interested in this; http://www.modernoils.com/g2457GearOilWhitePaper.pdfOh my goodness! :eek:

Scratch my approval of Lucas oil. I guess quieter gears aren't necessarily happier gears. :(

gudjeon
09-13-2009, 09:34 PM
Good reading that^^^^. Choice of oily stuff aside, I went without hubs on my current Rover and my previous one had them. The differences I have noticed - one. When it is really cold out, there is less initial rolling resistance. As for saving wear, none. Bearings and ujoints are so large compared to modern motors, the advantages of hubs are not there in terms of saving wear and tear. I still get decent fuel economy ~20-24 gasoline mpg on the highway.

I would spend the money on something else first before I ever buy hubs again. If they work for you, great:thumb-up:.