Slow clutch

[Rover 67]

I have a series 2a. The clutch pedal is slow to come up making changing gears slow and next to impossible. It works for about fifteen minutes and then fails to go into third gear (second has not worked for about twenty-five years unless you double clutch). Any ideas? Thanks rover 67

[Nium]

1st and 2nd gear aren't synchronized you will always have to double clutch for them.

What year Landy is it? Is it an 88" or 109"? What type of clutch master cylinder do you have? Petrol or diesel? Did the slow pedal return issue just start or has it been going on for awhile? Is the return spring on the pedal missing? Any fluid leakage?

Welcome aboard!:D
Cheers!

[Rover 67]

I didn't know about the second gear and the double clutch. My Rover is the short body and gas. The clutch has slowed over the years, but the slow reaction has just become a major problem. thanks, Rover 67

[Daurie]

So the pedal gets to a point where once it's pressed down it slowly creeps back up? Thats strange. I'd figure the return spriing would pull it right back. I'm sure someone will chime in but I would check the return spring (as said) and also make sure the system is bled. You didn't mention any leaks, are thee any? Fluid on the pedal arm or fluid under the... well nevermind that.

[Rover 67]

What is bleading clutch. Is this something that I can do? Thanks, Rover 67

[east high]

The clutch is a hydraulic setup (like your brakes). Stepping on the pedal sends hydraulic fluid from a master reservoir to a slave cylinder which pushes on the clutch fork arm which disengages the clutch. Over the years seals deteriorate and fluid leaks out and air sneaks in resulting in a spongy unresponsive pedal.

Bleeding a clutch means removing all the air from the system so that the pedal action is stiff and responsive. I've never bled the clutch, but basically you'll need to get someone to pump the clutch pedal and you would be at the slave cylinder to open the bleeder valve just enough to let the air bubbles out. You might consider rebuilding the cylinder just for peace of mind while you're down there.

[Nium]

Rover 67,
Have you checked that the pedal return spring is still attached? You should be able to see it if you crouch down next to the door and look up at where the pedal shaft goes through the toe box? There is either a spring coming straight off the pedal shaft attached to a bolt on the inside of the toe box or a spring attached to the pedal shaft going up with the pedal shaft through the toe box.

Do you have a manual?

[Sputnicker]

I can think of 5 things that could cause a clutch pedal to return slowly:

1) Weak or broken pedal return spring.
2) Seizing of the shaft/bushings where the pedal pivots.
3) Flex hose breaking down and acting like a check valve
4) Slave cylinder failing - piston sticking in the bore
5) Master cylinder failing - piston sticking in the bore

If the spring is broken it will be obvious. If the pivot is seized you should be able to feel it and lubrication will likely fix it, or at least improve it (should be part of your maintenance ritual anyway). If you still aren't sure, disconnect the pedal from the master cylinder pushrod and see if the pedal swings freely and returns to the top. If you don't find anything there, then it's in the hydraulics (3,4 and/or 5 above). If you've been driving your Rover for 25 years and never touched the clutch hydraulics, it's a miracle and you are blessed - and due. I would do the master, slave and new hose at the same time. Take apart both cylinders and look for wear and pitting in the bores. If they are nice and smooth you can rebuild them. If they are worn or pitted, replace the cylinders.

[Rover 67]

I did take the 67 series 2a to a good repair shop. the tech estimated that the clutch needed a new master cylinder, slave cylinder clutch and a clutch kit assemby. The labor for doing this would be about 3,000.00. They said that you would have to drop the engine to get to these items. I think that this is a bit more than I had in mind.

Is this right? Can these be replaced without dropping the engine?

[Nium]

Easiest way to fix something when you don't know what's broken is to replace everything involved with that system.

Anyone on this forum is happy to help you out but when you don't respond to any post made in response to your queries then it seems you don't want any help.

Best of luck at the repair shop.

Happy Rovering!

[LaneRover]

You have to drop the trannie to replace the clutch

You do not have to drop the trannie to replace either the master or slave cylinder that operate the clutch. If you don't want to do the work, have the shop replace the master and slave cylinder and see if that does it, if not only then should you replace the clutch.

Brent

[Nium]

Rover 67 sent me this Private Message (PM) which I feel is better posted
so that if anyone has some ideas on how to help out they know where Rover 67 is at...


I just figured out that green dot--sorry that I didn't reply. First thanks for your interest and help.

yes I think that they are repairing everything and hoping that it fixes the problem as well as their balance sheets.

Needless to say, I picked the Rover up today with many smiling thanks and it is home and awaiting the next move.

I am not a mechanic but will attempt a look beyond the spring which I see and it seems to work. Will keep in touch and thanks,

Rover 67 what I meant was that you should click on the "Post Reply" button in the upper left corner of the screen in the thread you are reading to respond to someone that has posted a response to a question you have asked. That way any one looking at the thread can read what your response is and help to guide you on what your next course of action should be or what a good diagnostic step might be.

The green dot means that person is currently logged on. No green dot that person is logged off.

Did you have the repair shop fix it or no? I was unsure by your PM.

[Rover 67]

no, I have the Land Rover back at home, not in the shop.

[Nium]

Try lubricating the shaft for the pedal and the trunnion for the pedal. They are the two big pins at the top of the pedal assembly. The one is the hinge for the pedal and the other is where the shaft from the clutch master cylinder is connected to the pedal. When these get dry and start to bind it can make the clutch pedal slow to return.

[Rover 67]

I will try to lubricate these --have ordered the manuals thanks Rover 67

[Nium]

Rover 67,
Look in the thread "Clutch Pedal Box" posted by JackIIA...
http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7710
there is a schematic of the Clutch pedal assembly and two pictures of a removed clutch pedal box. You are going to want to lubricate part #22 (shaft for pedal) and part #23 (trunnion for pedal) in the schematic diagram. There is a little bolt in one end of part #22 (shaft for pedal) that you can remove to fill with oil that will lubricate the shaft for pedal, but that it is fairly impossible to fill without removing the pedal box from the toebox first. Try spraying with WD-40 or white lithium grease and working it the lube in by pumping the pedal.

[Rover 67]

Thanks, I saw the photos and it makes more sense. I will use a bit of R D 40 but I think that my old mechanic probably used a can or two already.