Clutch Slave Cylinder: I need help!

[NC Rover]

So I removed the old line going into the clutch slave with no problems, unbolted the two bolts holding the cylinder in ....removed it slowly. Metal plunger came out fine....but then the metal plunger just fell out of the transmission bell housing. Hmm...that doesn't seem right.

Upon closer inspection.... I noticed the plastic tab that the metal plunger goes through only had one little plastic arm. I believe it may have had two at one point to keep it from falling out of the bellhousing. With that said, I proceeded to install the new slave anyway after lining the plunger up and re-setting the plastic tab with only its one arm through the squarish ovalish hole it is suppose to reside in...inside the bellhousing.

Proceeded to install new cylinder. Got it bolted up, lined up and screwed in the line. Bled it out really good until there were absolutely no air bubbles coming out of the slave. Now the shifter shifts between gears without being stuck....only problem is that the clutch is super super soft now....I can push it to the floor with one finger....my gut is telling me that is not right. I had my wife in there pumping the clutch while I was underneath inspecting to see if air was coming out....nope. Pure fluid.

So with that said, I have not had a chance to crank the rover up yet....but cranking it up wouldn't have anything to do with a super soft clutch right? Maybe my old slave was so worn out that I was used to pushing really hard to disengage the clutch.

Tranny is LT77 and Transfer case is LT230....2.5L Milspec engine.

Thoughts? Ideas?

[NC Rover]

I guess I should have said "pushrod" rather than "metal plunger" but you get the idea. The pushrod that fell out of the bellhousing looks similiar to this....only it has a square plastic tab with a hole in the middle where the pushrod goes through. The tab lays against the swivel ball on the end of the rod and clings to a metal piece inside the bellhousing which keeps it from falling out of the bell housing...anyone?

http://how-to-build-a-pilgrim-sumo.wdfiles.com/local--files/clutch/partslavefull.JPG

[NC Rover]

Also when people mention that it may not be the slave...but its probably "the pivot ball going through the fork" ....are they talking about the pivot ball on the push rod going through the metal pad inside slave hole...inside the bell housing? If so, I was able to use a mirror and the metal fork is fine...no signs of wear and tear. I just need a new plastic clip to keep the pushrod inside the bellhousing.

I was also told to install the clutch slave with the bleed nipple on top. Unfortunatly the previous owner had it situated with the bleed nipple on the bottom......the fluid line is not long enough to flip the slave over as it would not reach to the bottom. So how do I get around this one?....how do you get all the air out if the bleed nipple is on the bottom? Someone mentioned they had heard of "putting the bleed nipple to the bottom and using a windscreen washer pump to back fill the clutch from the bottom" ....would that work?

[scott]

i bleed my clutch like i do my brakes, i run a clear plastic tube from the bleeder to the resivoir. open the bleeder and pump for a beer or two. no second pair hands needed. air will make its way to the rezi where it just floats up and away. and with the clear tubing i can watch the bubbles go by.

sorry i'm no help with that little plastic thing. heck i don't think my 11a has any plastic on it.

[pisten-bully]

Tranny is LT77 and Transfer case is LT230....2.5L Milspec engine.

Thoughts? Ideas?

If I were you I'd post on the Defender forum... you're not getting much help, and I think that's because your LT77 is unfamiliar to many Series folks (me included!)

[Nium]

Keep the slave attached to the line. Remove slave from bracket. Hold slave upright and bleed. Reinstall slave.

Or

Buy a longer line so you can install slave with bleed nipple up since you will never be able to bleed out air with bleed nipple on bottom.

Cheers