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View Full Version : Step by Step Graphic Instructions to Changing Clutch Master Cylinder



amcordo
09-23-2009, 08:38 AM
Questions about a leaking clutch MC and changing it are so common on here I thought I would ask if anyone had ever put an online pictoral instruction manual for doing it. My Haynes manual leaves something to be desired and though there are a ton of posts with instructions none of them really tell much without pictures (IMO).

If not I'll replace this over the weekend with one of my own. Being that this will be my first time doing it I'm sure it'll be amusing.

graniterover
09-23-2009, 11:01 AM
It's really easy to do, maybe that's why there are no further instructions. Rusty bolts are going to be your biggest issue. Check the line coming out of the mc before you start - it sometimes rusts where it screws into the mc. Might want to order that in advance if it's rusty. The fitting is soft so it's easy to strip. Adjust the clutch with the wing still off. I usually take a drive with it to test.

If you take your time it will be very easy.

Mark


Questions about a leaking clutch MC and changing it are so common on here I thought I would ask if anyone had ever put an online pictoral instruction manual for doing it. My Haynes manual leaves something to be desired and though there are a ton of posts with instructions none of them really tell much without pictures (IMO).

If not I'll replace this over the weekend with one of my own. Being that this will be my first time doing it I'm sure it'll be amusing.

Nium
09-23-2009, 11:32 AM
When removing the hydraulic lines, either brake or clutch, only use a flare wrench on the pipe fittings. They look like this...
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00978967000P?keyword=wrench+brake+li ne

That will keep from rounding off the flare fitting for the lines. I'm not sure of the size you'll need but you can use an open-end wrench to gauge the correct size then use that to get the correct size flare wrench. Metric maybe a better fit then SAE.

It is possible to perform the MC removal/refit with the wing in place but is sooooo much easier if you remove the wing. Take pictures of everything before hand so you have a reference if you forget how it goes back together.

amcordo
09-25-2009, 07:05 PM
Ok, so for starts I'm posting this on my blackberry. Taking the old MC out and swapping was easy. BUT I'm stuck now. I need to bleed the slave but it is extremely difficult to get to from above and pretty much impossible from below. I can't even see the bleeder, but I can just barely reach it (I think, since I can't see what I'm reaching). Imagine you're in my situation - can you walk me through removing a dust cap and bleeding it? Is there another way to access in aside from below and from the engine bay (my V8 makes reaching it HARD)? Thank you!

LaneRover
09-25-2009, 07:34 PM
Have you tried taking out the righthand side floor boards?

Also taking out the piece that goes between the transmission cover and the bulkhead might give you better access.

It is a tight squeeze and I know of Rover folk who have cut down a wrench so that they could get it in there.

Brent